,

CLIMBING ACCESS CLOSED AT NEVERLAND EFFECTIVELY IMMEDIATELY

The property owner for the road accessing, and land surrounding, Neverland in Musquodoboit, has contacted us to communicate that ALL public access on that property, including for climbing, is closed immediately.

We ask that you respect the land owners wishes and not return to Neverland. We realize this is disappointing for some of you but we need to respect the landowner and not return. Please tell anyone who you think might be interested in Neverland as this closure is effective immediately.

Thank you.

As the climbing community grows, we must manage our impact and presence at other crags/trails on privately owned land. At the rest of our crags, please respect parking, road access, trail access, and of course, maintain strict Leave No Trace principles. Car pool when possible to reduce traffic at parking, and if a crag seems full, please climb somewhere else. Our use of outdoor crags is fully dependent on the climbing community maintaining excellent relationships with all stakeholders, including property owners, government and the general public. Please do your part.

, , , , ,

Crow’s Nest Clean and Climb – October 29 2016

Come scrub Crow’s Nest on Saturday, October 29! It’s the best cliff in Nova Scotia and you’ve never been there. But CNS volunteers have been busy this season equipping this hard-to-reach gem with titanium anchors that will withstand the harsh marine climate in the 21st century and beyond!Crow Nest Topo

There are 15 established routes at Crow’s Nest, with another 10 obvious lines just waiting to be cleaned, equipped, and climbed. CNS is making arrangements with local fishers for a boat departing the Government Wharf in Terence Bay on Saturday morning at 9:30am, returning to the mainland at 6:30pm. A second boat will return on Sunday afternoon at 2pm for folks who would like to stay overnight. Parking is available in a lot right next to the wharf.

The event is free for CNS members, and you can become a member or renew your membership for just $20 for two years by clicking here. RSVP to climbnovascotia@gmail.com if you plan on attending.

CNS will provide:

  • Anchor material and static lines
  • Brushes
  • Goggles
  • Dust masks
  • Work gloves
  • Grigris (on request)
  • Ascenders (on request)
  • Helmets (on request)
  • Coffee, tea, & snacks

You must bring:

  • Common sense
  • Harness
  • Climbing shoes
  • Chalk
  • Water
  • Warm jacket
  • Warm hat

If you have the following, you should bring those with you:

  • Work gloves
  • Helmet
  • Grigri
  • Ascender
  • Climbing rope

It’s going to be awesome!

, , ,

Erosion prevention in the LOC

Climb Nova Scotia volunteers recently installed erosion prevention measures to protect ecologically sensitive marshland in the popular Land of Confusion bouldering area. Two hundred feet of raised boardwalk now span the sphagnum bog on the approach to Memorial boulder.

New boardwalk to Memorial et al.

New boardwalk to Memorial et al.

This infrastructure prevents erosion and protects flora such as the beautiful pitcher plant from damage caused by foot traffic.

Sarracenia purpurea, the "Soldier's Drinking Cup", is a delicate carnivorous plant found throughout the LOC

Sarracenia purpurea, the “Soldier’s Drinking Cup”, is a delicate carnivorous plant found throughout the LOC

As an added bonus, the new boardwalk will keep your feet dry. Note that this trail is used to access not only the Memorial boulder, but also Skillz Inventory, Eggs, River Styx, Trailside, and Godzilla boulders, as well as the Bug City sport climbing crag!

If you have never tried the five star classic lines of Godzilla (V0), 111 (V3), Persephone (v4), Loose Shoes (v5), and Check Out My Blog (5.11c), there’s never been a better time to go check em out!

, ,

Fire ban at Main Face

Please do not make fires when visiting or camping out at Main Face, remember to pack out everything you brought in with you, and pick up any trash you find.

No fires allowed at Main Face!

No fires allowed at Main Face!

Climb Nova Scotia was approached by one of the property owners who is concerned with the risk of forest fire on his land due to our dry weather this season. While he is generously allowing climbing to continue and is happy with the respectful way climbers use his property, he has requested that a total fire ban is implemented effective immediately.

CNS will be installing NO FIRE signs this season, so please pass the word around that fires are not permitted at Main Face. Help us maintain positive relationships with landowners and preserve climbing access at this amazing Nova Scotia destination!

, ,

DNR Public Consultation on Sunday Hunting

Climbers know that many of our favorite climbing areas are frequented by hunters, and that hunting season overlaps with the best conditions for climbing. The Nova Scotia Department of Natural Resources is considering lifting the ban that prohibits Sunday hunting. Please click here and take 60 seconds to complete this survey to tell the province if you believe that hunting should continue to be prohibited one day a week.

Hunters and non-hunters alike may enjoy world renowned ice climber Will Gadd’s insightful article on hunting. As well a recent article in the Chronicle Herald discusses recent events is wildlife management within the province. The Department of Natural Resources wants to know how you feel about lifting the ban Sunday hunting so you should tell them. It is likely many hunters will speak up in favor of this change, so if you enjoy one day a week during the fall when you can go climbing without hunting allowed, you may want to chime in on this proposal.

Clean and Climb – Operation Mainface

Climb Nova Scotia’s annual Clean and Climb took place at Mainface this year. Mainface, our largest and tallest crag, had fallen back to nature over the last few years as young whippersnapper crags like GSpot, Sorrows End and Columbus Wall started getting more attention. Like all fads, however, what’s old is new again and Mainface is what’s hot for 2014.

Our dedicated team of almost 20 volunteers led the charge with two days of scrubbing, shovelling, chain sawing and trundling. We were able to clear an accumulation of dead fall from the cliffside path and rescue at least ten separate lines from obscurity. A grizzled veteran of the the NS climbing scene even said it was ‘our most successful clean and climb ever.’ Here’s a list of the weekend’s activity:

Cleaning:

  • Upper North Buttress
  • Attack of the Killer Hummingbird
  • Main Line (top two pitches)
  • Blind Man’s Bluff
  • Banjo Crack
  • Conan
  • The Lost Hurrah
  • Point of View
  • Skinny Dipping
  • Chimney

Bolting***:

  • Chain anchors added to the Meat Grinder Rappel
  • Chain anchors added to the top of Up Over Down Under and Slipline
  • Second bolt and ring were added to the existing single ring on the Lunch Bucket Ledge
  • Anchors for Deep Throat were relocated to the top of the cliff and a suspicious bolt was removed from the previous top anchor
  • At least three new sport lines were bolted (more details to come in a separate post)

What this means for you is that a large number of moderate, enjoyable routes are now much more accessible so let’s everyone dust off our cams, nuts and draws and get on some of the fantastic climbing at Mainface!

 

Mark Maasy - getting dirty to get clean

Mark Maasy – getting dirty to get clean (photo: Todd Foster)

 

Many thanks to our volunteers for making this such a successful event and to our sponsors The Trail Shop and Highland Drive Storehouse for keeping us well-supplied and rolling in sausages throughout the weekend.

 

***Disclaimer: CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. Fixed hardware is to be used at your own risk. Climb Nova Scotia and its volunteers accept no responsibility and make no assurances about the quality or reliability of any anchors or fixed gear. Please do not toprope through fixed anchors. If you aren’t sure how to rig a safe anchor, don’t do it. Don’t let someone rig anchors for you if there is any question of their competence. Read John Long’s “Climbing Anchors 2nd Edition”, practice at home, ask questions, and understand the limitations of your equipment.CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. ACCIDENTS HAPPEN AND YOU COULD DIE OR KILL SOMEONE ELSE. GRAVITY IS UNFORGIVING.

 

, , ,

Bolts on bolts

Climb Nova Scotia made a major purchase of hardware this year. Thanks to amazing one-time prices offered by MEC and Grand Wall Equipment via the Trail Shop we’ve got a nice supply of bolts and hangers for the next few seasons. We anticipate continuing to support a core group of long-time developers as they selflessly bring us more rad new routes year after year.

Vintage angle-iron bolt at Main Face Photo by Todd Foster

Vintage angle-iron bolt at Main Face
Photo by Todd Foster

As well, CNS is refitting classic routes with modern, safe hardware and continuing our efforts to standardize anchors across the province by installing rappel rings to replace many tree anchors. This ethic is standard around the world at many popular climbing destinations and is endorsed by Climb Nova Scotia as the best way to minimize long-term impacts of successive generations of climbers.

Three sets of stainless steel rappel ring anchors were installed at First Face in May 2014. They are located at the top of Black Diamond on the far right of the cliff, above the ledge for Mea Culpa/LA/Slave to Fashion in the center, and at the top of Anniversary Waltz on the far left. These new anchors allow safe and convenient rappels with easy pulls.

New development continues at the GSpot sport crag and an update to the now-outdated 2010 topo is forthcoming this season. Get out there and try the new lines!

In tandem with these projects, trail maintenance remains a priority for us as a method to reduce erosion and confine our impacts to a smaller area around the crags. If you want to help with any of these initiatives feel free to contact us at climbnovascotia@gmail.com

Disclaimer: CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. Fixed hardware is to be used at your own risk. Climb Nova Scotia and its volunteers accept no responsibility and make no assurances about the quality or reliability of any anchors or fixed gear. Please do not toprope through fixed anchors. If you aren’t sure how to rig a safe anchor, don’t do it. Don’t let someone rig anchors for you if there is any question of their competence. Read John Long’s “Climbing Anchors 2nd Edition”, practice at home, ask questions, and understand the limitations of your equipment. CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. ACCIDENTS HAPPEN AND YOU COULD DIE OR KILL SOMEONE ELSE. GRAVITY IS UNFORGIVING.

, , , , ,

Main Face Clean and Climb – June 21-22 2014

Climb Nova Scotia will be holding a Clean and Climb event at Main Face on the Summer Solstice weekend.  We have rented the cabin from 10:30am Saturday, June 21st to Sunday, June 22nd and we want YOU to come on out and lend a hand.

RSVP to climbnovascotia@gmail.com if you are planning on attending so we have an idea how many folks will be there. Come for an afternoon or bring a tent and stay the whole weekend. CNS will rig fixed lines for scrubbing and have limited brushes and personal protective gear available (so please bring your own work gloves, wire brushes, eye protection, and helmets if you have them).

 

With your help, some Main Face line could get cleaned and climbed! (Photo by Roger Fage, used without permission from https://sponsormeow.wordpress.com - Gavin on 3D at Columbus Wall)

With your help, one of Main Face’s forgotten gems could get cleaned and climbed! (Photo by Roger Fage, used without permission – Gavin on 3D at Columbus Wall)

Like many other rope climbing areas in Nova Scotia, Main Face ‘s classic lines see enough traffic to keep them clean, while other routes need a helping hand every few years. Come discover your new favorite route and tidy it up so other folks will climb it and keep it clean. Crusty trad climber volunteers will be on hand to help you navigate the cliff. Many hands make light work, so the more the merrier. There might even be time for climbing our freshly cleaned lines afterward!

 

,

CNS log book at GSpot

Nova Scotia’s newest and most popular climbing area, the GSpot sport crag in Musquodoboit, has been many climbers’ first introduction to outdoor rope routes over the last few years. Climb Nova Scotia wants to know more about how this crag is being used and by whom. Help us help you by signing in each and every time you visit the crag.

CNS logbook under Totally Industrial at Gspot. Please sign in!

CNS logbook under Totally Industrial at Gspot. Please sign in!

We have installed a sign-in book at the bottom of Totally Industrial at the top of the main trail in to the crag. Please take a few moments to sign in with your name, the date, and your projects for the day. Feel free to leave us some comments as well and let us know what you think of the GSpot!