Old Mill

Crag Description

The Old Mill Crag is located near the town of Harmony, by the ruins of an old mill along the south side of a stream. The climbing history is largely undocumented, but it seems that climbers have been visiting the place for at least 15 years. Many of the climbers have been based at nearby CFB Greenwood. Top-roping seems to be the norm at this crag, but some of the routes may be leadable, and perhaps have been led already. Specific route histories have not been recorded to date and therefore are not included here.

The rock is highly stratified vertically, providing some slabby faces (with very little protection opportunities) and some highly fractured faces (with moderate protection). There are about eight different faces, ranging in height from eight to twelve metres in height with climbs ranging from about 5.6 to 5.10. In the spring and fall, the high water levels of the stream make it difficult to access the base of the cliff, and the bugs are insane between May and June. The best time to visit would be sometime after June.

How to get there

The Old Mill climbing area is located oon the South Maintain, near Greenwood, in the Annapolis Valley. Take the Kingston/Greenwood exit (Exit 17) off of Highway 101. Drive into Kingston and follow the signs for the K-Mart Mall or CFB Greenwood. Turn right at the lights by Canadian Tire, which will take you by McDonald’s (on the right), and the Zellers Mall (left side). Across from Zellers there is a fork in the road – follow the right branch. Follow this road until you get to a T-intersection with a stop sign. Turn left and go about 100m turn right onto Rocknotch road. Follow Rocknotch road until a stop sign. Do a U-turn and park near the first guardrail on the right. There is a path that leads down to the stream and the ruins of the mill. COntinue downstream until you get to a concrete box structure – this marks the far left (eastern) edge of the climbing area.

Routes

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Chossy and loose line of weakness climbing out of left gully.
Type:Top Rope
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Sarah Gutowsky
FA on:27/09/14
Bolted line from left gully up left face to hidden ring anchor.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Mick Levin
FA on:27/09/14
Up left river side arete
Type:Top Rope
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Mick Levin
FA on:27/09/14
Left line on the river face
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Mick Levin
FA on:27/09/14
Right TR line on the river face
Type:Top Rope
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Nathan Benjamin
FA on:27/09/14
Beautiful right side river arete
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Andrew Nette, Todd Foster
FA on:22/08/14
First line right of Tomcat Combat
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Todd Foster, Andrew Nette
FA on:22/08/14
Rightmost line, begins with a short ramp
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Andrew Nette, Todd Foster
FA on:22/08/14