Main Face

Main Face
Photo credit: Nathan Benjamin

Crag Description

Not for the squeamish. In the late seventies and eighties, this was the place to be. Almost all mainland development was centred here. The cliff is a broken face with a maximum total height of about 70 metres. Some lines are two or three pitches in length but most are single pitch lines. Primarily the routes are traditional in style, although there are also a handful of sport routes and a few lines with mixed protection.

Climbing here is always a bit of an adventure. You’ll find that many of the older routes are quite lichen-covered and almost all routes offer opportunities to graze on blueberries when they’re in season (late summer). The prevalence of lichen is due, in part, to the low traffic over the last decade but also because the original ethic practiced here seems to have been with minimalist approach to brushing (if at all)In addition to the lichen, the cliff is a difficult place to describe (with it’s many ledges, gullies, and buttresses), which previously required at least half a dozen visits to make sense of the place. Another aspect of the excitement (at least in part anyways) was the fact that many routes were under-graded (by as much as a full number grade or two!), which helped to firmly establish the Nova Scotia tradition of sandbagging. This guide attempts to reconcile the grading of climbs. It also gives a clearer description of where the climbs are (with the help of maps, photos, and sketches) so that visitors can become oriented fairly quickly. All in all, the place takes some getting use to, but like mold it will grow on you and as Sean Willett discovered during his apprenticeship with the early developers here: “… it really [is] fun to climb lichen-covered rock.”

To many, I suppose, the above description will make climbing at Main Face sound horrible. And for some it will be. For many others it carries them mystique of adventure. Given its incredible setting and quality and height of its lines, Main Face has an irresistible allure. There are enough climbs here (almost 70 routes) for many seasons of enjoyment. In fact, there is room for many more lines. I suspect Main Face will experience a renaissance in the coming years as the hardcore boulderers in the area turn into crusty old trad climbers!

How to get there

Option 1 (hiking):

Approximately 4.5km northwest of Musquodoboit Harbour on Highway 357 is a dirt driveway on the left hand side of the road with an iron gate across it. A couple hundred meters past this driveway, also on the left, is a faint trail leading into the woods and a sign that reads “Climb Nova Scotia Members Only” – (see Note below).

Park along the side of the highway and walk in a short distance along the trail until you reach a well-travelled ATV trail/road (this extends back to the highway and iron gate). Walk along the road for fifteen minutes until you reach a cabin at the top of the cliff, overlooking Paces Lake [Note: please respect privacy of the landowner and stay clear of the cabin]. Just before the cabin is a sign-in box for visiting climbers. At this point there is a trail that breaks left and runs along the top of the cliff, and also a trail that goes straight downhill towards the lake and into the E-Gully.

Option 2 (paddling):

If you have access to a boat, a simpler way to approach the cliff is by paddling in from the north end of Paces Lake, where the access road for First Face leads to a public dock [see First Face description]. From the dock paddle south for about fifteen minutes to reach Main Face which rises out of the lake. There are numerous places to pull up your watercraft near the cliff.

Note: Around 1990 the landowner came to an agreement with Climb Nova Scotia (CNS) to allow climbers to use his land to access the cliff as long as they are CNS members or are with a CNS member. TO ensure future access, please respect this arrangement. [The landown reserves the right to check membership cards, so bring it with you.]

Routes

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Start same as “Into the Blue” on flat block at the waters edge. Climb up to the first bolt and onto the small bulge up right. Crux moves between first and second bolt.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Todd Foster and Gavin King
FA on:9/1/2013
From single bolt belay anchor at bottom of ramp, clip high first bolt and pull long boulder problem up thin crack to gain deep jugs. Trend left along narrow ledge, following bolts to sloper crux blind throw. Then head straight up hand crack and finish right on good holds to rings. Excellent climb with great exposure.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Todd Foster
Start the same as 'Where Evil Lurks' but after the second bolt head right up and over the bulge going to the right of the tree. Cruxes are at the 2 bulges but well protected. Pull the second bulge and climb easy slab to the top. Possible to top out here onto the ledge and access Meatgrinder rappel area.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Alec Manley/Todd Foster
FA on:6/1/2014
The first bolted line as you come down into E-Gully from the cabin. Stick clip or reach the first bolt and climb through 3 bolts of boulderie moves and the obvious brain sticking off the face to gain the first ledge. Off the ledge work some smaller holds and face climbing to the top. Has a mix of many styles.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Alec Manley/Todd Foster
FA on:7/1/2014

Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Alec Manley/Todd Foster
FA on:5/1/2014
"Free the Mind" climbs the overhangs up the middle of the wall between Hurricane Corner and Meatgrinder Rappel. Climb to the top of the hanging rope ladder, reach up for large incut jug. Leave the ladder by moving your feet up into high smears. Climb through the steep dihedral up onto the slab to access a two bolt hanging belay. The second pitch continues up and right through the short but steep overhang. Crest the overhang and proceed up through the right facing dihedral. Top out and belay from the large tree. (Rap anchors will likely be placed in the future). The route can be climbed in one long pitch but rope drag would be an issue.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings, Natural
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:10/1/2014
Start the same as Sleeper clipping bolts out left. At the third bolt transition out onto the face. Continue up through balancy moves to a two bolt anchor below the Lunch Bucket Ledge.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:10/1/1012
Starts left of Sleeper Cell...Tree at base of route. Good face climbing leads to exposed mini roofs and then the "thank GOD jug" gift from the rock climbing Gods! Keep your cool and gun for the big ledge where the belay awaits. The top out holds were covered in ice during the FA which made for some extra spicey moves.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:10/1/1012
In the "sport" amphitheatre up the hill from Magistar Ludi you will find this 5.9. Easy climbing in a bit of a dirty corner leads to some nice left working moves. Bust out to the right onto the face itself...clip the last bolt then fight the pump thru the runout to the anchors. **Rock is a little hollow from last bolt to the anchors hence the runout sorry....***
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:10/10/2014
Rap into a Bolts from the new rappel above the Sagar/Smizzle mega project..put the draws in on the way down...some longer draws help with clips etc..Climb out on immaculate steep orange granite while enjoying spectacular exposure and wild positions! Climbing in NS does not get much better.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Bolts
FA by:Sean Therien/Jay Darrow
FA on:8/28/2015
Rap into Bolts(rings) from new rappel.Burly moves right off the station lead to steep thin tips and then more difficulties await. Finsh up same ramp as Welcome to the Machine.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Bolts
FA by:Sean Therien/Todd Foster
FA on:9/5/2015
A direct finish to gargoyle. Climbs the first two bolts of gargoyle and then finishes straight up an interesting dihedral. Almost all the holds in the second half are underclings or sidepulls. Makes for some interesting moves.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Shawn Smith/Gareth Ryan
FA on:10/11/2015
3rd route at what is now known as "the hanging garden" at Mainface has been equiped...it climbs from the same belay as Full Metal Jacket..goes up and left to a lowering off station...this route is approx 5.10 has 7(?) bolts and is cool because it neither touches the ground or top out. Don't Google 'The Cremaster' muscle at work.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Bolts
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:9/1/2015
Two open projects were started by Ghislain Losier at the bottom of the E-Gully (north side). Partially bolted; they tackle the steep wall via an arete and a dihedral.
Type:Sport
Height:12m
Rating:PG
Start two metres left of a small birch tree and just right of the cave. Climb up the blocky corner to reach a flake on the right hand wall (near the top) and move right and up past the flake (crux) to finish.
Type:Trad
Height:32m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 14, 1987
Starting two metres right of the birch tree, climb a shallow dihedral past two bolts. Above the second bolt traverse left, underclinging the small roof to the arete. Follow the arete straight up to a two-bolt anchor. It is possible to rap here or continue up the right-angling flake to top out (5.9).
Type:Sport
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:September 1991
Starts just right of Enervator and climbs the steep shallow dihedral directly to the ledge below Euthanasia (#3). Start with a tricky step into the dihedral and a good finger lock (#1 friend). Run it out using the intermittent crack in the dihedral and the left arete to reach the ledge. This route grows in quick. Was aid climbed in 2009 and unwittingly claimed as an FA due to the moss (5 years after it was first cleaned and free-climbed).
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:August 25, 2006
Climb the start of Enervator past two bolts (5.11a) and then step right to reach a flake in the dihedral on the right. Follow the dihedral to the ledge and an old bolt at the base of a wide crack. Climb the steep crack (fist and offwidth size) to a ledge and continue up a second crack in the steep headwall. Finish on slabs at the top. [Note: An all-gear variation (5.10) to this climb starts on Pitch 1 of Ecstasy to reach the ledge, and then finish on the cracks as described above.]
Type:Mixed
Height:24m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:July 6, 1991
"Find out what everyone is raving about. (Could be climbed in one pitch.)
Pitch 1 (5.6, G, 9m): Climb the wide wet mossy corner to a ledge
Pitch 2 (5.6, G, 14m): From the ledge climb an even wider mossy corner. Just do it."
Type:Trad
Height:23m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Dale
FA on:August 26, 1978
An alternate direct finish for route #4 (Ecstasy). After you climb the original wide crack, move right onto the face and straight up. Finish at the chains for Splitting Coins (#5).
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Rich LaPaix
FA on:August 2009
Formerly known as E-Gads - a long uncompleted project (a few bolts were installed around 1992) up the long blank face, right of the mossy corner. Start at a cyclops eye and move up and left. Weave back and forth on very small crimps to reach the large ledge (stay left of the alluring Euphoria Arete).
Type:Sport
Height:21m
Rating:G
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:November 2, 2008
"This route can be climbed as one pitch or two separate ones. Or you can rap off after the first pitch as it was originally conceived in 1981.
Pitch 1 (5.8, G, 11m): Start by a small spruce tree close to the right hand edge of the wall and follow the obvious crack line to the ledge. At this point you can rap off of a single bolt and a slung horn or continue up the slabby arete above.
Pitch 2 (a.k.a. Euphoria Arete, 5.10b, G, 6m) [FFA: Dan Price, Sean Willett, July 6, 1991]: From the top of Euphoria, climb the slabby arete past two bolts to reach the large ledge. Stay on the right side of the arete (the first time I climbed this route, temptation pulled me to the left side which is quite a bit harder, and it proceeded to spit me off mercilessly)."
Type:Mixed
Height:17m
Rating:G
FA by:Kevin Cody
FA on:July 26, 1981
Start as for Euphoria but continue right past the spruce tree to the arete and climb to the ledge directly. [Note: an easier variation to the arete (climbed by Sean Willett and Sylvia Fuller in 1994) can be reached by traversing right a short distance past the arete to gain a 5.8 jam crack which then leads to the ledge.] Either way, continue up Euphoria Arete (5.10b) to the large ledge and climb the final headwall on the left side of the arete to finish.
Type:Mixed
Height:26m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:August 17, 1991
Fun moves up the steep face bring you onto a slab and a right-trending seam - follow this to the steep dihedral and up. Wicked fun.
Type:Mixed
Height:16m
Rating:G
FA by:Rich LaPaix
FA on:September 2007
From the start of Popcorn, scramble up the steep gully (4th class) just left of the face of Popcorn, past a couple of small trees to the base of a wide vertical crack/corner. Belay here. Climb the corner and crack system up and slightly left to High Ledge. A little dirty but fun.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Dale et al
FA on:August 27, 1978
"One of the best climbs around. Great exposure, good gear, and quality rock - all at a very accessible grade. From the bottom of the E-Gully, walk south along an eroding ledge to reach a small pine tree.
Pitch 1 *** (5.6, G, 17m): Climb the right-angling dyke on large holds until you can climb straight up over a bulge to a small ledge. Continue straight up the slab to belay at a large tree.
Pitch 2 * (5.5, G, 15m): The original line traversed left from the tree for eight metres and then climbed easy slabs up to High Ledge. Alternatively, you can ascend straight up the left or right crack lines directly behind the large belay tree (5.6). [Note: the direct variation was dubbed ""Gimme Crack Corn,"" FFA: Jayar Milligan, Dave MacLeod, and Tony Veling, August 1982.]
Pitch 3 (5.3-5.5, R, 11m): At the left end of High Ledge, start behind the large spruce and climb the rolling, low-angled crack and face features to the top of the cliff."
Type:Trad
Height:43m
Rating:G/R³
FA by:Chris Dale et al
FA on:August 26, 1978
From the hanging belay of Scratch and Sniffle, climb up and then left along a diagonal line (passing two bolts) to join the first pitch of Popcorn.
Type:Mixed
Height:22m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:Summer 1994
Start just above the water on the left side of the Priceless Slab at a two-bolt hanging belay. The belay can be reached by scrambling down the ledges (with difficulty) from the base of Popcorn. Climb straight up a crack and move right (past a bolt) to gain the slab. Pad up the slab to the base of a finger crack (which is where Priceless goes). Then traverse right past one bolt to gain the left-facing corner of Into the Blue. Head up the steep corner and then traverse right again to a ledge at the base of steep cracks in the middle of the first pitch of Mainline. Finish on Mainline. [Note: the orginal route as described is quite convoluted. A better line starts with Scratch and Sniffle and finishes straight up on Priceless (5.10b) and then Popcorn.]
Type:Mixed
Height:32m
Rating:PG
FA by:Kevin Cody
FA on:November 1984
There are a couple of amusing stories (perhaps only suburban myths) regarding the name of this route. One story says that Danny Price missed out on the first ascent (hence "Priceless") but got the first free ascent. Another story says that Danny fell off of the route and landed in the lake (hence "Priceless"). And yet another story, possibly unrelated, says that upon landing in the lake, Danny lost his rack directly below the route and faced an expensive replacement bill (hence "Priceless"). Start at the right-most side of the slab and traverse left along a ledge just above the water to gain a thin vertical seam. Climb the seam and crack straight up to a bolt and then traverse left to reach a thin finger crack (5.10b) leading to a short overhang. Climb the left side of the overhang and then up a series of steps to reach the Popcorn belay. Finish on Popcorn.
Type:Mixed
Height:36m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Tony Veling, Jayar Milligan
FA on:November 18, 1982
Climb the slab just right of Priceless on sparse gear. Surmount the short roof at the top of the slab and move right to continue up a short right-facing dihedral. Follow weakness up to the belay for Into the Blue. Sketchy details for this route were extracted from Sean the day before he left for the Bugaboos.
Type:Trad
Height:39m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Sean McOuat
FA on:August 2002
"Pitch 1 ** (5.7, 40m): Climb the easy cracks up to the left-facing corner on the right side of the Priceless slab. At the top of the corner, steep but easy moves puts you on slabby terrain at the base of an overhanging wall. Traverse left (do not continue straight up the inviting corner) along the crack and slab below an overhanging wall until you reach the obvious break of Popcorn. Finish straight up on Popcorn or follow the original line up a right-angling dyke system (the dyke is steep and loose-ish, and is probably more like 5.8+, so I'd recommend that you finish on Popcorn and enjoy a quality 5.7 line without hurting yourself).
Pitch 2 (5.5, 10m): If you climbed the loose dyke, you are now ready to climb eight metres of steep blueberry fields and a fun but short (three metres) lichen-infested hand crack to reach High Ledge.
Pitch 3 (5.6, 12m): Start on High Ledge, five metres right of Popcorn and just left of a short overhanging wall. Climb the mossy hand-sized crack over a short bulge towards tufts of grass."
Type:Trad
Height:62m
Rating:G
FA by:Kevin Cody
FA on:July 25, 1982
"Pitch 1 * (5.8, 20m): At the right side of the face, climb easy ground (trending left) to reach a series of steep vertical cracks in a corner. It is possible to belay here at a tree, or continue straight up the cracks to a good belay station in the trees.
Pitch 2 (5.6, 7m): Scramble up the slabs to High Ledge.
Pitch 3 ** (5.8, 15m): The most inviting hand- to fist-sized crack starting on High Ledge. This route is about three metres right of the short outside corner (Dry Idea)."
Type:Trad
Height:42m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Dale et al
FA on:September 2, 1978
A high quality line that covers surprisingly steep terrain for the grade, with good holds and good gear. Climb the steep corner leading to the big ledge at about 10 m height. Continue up the obvious crack/dihedral and into a bit of a squeeze chimney to reach a belay stance in the trees. Finish with the second pitch of Mainline to reach High Ledge.
Type:Trad
Height:19m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Dale et al
FA on:September 1978
"Pitch 1 (5.8, G, 21m): Walk in from the right, along the big ledge. Climb the crack system to the right of Direct Line. [Note: you can also climb Direct Line from the base of the wall to the ledge and then walk right to the second crack system.] Near the top, climb up and right through cracks and flakes surmounting the steep step.
Pitch 2 (5.5, PG, 10m): A short scramble up to High Ledge.
Pitch 3 (5.10a, R, 15m): The mossy discontinuous thin crack and face near a very large spruce tree on the right side of High Ledge. Very little gear. Essentially a boulder problem off of the wide ledge and then it's over. Looks dirty and is probably heavily sandbagged. After the bouldery section, follow the easy corner above or finish left on one of the other lines."
Type:Trad
Height:46m
Rating:G/R³
FA by:Dan Price
FA on:July 1990
Starts on High Ledge in the thin crack to the right of Into the Blue (pitch 3). There are a pair of thin cracks in the short, steep, wall. Climb the left-most one. There's one bolt high up on the climb to protect the face climbing.
Type:Mixed
Height:13m
Rating:G
FA by:Rick Prenger
FA on:1988
Climb the right-most thin crack (one metre left of the Blind Man's Bluff corner). Go over the steep bulge and follow the crack past a very small spruce tree.
Type:Trad
Height:14m
Rating:G
FA by:Rick Prenger
FA on:1988
Climb the wide, dirty and mossy corner at the right side of the short steep wall. Continue to a bulge with two cracks in it. Climb the right-most one. A variation start climbs the face to the right of the starting corner (5.8).
Type:Trad
Height:14m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:July 1981
Climb the seam and face just right of the outside corner to the right of Blind Man's Bluff. Follow a slab and crack to the top.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG/R
FA by:Mike Moyles
FA on:mid-1980s
Start two or three metres right of Mainline and just left of the start of Up Over Down Under. Looks mossy. Apparently, laybacking is easier than jamming on this one.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 1982
A short but engaging section of climbing halfway up the Upper North Buttress. Start on Up Over Down Under or Men at Work and tackle the thin seam and face (one bolt) over a steep, clean bulge.
Type:Mixed
Height:6m
Rating:PG
FA by:Rick Prenger
FA on:1988
From High Ledge, grab the large flake behind the big spruce tree and traverse right until it is possible to go up a finger crack. Quite enjoyable. Finish to the right of the steep face above, or move left and finish on Birthday (5.10b).
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Glen Donahue
FA on:August 1987
One of the first lines put up at Paces Lake. Follows the obvious wide chimney from the base of the cliff to the right side of High Ledge. At the present time, the first part of the chimney is choked by a very large tree which I doubt anyone will bother to remove. The rest of the climb is quite enjoyable and if you've read this far, (if I was reading the guide and I saw "chimney" like you, I'd probably skip it) you should definitely get on it. Lots of holds on the faces of both sides of the chimney and good gear when you need it. Worth doing.
Type:Trad
Height:30m
Rating:PG
FA by:Chris Dale et al
FA on:September 1978
"This is a fine mountaineering style route with great positions, requires competent leader and second.

Pitch 1, 10m 5.10a+  5 m left of Out of the Doldrums is a thin overhanging crack. Climb the crack by finger-jamming and laybacking to a sloping overhung ledge. In the wall above is a fingerhold. Use this to gain a good handhold above and left, then climb up on better holds to a small footledge. An adequate yet amusing belay on various nuts and cams, with a #2 Friend being particularly useful for a shallow crack on the right.
Note: a #1 RP was pre-placed in the overhanging wall to protect the move up off the sloping ledge and should still be there. Exercise caution as these babies can snap at relatively low shock loads.

Pitch 2. 30m 5.8  Move up and right to join Out of the Doldrums and follow this almost to the roof. Step down and make a long traverse to the right on good finger holds to join Itchy and Scratchy at the crux. Finish up this.

""What are those blue remembered hills,
What spires, what farms are those?""
A.E. Housman"
Type:Trad
Height:40m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:September 22, 2006
Follow two short but steep right-facing dihedrals up the centre of the broken wall to the right of Chimneys. Finishes up a short roof (crux) with blind moves to pretty good holds. Great position and exposure.
Type:Trad
Height:23m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:September 23, 2001
Climbs the long arête to the left of Oskar. Start at a left-leaning ramp with loose-sounding blocks on it (you can avoid the blocks by starting on bench a little higher up - access from the start of Oskar). At the top of the ramp, step right onto a grassy ledge (this is the alternate start) and then up and left on good holds to a corner. Follow the corner up to a steep bulge. Pull over the bulge (crux) and onto a short slab before finishing on the final steep dihedral. Belay on High Ledge or run it up to the top of Meatgrinder. The route covers great terrain at a modest grade. [Note: at press-time the lower third of the route was inaccessible because of a fallen tree. Therefore, start from the grassy ledge.]
Type:Trad
Height:25m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:September 23, 2001
Climbs the finger crack left of Meatgrinder up to the slabs that end by the rappel tree.
Type:Trad
Height:19m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:August 2, 1987
Starts on top of a block at the base of a left-leaning wide crack, three metres behind a spruce tree. Awkward climbing takes you to a small niche where you can exit to the right or left.
Type:Trad
Height:17m
Rating:PG
FA by:Chris Dale et al
FA on:September 3, 1978
Climb the corner and short roof just left of No Purchase. The start is bouldery with not much gear and there is a very awkward bulge near the top. Just grim and bear it.
Type:Trad
Height:22m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:July 7, 2002
Start ten metres right of Meatgrinder at the top of a slab which runs down to the right and ends near Hurricane. No Purchase climbs the obvious discontinous finger cracks up the left-facing corner. After six metres, step right into a second dihedral and finish on a slabby ledge to the right of the Meatgrinder rappel.
Type:Trad
Height:24m
Rating:PG
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:August 1987
Open Project bolted by Nick Sagar up the impressive arete left of Black Rose [see NSR pg.81 for a photo of the arete].
Type:Sport
Height:30m
Rating:G
One of the finest lines at Main Face. Climb the obvious crack on the overhanging wall left of Hurricane. At the cave-like alcove, step left onto a block resting on the ledge, known as the "Shivering Horn," and climb up the short corner. Finish on easy slabs to belay at a small tree. Double ropes are handy if you climb this in one pitch - it's also possible to belay in the alcove to reduce rope drag. This will be a classic route. Excellent holds, good gear, steep, and unrelenting.
Type:Trad
Height:30m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:June 27, 1999
"The obvious large right-facing corner crack that starts on the left hand side of a 10 m high moss covered slab.
Pitch 1 (5.9, PG, 33m): Climb the low-angle crack into the corner (10 m) where the crack steepens. Follow the crack up to a ledge on the left to belay. Significantly harder when wet. [Note: this pitch was originally climbed as two separate pitches.]
Pitch 2 (5.8+, G, 15m): The final pitch moves up and right to a short overhanging crack and then finishes up vegetated cracks to a tree belay up and right. The last pitch can be avoided by walking off the ledge to the left (4th class)."
Type:Trad
Height:48m
Rating:PG
FA by:Chris Dale et al
FA on:September 3, 1978
Start to the left of the big tree at the right side of the Hurricane slab. Climb discontinuous cracks up the slab to reach the steep wall. Follow good incuts to the lip. Step right as you gain the slab above the overhanging wall. This is a serious and committing lead. [Note: bring small nuts to fidget in before you gain the slab.]
Type:Trad
Height:30m
Rating:R
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:August 12, 2001
Basically a variation start to Hurricane. Start at the right-most end of the slab and follow the left-arching crack along the top of the slab until you join Hurricane. Rig a belay here and finish on Hurricane.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Sylvia Fuller
FA on:Summer 1994
"Pitch 1 ** (5.11b, 28m): An aesthetic and powerful line. Start as for Summer Breezes and follow it up and left until you reach the base of a shallow left-facing corner. Make an awkward move up and right, over a bulge, to an alcove below a short overlap. Pull into the steep dihedral for six metres until you reach the slab. Exit via a short steep section on the right to gain a ledge and tree belay. [Note: bring small nuts and cams for this pitch.]
Pitch 2 * (5.8, 18m): From the belay, go straight up and left to gain a sentry-box feature. Step right and then up to gain a left-angling crack system and up to the top."
Type:Trad
Height:46m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Sean Cassidy and Steve Punshon
FA on:August, 2001
Climb up the right-most side of Hurricane slab past a very small spruce tree until you reach a left-facing dihedral with a few ferns in it. Ascend the fingery dihedral up to a ledge. From here, the original line traverses right to the top of a blocky pillar (watch for loose rock around here) and then up to a large roof. Traverse back left until you can top out on the ledge. An alternate (and more direct) finish from the top of the first dihedral follows a flake and crack system up to the left.
Type:Trad
Height:25m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:October 11, 1991
Start as per No Brush No Bolts. After the small spruce tree, step right on a big ledge and climb good face holds to reach the arete and then the ledge atop the No Brush No Bolts dihedral. Follow the original finish of No Brush No Bolts. The route was put up soon after the publication of "Climb Nova Scotia" and in the words of Sean Willett (1994): "[was] destined to be a classic. . ." Sadly, the route remained unrepeated for seven years.
Type:Trad
Height:24m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:Summer 1994
Excellent bolted face climb just left of "Point of View" [Rap in or climb #37 or #38 from the ground to access the ledge]. A good vantage point to view skinny dippers -according to Keith.
Type:Sport
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Keith Swyer
FA on:Summer 2005
From the ledge at the top of No Brush No Bolts, climb the left-facing corner to another short ledge. Traverse right into a beautiful finger crack that finishes up the top headwall. Great climb with nice exposure on the upper buttress. [Note: if the lower pitches typically used to access this route are too hard for you, rap in from the top to the very comfortable belay ledge.]
Type:Trad
Height:35m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 1987
Climb an easy corner about 20 m right of No Brush, No Bolts to a ledge. Scramble up to another ledge and tackle the business directly up the short but steep wall above. The gear is pretty good, but it takes some effort to hang on and put it in. [I was gonna make some smart quip about Viagra here, but thought better of it.]
Type:Trad
Height:20m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:July 7, 2002
"This climb is directly below a green streak that is visible on the upper wall and has a large flat area at its base.
Pitch 1* (5.10c, PG-, 20m): Climb the easy slabs into a left-facing rib/corner with a rounded crack in it. Follow the crack up left. Then quickly crank right out of the corner and then up to a small ledge. From the ledge, continue up an overhanging wall to a large ledge at the base of the ""Aids Wall.""
Pitch 2** (5.9+, G, 30m): Walk left along the ledge (~six metres) and climb upwards until you can traverse back right and gain the left-facing corner and left-angling crack system leading to a short roof. Powerful moves with excellent gear take you through the roof and onto low angle dirty climbing up and right to a belay tree."
Type:Trad
Height:50m
Rating:PG-¹
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:1989
From the top of the first pitch of Seize the Day, ascend the overhanging hand and fist crack to the top. A good sustained line. Apparently the first ascent involved a lot of resting on gear (hence the name) and was first freed around 1992 by Sean Willett.
Type:Trad
Height:32m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling, Sean Willett, Dan Price, J.Holmes
FA on:July 1990
"The main feature of this climb is a large right-facing dihedral that ends at the blank overhanging wall right of Aids. The arete forming the left wall of this dihedral resembles an aquiline nose below a jutting forehead.  The start is only marginally protected by small wires and a ground-fall is a real possibility. A bold approach is needed. A selection of small to micro RPs is crucial and double ropes are recommended.

Pitch 1. 5.9+ R  (S.Punshon and P. MacVey)
Start between Sieze the Day and Jekyll and Hyde at a short corner behind a tree (white flagging tape). Climb up into the corner (wire placements) then move left on awkward sloping handholds until a pull up to small incuts is possible (wire runner to right). Traverse boldly left on better fingerholds to reach a good side-pull below a sloping ledge (very poor small wire placements). Climb directly up over some small ledges to the prominent right-facing dihedral and climb it until it ends at the blank overhanging wall. Summon up what little courage remains, then hand traverse right across a huge, scary, hollow-sounding wedged flake (The Winking Eye) to reach the chimney-crack of Dr. Jekyll. Belay a few metres higher on a good sloping ledge. An exciting lead.

Pitch 2. 5.6 (P. MacVey and S. Punshon)
Climb cracks in the left arete to a large bush-covered ledge. Finish up a pleasant left facing dihedral to the left of a large tree."
Type:Trad
Height:55m
Rating:R
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:October 8, 2006
"From the base of Mr. Puff, traverse left along a gravelly ledge (4th class) to reach a left-facing corner.
Pitch 1 (5.8, PG, 22m): Go up the corner to a ledge at the base of a steep gully.
Pitch 2 (5.6, PG, 30m): Finish up the gully with sloping, bush-infested ledges to reach the top.
[Note: a direct start is possible (5.9+) by starting directly below the corner up a steep face leading to the ledge. Gear for the direct start doesn't look great.]"
Type:Trad
Height:52m
Rating:PG
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 1982
An undisputed classic. Originally graded 5.7 (what were they smoking?), this was Nova Scotia sandbagging at its finest. Start behind a large detached block and follow an open dihedral up the left side of the red mottled face. Tree belay at top. Scramble off left to the top of the cliff or up right to join the second pitch of Conan.
Type:Trad
Height:27m
Rating:PG
FA by:Dan Price
FA on:1981
A relentless climb up the steep face right of Mr. Puff. Start just left of the arete bordering the mossy gully of Conan, up a short, steep crack (bouldery) to gain the slab. From there follow left-angling cracks to reach a vertical crack that heads up to a small roof. Follow the crack up the right side of the roof into a "v-slot" and then up to a good belay stance.
Type:Trad
Height:27m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 1987
Start with the same bouldery section as Don't Let Go and then follow an enjoyable, discontinuous finger crack along the arete to reach a small ledge below the ever-steepening wall. At the pod, swing right around the corner and climb the left edge of the arete to the top.
Type:Trad
Height:29m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:May 1992
"Pitch 1 (5.6, 32m): The unbelievably mossy dihedral. Someone has climbed this. Go figure.
Pitch 2** (5.9+, 20m): An exciting pitch. Scramble up and right from the top of Pitch 1 and then ascend the awkward, left-leaning crack starting from a grassy ledge. Finishes by a large boulder on the top."
Type:Trad
Height:52m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 1982
This climb follows the wedge-shaped feature between Conan and Lunchbucket, starting one metre right of a forked birch tree. Climb the wedge to a ledge with two spruces and continue up the left-facing corner and up right to another ledge and belay tree (pine).
Type:Trad
Height:27m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 1987
"Pitch 1 (5.7, G, 27m): A dirty mossy groove that leads to an overhanging block. Take the left side of the block to join Wedge or head directly up the right side (preferred). Both options lead to the big ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.7, G, 21m): Yet another dirty mossy groove (why stop the fun after Pitch 1)! Goes to the top directly behind the top of the first pitch."
Type:Trad
Height:48m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 1982
Fun bolted face climb to the left of the 2nd pitch of Sleeper. Cleaned, equipped, and named by Sean Kelly and Conan Baker; reluctantly FA'd by SC.
Type:Sport
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:July 2005
"Fun route that starts on top of a large block immediately right of the Lunchbucket groove.
Pitch 1 (5.7, 26m): Follow cracks and dihedrals up to the large belay ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.6, 18m): Climb the obvious crack and corner on the right end of the ledge up to a large spruce tree (also known as the Sleeper Rappel)."
Type:Trad
Height:44m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 1982
Start on the same ledge as the second pitch of Conan. Climb the arete and right face past one bolt (crux) to gain a left-leaning jam crack. The first five metres are quite tricky.
Type:Mixed
Height:19m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:August 8, 1991
From the wide ledge, climb the steep crack system starting two metres left of the top pitch of Sleeper. Go up and right at the end to finish at the top of Sleeper, or go left to the top of the second pitch of Lunchbucket.
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Kevin Cody
FA on:June 1987
A hidden gem discovered and cleaned by the deceptively tall Sean Kelly.  Start on a ledge left of Shiver Me Timbers about 30 ft below the top of crag. Climb the short layback crack to good holds and move right and up to join the top of Shiver Me Timbers.  To quote Kelly on the first ascent "If this is 5.8 then I'm five foot two!".  
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:September 2005
Named for a rotting tree that was removed from the route prior to it becoming a route. Accessed by climbing the first pitch of Sleeper and then doing a sideways rappel down 10 m to the right off of the ledge, or by scrambling up steep ledges just right of the start of Sleeper. Follow the obvious jam crack that curves left past a tree stump up the steep face. Solid jams and nice exposure. Belay in cracks at the top, or higher up at the Sleeper Rappel.
Type:Trad
Height:30m
Rating:PG
FA by:Mike Moyles
FA on:1987
Follows a flaring slot and crack system just left of the Piece of Cake roof. Short but powerful. Accessed by 4th class scrambling up steps and ledges right of Sleeper or uphill from Buffy. Or you can rappel in from the top from a flagged tree located a short ways downhill from the Sleeper Rappel.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:Ted Johnston
FA on:1987
Start in a corner under a big roof three metres off the ground. Climb out the roof to the right and layback up the corner to the top. [Note: see Trial Run description for directions to reach this climb.]
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Kevin Cody
FA on:June 1987
Just left of Gargoyle, climb the flakes up through the funky groove. Take a breather and then move up and right to join the finish of On The Brink. Much harder than it looks. The gear is there but you have to work for it.
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:September 13, 1992
Start below a flake that resembles a crocodile/gargoyle facing the water. Climb up past two bolts and start traversing right around the overhanging prow. Finish at a chain anchor on the Lichen Virgin slab.
Type:Sport
Height:11m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:August 1992
Around the corner from Gargoyle is a big dirty slab that is left of, and below, an interesting series of chossy-looking overhanging cracks. On The Brink climbs along the left edge of the slab, passing the chains of Gargoyle and finishing up an enjoyable arete which leads to the belay ledge. Rappel from a tree or scramble off left to the Mr. Puff area.
Type:Trad
Height:23m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:August 1992
Start as for On The Brink but before reaching the Gargoyle chains, head straight up to an overhanging, flaring slot. Climb the slot or move left to gain the arete.
Type:Trad
Height:22m
Rating:G
FA by:Heather Reynolds
FA on:July 1992
Start at the far right edge of the slab below the overhanging cracks. Follow the upper edge of the slab up to the left to finish on Lichen Virgin or On the Brink.
Type:Trad
Height:22m
Rating:PG
FA by:Heather Reynolds
FA on:September 13, 1992
One of the overhanging chimney cracks right of Dirty, Wet and Loose. Good tree station at top. According to the FA team, "the pro sucks."
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:PG-/R
FA by:Nick Sagar
FA on:October 5, 1995
Just uphill from the overhanging choss-pile is a steep corner (short scramble to reach the base). Climb the left-leaning dihedral to a tree belay on big holds. Easier than it looks.
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:July 25, 1992
"Up the hill from Buffy, start behind and left of a slightly leaning large tree. Two other large trees to the left were blown down by Hurricane Juan.

This route was put up shortly after a ""to bolt or not to bolt"" debate on the web. I don't expect it will be repeated anytime soon; here's Steve's description:

""Climb up onto a large block to gain a thin crackline (runner). Hand traverse boldly right on big holds and pull up to a slab. Climb up easily but without gear to a large unstable block at the base of a corner (Caution: death groundfall, pulling off the block will probably wipe out leader and belayer). Stand up on the block, nut placement at arms reach on left. Stem up corner and make an awkward move right to good holds at top of climb."""
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:X
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:October 28, 2003
An enjoyable sport climb a short ways uphill from the left side of the Waterfront Buttress.
Type:Sport
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:July 26, 2000
The obvious jam crack two metres left of the "cyclops hole" which leads through a short overlap to the ledge. Short but fun.
Type:Trad
Height:11m
Rating:G
FA by:Colin Matthews
FA on:May 14, 1995
The central crack behind a "two-trunk tree." Boulder up a series of flakes from the left to gain a flaring crack (gear here). Continue past a small spruce growing in the crack.
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:PG-/R
FA by:Steve Brewis
FA on:May 14, 1995
The right hand crack with a big pocket at one-third height. Boulder in from the right along an obvious ramp and then straight up the crack. Short and powerful. Exiting the crack is tricky.
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Steve Brewis
FA on:May 14, 1995
From the ledge above Sam's Miaow, climb a short crack leading to a one metre roof. Then traverse left to far side of roof where you can top out. Even shorter than the routes below it!
Type:Trad
Height:5m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Brewis
FA on:May 14, 1995
The left-leaning hand and finger crack. A little dirty but a great climb.
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Kevin Cody
FA on:1987
The thin crack and face to the right of Farewell to Arms.