Medicine Wall is a short cliff found at the west end of Shannon Island in the sheltered waters west of Lower Prospect. Considered by some to be more of a high-ball bouldering area, it woudl require a rope for most of us. Nonetheless the climbing looks good and includes some beautiful paddling around the islands to get there. (Warning: the seas can get high here and will cover most of the slab at the base of the cliff, making escape via canoe or kayak difficult).
The initial climbing development was started here by Chris Hayes, Shawna Penny, Eric Gilbert, Brian Managhan, and Mike Kohler, who cleaned and top-roped most of the lines (many of which were subsequently led by them or others). They were so enthusiastic about the place after its discovery that they started a website (which expanded to include beta on many of Nova Scotia’s other established climbing areas).
How to get there
Drive to Lower Prospect (close to the end of Terence Bay Road) and put your boat in at one of the small inlets that touches the west side of the road (see Easter Island description for more details). Paddle across Back Bay into the channel between the mainland and the north side of Shannon Island, heading towards Rogues Roost. The cliff is on the west side of Shannon Island just after you pass a small island on your right. Look for a sheltered spot to pull the boat up (possibly as much as a couple of hundred meters before you reach the cliff, depending on conditions) because it may be difficult to exit later if the swell picks up.