The Castle is a short yet surprisingly extensive crag discovered by Jack Bennet in the spring of 2016. Although sections of the wall are visible from a major road that leads to may other climbing areas in Musquoidobit valley, it was completely unexplored by the climbing community until its discovery. Realizing he possibly had a new crag on his hands, Jack quickly recruited the help of Todd Foster and development of the area exploded. Bennet and Foster were soon joined by other active developers like Mick Levin and Shawn Smith who committed days of scrubbing and general suffering to the cause. The end result is a pleasant little crag, hosting over 24 mostly sport routes and one of the shortest approaches in Nova Scotia.
The large slab is the first wall you encounter on the approach to the Castle. It gets full sun for most of the day and is quite a bit warmer than the rest of the crag. It currently hosts only a single line but has the potential for a couple more.
The first wall you see as you drop down the hill and into the forest. The most impressive feature of this wall is easily the overhanging section with the black streak. It’s steep enough that you can climb on a few of the routes even in the rain.
Directly around the corner from the Gatehouse, this is the longest continuous section of rock at the Castle.
there are multiple lines that are in development to the right of Stoke-i-fy. If rock has been scrubbed, assume someone else is developing that line
Following the trail along the base of the cliff this wall is immediately after the 8 foot drop at the end of the Keep.
Flanking Tower is home to the first routes to be developed at the Castle. It offers a few quality Trad lines and some slightly steep sections of Sport climbing.
Located 3 minutes down the trail past the main crag. This wall is hosts to just a few routes but is definitely worth visiting due to the quality and height of the routes.
How to get there
From Musquodoboit Harbour turn North onto route 357 following signs for Meagher’s Grant/Middle Musquodoboit.Drive 1.6 kilometers and turn right onto Bayers Mill Rd, you will immediately cross a bridge over the Musquodoboit river. Turn left onto Rookery Way, this is a well maintained dirt road. Drive about 500 meters. You will pass some big boulders on your right, a private driveway on your left and then a gated gravel pit on your right. Immediately after the gravel pit gate there will be a level pullout on the left. Park here. You will no doubtably see a large boulder to the left of the parking, this is the Smirley boulder …..(rob say something here). To the right of the parking is an old clear logging path, follow that into a small slightly meandering foot path that leads uphill. Towards the top of the hill, the path will split. from here you should be able to see a large grey slab. That’s the “Moat”. Follow the trail down left, it crosses through the swamp and down a hill into the woods to the main crag.
severe pain, survival of which was taken as divine proof of innocence." Climb straight up the middle of the wall through overhang to steel carabiners at anchor. Excellent climb, varied climbing with consistent difficulty."
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