Sandy Cove

Crag Description

The cliff at Sandy Cove is known as “The Mountain” by locals, and offers some interesting climbing on solid basalt. To date, only a limited amount of development has taken place, but there are a few crack lines and top-roping routes established, with opportunity for more routes in the future. The cliff is broken into two sections: The Warm-up Wall to the west (up to 10 metres high) and the Main Wall on the east (up to 30 metres high).

How to get there

From Digby, follow Route 217 west towards Digby Neck. About 10 km past the turn-off for Trout Cove (Centreville) you will enter the community of Sandy Cove. As you come down the hill you will see a large cove on the left (East Sandy Cove) and if you look back to your right you will see the cliff (Mount Shubley).

Just past house #6555 (about 1/3 down the hill), look for a narrow grassy driveway on the right hand side. This is a private drive and goes past a while house with a red roof (set back from the road about 50m) and eventually arrives at a red cottage. It might be o.k. to use the driveway and to park in the large grassy area alongside it (ask permission first), but it would probably be more appropriate to park at the restaurant located 200 metres further down the highway and then walk in.

As you walk along the grassy driveway/road you will reach a small wooden bridge. A hundred metres past this point (after the driveway bends right and starts to bend back let again) take an ATV trail on your right (a buoy hangs in a tree on the trail as a marker) that leads into a cleared hillside. Follow this meandering trail for ten minutes to the top of the cliff. Note: if you stay on the driveway you will come to a summer cottage (red cabin). If people are there, ask permission before climbing at the cliff.

A trail from the top of the cliff leads down a cool, narrow rock gully to reach the Main Wall. From the top of the gully, look for a faint trail on the right (when facing out from the cliff) that goes down a slope to access the Warm-Up Wall.

Routes

Show Filters
Lef side of short wall at left end of crag. Follow flakes and crack to top.
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:PG
FA by:Jeremy How
FA on:Fall 2007
Grassy crack located about eight metres right of the left-end of the cliff.
Type:Top Rope
Height:8m
Rating:PG-
FA on:1999
An easy face located just right of the crack.
Type:Top Rope
Height:8m
Rating:R
FA on:1999
The obvious crack at the top of the Practice Wall with large horizontal cracks at three metres height.
Type:Trad
Height:6m
Rating:PG-
FA by: (solo)
FA on:1999
A short dreamy romp on big holds near the right end of the Practice Wall.
Type:Trad
Height:5m
Rating:R
FA by: (solo)
FA on:1999
Fun climbing on good holds, east side of the gully.
Type:Top Rope
Height:10m
Rating:X
The obvious crack in the Gully Wall. Good route.
Type:Trad
Height:14m
Rating:PG
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:1999
Start up a dihedral just right of a large overhanging section of rock. Finish on easier terrain above.
Type:Top Rope
Height:15m
Rating:?
Just to the right of the overhanging section of rock at the left end of the Main Wall is an obvious corner crack. Climb this feature to the top. Good exposure. Watch for broken glass.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Peter McVey
FA on:October 21, 2001
Negotiate a short but tricky roof crack to start, then move up to an offwidth crack above which is left of a larger roof.
Type:Trad
Height:16m
Rating:PG
FA by:Peter McVey
FA on:October 21, 2001
Close to the right end of the Main Wall is a beech tree growing out of the base of the cliff. Start on its roots or just to the left up a friction bulge. Reach a grassy ledge at six metres and follow the obvious corner crack to the top.
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Peter McVey
FA on:July 2, 2000
Start as per My Roots Are Showing. From the grassy ledge, follow a smaller crack line on the right and finish with an exposed move stepping right around the arete.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Peter McVey
FA on:October 21, 2001