Medicine Wall

Crag Description

Medicine Wall is a short cliff found at the west end of Shannon Island in the sheltered waters west of Lower Prospect. Considered by some to be more of a high-ball bouldering area, it woudl require a rope for most of us. Nonetheless the climbing looks good and includes some beautiful paddling around the islands to get there. (Warning: the seas can get high here and will cover most of the slab at the base of the cliff, making escape via canoe or kayak difficult).

The initial climbing development was started here by Chris Hayes, Shawna Penny, Eric Gilbert, Brian Managhan, and Mike Kohler, who cleaned and top-roped most of the lines (many of which were subsequently led by them or others). They were so enthusiastic about the place after its discovery that they started a website (which expanded to include beta on many of Nova Scotia’s other established climbing areas).

How to get there

Drive to Lower Prospect (close to the end of Terence Bay Road) and put your boat in at one of the small inlets that touches the west side of the road (see Easter Island description for more details). Paddle across Back Bay into the channel between the mainland and the north side of Shannon Island, heading towards Rogues Roost. The cliff is on the west side of Shannon Island just after you pass a small island on your right. Look for a sheltered spot to pull the boat up (possibly as much as a couple of hundred meters before you reach the cliff, depending on conditions) because it may be difficult to exit later if the swell picks up.

Routes

Show Filters
The moderate layback crack with a vegetated finish at the extreme left of the crag.
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Kelly
FA on:May 2006
A fun corner crack. Start in behind the big boulders at the very bottom and wedge yourself in between the face and the small boulder. Climb directly up the corner to a small tree. Pass the tree. A cleansing experience.
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Hayes
FA on:Spring 2000
Start wedged behind the large boulder and follow a crack past a small tree. Top out on the sloping ledge.
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Hayes
FA on:Spring 2000
Start at the right side of the face, below vertical cracks that are about six metres up. Begin a curved edge and traverse left until you can gain a small right-facing crack. Traverse back right and follow cracks to the top. Let the bleeding begin.
Type:Top Rope
Height:10m
The short dirty corner that leads up to a grassy knoll or ledge.
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:PG
FA by:Peter McVey
FA on:July 22, 2001
Make a delicate moves up to reach a small flake. Continue straight up, passing a small ledge at about five metres, and finish at the big tree on the ledge above.
Type:Top Rope
Height:8m
A good warm-up. Follow the main crack up the slab right of Pap Smear.
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:PG
FA on:2000
This top-rope project climbs the rounded corner on the right hand face. Crimpy crystal pulling all the way.
Type:Top Rope
Height:13m