Columbus Wall

Columbus Wall
Photo credit: Matt MacPhee

Crag Description

Columbus Wall is one of the few crags on the mainland that doesn’t rise out of a lake or ocean! In contrast to most areas, this crag is nestled in the forest and has a very comfortable, unexposed feel to it despite having at least one line approaching 30m in height. Its sheltered character means that not much wind gets here, so it’s hot in the middle of the summer and buggy during black fly season. Route development began around 1994 and was spearheaded by J.P. Brown and Danny Bernard. This is a good place for top-ropers as there are plenty of tree anchors available.

How to get there

To get to Columbus, drive out to Musquodoboit Harbour along Highway 107 (and then Highway 7); then turn left on Highway 357 heading up to Musquodoboit Valley. Pass the pull-off for Main Face (Paces Lake) at 4.8 km and the road to First Face at 6.1 km. Continue for 1.4 km to a gravel road on your left. There are actually two roads fairly close to each other that lead up steeply up the hill. Take the second one and park at the gate making sure not to block access.

From the gate, walk 15-20 minutes up the road until you see a very short rock face and a small rock cairn on the left-hand side (ten metres further the road crests a small hill). Take the trail through the raspberries and ferns behind the cairn on the left, and head into the woods. Bear right, following a short rock bluff which leads to the main cliff (5 minutes from the cairn). There is a short trail leading to the top of the cliff at this end.

Notes

  • this is private property – please respect the place and our privilege to climb here
  • logging vehicles and wide emergency response vehicles need to be able to drive through the date – do not block it
  • if the gate is open, don’t drive in, you will surely be locked in

Routes

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A short route to the right of "A Quick One" down at the heavy petter wall. Large dyno at the finish
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Shawn Smith, Jack Bennet
FA on:31/08/2015
Start as for Alpamayo, at ledge continue straight up weakness on gear to horizontal (5.9). Climb huge granite tufa past a bolt to jug rest. Clip here and make compression moves on pinches, gain sidepull and stance for final bolt, step high (crux) and toss for jug at the lip.
Type:Mixed
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Mick Levin, Sarah Gutowsky
FA on:17/10/2015
A nice easy romp at the far left end of the crag, following a crackline.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:G
FA by:Barb Stary
FA on:October, 1999
Start one metre right of First Steps, climb slabby face up to a bolt. Then up and right past a small roof to gain the buttress on the right. Fun laybacking up the arete to reach the anchors. A cleansing experience.
Type:Mixed
Height:7m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:August 2002
Slap on the butter and climb the difficult slab past three bolts and an overlap to reach the anchor. (Starts four metres right of First Steps in front of a maple tree. A little dirty on the bottom.)
Type:Sport
Height:7m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:September 2002
Climb the horizontals, face and vertical crack just right of a tree-filled mossy corner. Start by a tree stump. Gear protects the starting moves and the top-out crack. Good line.
Type:Mixed
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:August 2002
Climbs the left side of a white face past two bolts to reach a thin crack high up on the wall.
Type:Mixed
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:Becky Craig
FA on:September 17, 2000
This route catches a lot of sun, but even when cloudy, it's still hot and heavy. Climb past two bolts to reach a vertical crack leading to the large tree up top. Great climb.
Type:Mixed
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Jonathan Graham
FA on:September 14, 2000