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Crow’s Nest Clean and Climb – October 29 2016

Come scrub Crow’s Nest on Saturday, October 29! It’s the best cliff in Nova Scotia and you’ve never been there. But CNS volunteers have been busy this season equipping this hard-to-reach gem with titanium anchors that will withstand the harsh marine climate in the 21st century and beyond!Crow Nest Topo

There are 15 established routes at Crow’s Nest, with another 10 obvious lines just waiting to be cleaned, equipped, and climbed. CNS is making arrangements with local fishers for a boat departing the Government Wharf in Terence Bay on Saturday morning at 9:30am, returning to the mainland at 6:30pm. A second boat will return on Sunday afternoon at 2pm for folks who would like to stay overnight. Parking is available in a lot right next to the wharf.

The event is free for CNS members, and you can become a member or renew your membership for just $20 for two years by clicking here. RSVP to climbnovascotia@gmail.com if you plan on attending.

CNS will provide:

  • Anchor material and static lines
  • Brushes
  • Goggles
  • Dust masks
  • Work gloves
  • Grigris (on request)
  • Ascenders (on request)
  • Helmets (on request)
  • Coffee, tea, & snacks

You must bring:

  • Common sense
  • Harness
  • Climbing shoes
  • Chalk
  • Water
  • Warm jacket
  • Warm hat

If you have the following, you should bring those with you:

  • Work gloves
  • Helmet
  • Grigri
  • Ascender
  • Climbing rope

It’s going to be awesome!

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Bolts on bolts

Climb Nova Scotia made a major purchase of hardware this year. Thanks to amazing one-time prices offered by MEC and Grand Wall Equipment via the Trail Shop we’ve got a nice supply of bolts and hangers for the next few seasons. We anticipate continuing to support a core group of long-time developers as they selflessly bring us more rad new routes year after year.

Vintage angle-iron bolt at Main Face Photo by Todd Foster

Vintage angle-iron bolt at Main Face
Photo by Todd Foster

As well, CNS is refitting classic routes with modern, safe hardware and continuing our efforts to standardize anchors across the province by installing rappel rings to replace many tree anchors. This ethic is standard around the world at many popular climbing destinations and is endorsed by Climb Nova Scotia as the best way to minimize long-term impacts of successive generations of climbers.

Three sets of stainless steel rappel ring anchors were installed at First Face in May 2014. They are located at the top of Black Diamond on the far right of the cliff, above the ledge for Mea Culpa/LA/Slave to Fashion in the center, and at the top of Anniversary Waltz on the far left. These new anchors allow safe and convenient rappels with easy pulls.

New development continues at the GSpot sport crag and an update to the now-outdated 2010 topo is forthcoming this season. Get out there and try the new lines!

In tandem with these projects, trail maintenance remains a priority for us as a method to reduce erosion and confine our impacts to a smaller area around the crags. If you want to help with any of these initiatives feel free to contact us at climbnovascotia@gmail.com

Disclaimer: CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. Fixed hardware is to be used at your own risk. Climb Nova Scotia and its volunteers accept no responsibility and make no assurances about the quality or reliability of any anchors or fixed gear. Please do not toprope through fixed anchors. If you aren’t sure how to rig a safe anchor, don’t do it. Don’t let someone rig anchors for you if there is any question of their competence. Read John Long’s “Climbing Anchors 2nd Edition”, practice at home, ask questions, and understand the limitations of your equipment. CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. ACCIDENTS HAPPEN AND YOU COULD DIE OR KILL SOMEONE ELSE. GRAVITY IS UNFORGIVING.

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Main Face Clean and Climb – June 21-22 2014

Climb Nova Scotia will be holding a Clean and Climb event at Main Face on the Summer Solstice weekend.  We have rented the cabin from 10:30am Saturday, June 21st to Sunday, June 22nd and we want YOU to come on out and lend a hand.

RSVP to climbnovascotia@gmail.com if you are planning on attending so we have an idea how many folks will be there. Come for an afternoon or bring a tent and stay the whole weekend. CNS will rig fixed lines for scrubbing and have limited brushes and personal protective gear available (so please bring your own work gloves, wire brushes, eye protection, and helmets if you have them).


With your help, some Main Face line could get cleaned and climbed! (Photo by Roger Fage, used without permission from https://sponsormeow.wordpress.com - Gavin on 3D at Columbus Wall)

With your help, one of Main Face’s forgotten gems could get cleaned and climbed! (Photo by Roger Fage, used without permission – Gavin on 3D at Columbus Wall)

Like many other rope climbing areas in Nova Scotia, Main Face ‘s classic lines see enough traffic to keep them clean, while other routes need a helping hand every few years. Come discover your new favorite route and tidy it up so other folks will climb it and keep it clean. Crusty trad climber volunteers will be on hand to help you navigate the cliff. Many hands make light work, so the more the merrier. There might even be time for climbing our freshly cleaned lines afterward!


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Toprope day recap

To save everyone from the onset of the winter blues, CNS thought that we’d remind you of a greener, brighter day from the summer when tank tops weren’t just for masochists and people could complain about too much sun and still be taken seriously.

On June 22, after more than few rain delays, 16 men and women came out to Sorrows End to get a day of rope climbing in without the hassle of lugging gear and setting anchors. Michelle Lloyd and a host of volunteers put on CNS Top Rope day to provide a safe, welcoming setting for people new (and old) to the sport of rope climbing to come out and try their hand at the fantastic cracks and face climbs at Sorrows End. Volunteers provided demonstrations on rope management, belay techniques and general safety awareness throughout the day to help everyone climb as safely as possible.

Sorrow's TR Day 2013, photo by Kerrie

Sorrow’s TR Day 2013, photo by Kerrie

The day was a rousing success. Everyone involved had a great time and the more experienced climbers had the pleasure of helping one of the participants get on their first ever climb on real rock, which is always fun to watch as it reminds the rest of us about why we were so excited to climb in the first place. Its experiences like these that help solidify Climb Nova Scotia’s reputation as being welcoming and inclusive to climbers of all experience levels.

Thanks again to Michelle Lloyd, all of the other volunteers and most importantly all of the climbers that came out and made it such a successful event!