Dover Island

Topography Information

Crag Description

Dover Island (or Taylor Island as it appears on some maps) is more of a bouldering destination than a climbing mecca, but it does offer a handful of short, but high quality, roped climbs. Located at the mouth of West Dover’s harbour, the climbing consists of two short granite cliffs (approx. ten metres high) with about fifteen trad lines from 5.7 to 5.11. The granite is very coarse here and is quite reminiscent of Joshua Tree monzonite. One of the best features of the place is the sandy belay area at the base of the main cliff.

Routes

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Climb the left-arching hand crack to a corner and finish on the vertical crack directly above.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:Summer 2000
Start as for The Egg. From the corner half-way up, traverse right along a thin dyke to the right side of a roof. Top out here. Very nice.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:Summer 2000
The second coming of Grovel. Start in a pair of shallow dihedrals which quickly lead into a wider crack/flake system. Continue up this feature, just left of an orange wall.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:Summer 2000
Climb up to a small roof or "pod" at three metres height. Put your gloves on and move left to gain flakes (crux) and a tight dihedral which leads to a small roof. Exit left through the roof. Spectacular line and powerful crux. Feels like a much longer route than it is.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:September 2, 2000
Start as for Fight Club. Exit the "pod" on the right via a large flake. Fun line.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Becky Craig
FA on:Summer 2000
This is it Kenny. Climb the steep crackline that curves right and then back left to gain a triangular alcove near the top.
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:July 13, 2002
The straight ahead hand crack at the right side of the main cliff. Sharp and a bit awkward. If cracks could talk, this is what it would say after finishing with your hands: "chewy!"
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:G
FA by:Jonathan Graham
FA on:Summer 2000
The enticing vertical hand crack on the second cliff. The route is so good it will bring tears to your eyes.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:September 2, 2000