The Castle

Topography Information

Crag Description

The Castle is a short yet surprisingly extensive crag discovered by Jack Bennet in the spring of 2016. Although sections of the wall are visible from a major road that leads to may other climbing areas in Musquoidobit valley, it was completely unexplored by the climbing community until its discovery. Realizing he possibly had a new crag on his hands, Jack quickly recruited the help of Todd Foster and development of the area exploded. Bennet and Foster were soon joined by other active developers like Mick Levin and Shawn Smith who committed days of scrubbing and general suffering to the cause. The end result is a pleasant little crag, hosting over 24 mostly sport routes and one of the shortest approaches in Nova Scotia.

The Moat

The large slab is the first wall you encounter on the approach to the Castle. It gets full sun for most of the day and is quite a bit warmer than the rest of the crag. It currently hosts only a single line but has the potential for a couple more.

Gatehouse

The first wall you see as you drop down the hill and into the forest. The most impressive feature of this wall is easily the overhanging section with the black streak. It’s steep enough that you can climb on a few of the routes even in the rain.

Keep

Directly around the corner from the Gatehouse, this is the longest continuous section of rock at the Castle.

there are multiple lines that are in development to the right of Stoke-i-fy. If rock has been scrubbed, assume someone else is developing that line

Rampart

Following the trail along the base of the cliff this wall is immediately after the 8 foot drop at the end of the Keep.

Flanking Tower

Flanking Tower is home to the first routes to be developed at the Castle. It offers a few quality Trad lines and some slightly steep sections of Sport climbing.

Watch Tower

Located 3 minutes down the trail past the main crag. This wall is hosts to just a few routes but is definitely worth visiting due to the quality and height of the routes.

How to get there

From Musquodoboit Harbour turn North onto route 357 following signs for Meagher’s Grant/Middle Musquodoboit.Drive 1.6 kilometers and turn right onto Bayers Mill Rd, you will immediately cross a bridge over the Musquodoboit river. Turn left onto Rookery Way, this is a well maintained dirt road. Drive about 500 meters. You will pass some big boulders on your right, a private driveway on your left and then a gated gravel pit on your right. Immediately after the gravel pit gate there will be a level pullout on the left. Park here. You will no doubtably see a large boulder to the left of the parking, this is the Smirley boulder …..(rob say something here). To the right of the parking is an old clear logging path, follow that into a small slightly meandering foot path that leads uphill. Towards the top of the hill, the path will split. from here you should be able to see a large grey slab. That’s the “Moat”. Follow the trail down left, it crosses through the swamp and down a hill into the woods to the main crag.

Routes

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Located at the megaslab by the marsh, climb up the tallest line between the two large cracks. Start on the low angle bare slab, up through the small seam mid-way up, followed by ultra textured granite for a last-minute crux. Equip yourself with sticky shoes and confidence.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
Developer:Jack Bennet/Mick Levin
FA on:July 2016
Right of Slim Dusty. Climb through the ledges up into high corner.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Jack Bennet/Todd Foster
FA on:5/10/2016
Located at the right side of the crag, on the overhanging face. Begin below large block, move up into the steepness, climb flake and hit the clips! Awesome climb.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Quick Clips
FA by:Todd Foster/Jack Bennet
FA on:5/10/2016
A perfect route for the 5.11 climber looking to break into the next level! Step onto the ramp then make either technical moves through crimps, or bouldery moves through sloping ledges to pass through the first crux. From there, fight the pump through another 25 feet or so of 30°-40° climbing straight out of the Red River Gorge to claim The Golden Egg. On your way down, enjoy a philosophical debate with your belayer about whether a grade of 5.11d or 5.12a is more appropriate for someone of your specific height and reach.
Type:Sport
Height:11m
Anchor Type:Perma Draws
Anchor Accessibility:Lead
Rating:G
Developer:Todd Foster
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:July 20, 2016
Climb steep bolted crack left of Golden Egg. Stood as the open "doorknob" project for the better part of a year until Sean T put it down. Awaits a second ascent!
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
Developer:Sean Therien
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:September 2016
Right of No Rainbows. Follow three bolts up the slab, move through corner onto left face, and over bulge above to reach anchors.
Type:Sport
Height:13m
Anchor Type:Rings
Anchor Accessibility:Rappel
Rating:G
Developer:Jack Bennet
FA by:Jack Bennet/Todd Foster
FA on:July 13, 2016
"Ordeal - noun - an ancient test of guilt or innocence by subjection of the accused to
severe pain, survival of which was taken as divine proof of innocence." Climb straight up the middle of the wall through overhang to steel carabiners at anchor. Excellent climb, varied climbing with consistent difficulty."
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Quick Clips
Developer:Mick Levin
FA by:Mick Levin
FA on:September 2016
Just left of No Rainbows head up broken corners to small roof, then turn lip thru notch and stand to anchor.
Type:Sport
Height:12m
Anchor Type:Rings
Anchor Accessibility:Rappel
Rating:G
Developer:Mick Levin
FA by:Mick Levin
FA on:August 29 2016

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