Lorraine Head

Crag Description

Not far from the national historic site of Louisbourg is a stretch of rocky coastline that is popular with climbers. Primarily a bouldering destination, the rock around the coast in this area reaches a height of 10m or more in places, justifying the use of a rope. The rock is clean and solid, but a little sharp. Some routes (undocumented) have been top-roped and easier ones have likely been soloed. Two bolted lines are documented here.

How to get there

Take Highway 22 south from Sydney towards Louisbourg. Before reaching the town of Louisbourg, take a left onto Little Lorraine Rd. and then the first right onto West Shore Road (unpaved). Drive as far as you can get and then walk towards the coast (~30 minutes) until you can walk no further. The rock exposures extend quite a ways along the coast. The access described here takes you to the highest exposures.

Routes

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Shares first bolt with Honey Moon Sweet, then traverses left out to aréte. Enjoy the view.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Bolts
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:fall 2014
Climb obvious less than vertical corner on East face of the point. Small gear in double crack system to hands at top. Walk off or rap on rings.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:fall 2014
Climb the obvious impressive overhanging dihedral with thin finger crack. Bouldery start on good gear. Watch out for the Sting in the Tail! Walk off, rap route to retrieve gear.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:fall 2014
A right-hand conner crack at the Southern most aspect of The Point. This start with good gear to hands near top. Start is 5 meters to West of Zombie Moose. Walk off, rap route to clean gear.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Rap Rings
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:fall 2014
Two bolts protect a thin seam on a steep face. Easy start to bouldery finish. Second bolt is hard to clip without committing. Walk off. Build trad anchor to retrieve gear.
Type:Sport
FA by:Mike Van
FA on:2000?
Start on right corner of West wall up balance start to bolt, then blaze up featured rails on good holds and crimps to crack system. Brilliant line up bold bolts. Stick clip recommended. Shares first bolt with Room With a View.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rap Rings
FA by:Mike Van
FA on:2000?
An introductory steep corner with good gear and rap rings at top. Start is on good holds, but no protection up to 3 meters where crack system begins. Work left facing layback crack with good face holds and feet, plugging gear as needed. Start is 4 meters left of Zombie Moose or 5 meters right of Sting in the Tail.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Rap Rings
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Fall 2014
Obvious and impressive aréte on the Southern aspect of The Point 1 meter right of the Prow. Start as for the Prow (gear if needed) or stick clip first bolt then move up thru dynamic moves to gain arête and south face, then follow bolts and strenuous moves to bolt anchors. Decent – lower off and walk to top of cliff to retrieve anchor gear.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Bolts
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Fall 2015
Start 3 meters right of The Prow and Post Anal Tail just right of small overhang. Stick clip first bolt. Start up small arête on small holds to second bolt on right facing overhang. Move down and left across shield to gain right facing corner to top. Bolt anchors.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Bolts
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Fall 2015