Black Brook

Crag Description

Black Brook is a short but enticing granite crag located 20 km north of Ingonish, within the park boundary. Most lines here have been climbed (about ten) and have been documented in an unreleased mini-guide to the cliff written many years ago. Unfortunately, the details were not shared by the developers due to the possibility of an impending long term climbing ban within the park

How to get there

Drive north on the Cabot Trail 15-20 km past Ingonish. The cliff is easily visible up the hill on the west side of the road (~300′ off of the road). Drive past the cliff a short distance, turn right and park at the Black Brook Beach parking lot. Cross the road and follow a faint trail to the base of the cliff. For coastal exposures, stay on the ocean side of the road and follow the established hiking trail for about ten minutes. A short rappel may be necessary to reach a belay shelf below the cliffs. Careful of the thids.

Routes

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Right hand corner. 5.4 Climb obvious chiminey crack with awesome gear on funky big jugs.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Spring 2015
Grab obvious massive phallus and start climbing - bulges on blunt corner on good gear and surprise jugs to garden ledges then up nice clean double cracks to tree belay.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Matt Doherty, Aaron Richard
FA on:Spring 2015
Nice gear route up fractured line with small roof. Tree belay
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Spring 2015
Middle route left variation 5.9+ 10m - thin gear up seams to small roof then follow splitter crack to tree belay.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Spring 2015
Right variation 5.10+ 10m - up hand crack to thin section under roof on small cams. Plug gear under overhang - then left thru hidden jigs to splitter crack and tree belay.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Spring 2015
Bold moves up horizontal seams to shallow corner on jugs.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Spring 2015