The Spot

The Spot
Photo credit: Kris MacLellan

Routes

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Stem and jam the featured dihedral corner on the left of Cocksure. Excellent movements and good gear.
Type:Trad
Height:13m
Rating:G
FA by:Mick Levin
FA on:2010
Follow thin rails up steep face to gain a lower angle arete with fun holds. Starts 5m left of Bye Bye Beep.
Type:Sport
Height:13m
Rating:G
FA by:Mick Levin
FA on:2010
Work your way up big holds and cracks to a 2 bolt anchor and lower off. Great first lead for the aspiring sport climber.
Type:Sport
Height:20m
Rating:G
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:2010
Bolted by Sean Therien in 2010. This route starts on the fractured face right of Bye Bye Beep and climbs up to a dripping wet gash, then follows bolts up and right. Awaits a free ascent since it is so often wet.
Type:Sport
Height:30m
Rating:A0
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2010
Stellar climbing up a slightly overhung dihedral on good holds to a terrifying block held in place by magic. Follow crack to roof, bust right and finish up the perfect corner. Great gear, awesome positions, wild finish. Named after first ascensionist nearly severed tip off thumb cleaning the route and the core shot his rap line took from a razor sharp block falling on it.
Type:Trad
Height:30m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2010
Pull mini roof to gain sidepulls, delicate climbing leads to two bolt anchor.
Type:Sport
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:2010
"Scramble up to a bushy ledge then blast up the crack. Take the pain till the crack ends then bust left to finish as per Slice and Dice (rap off 2 bolt anchor).

Spelling on Lloyd?"
Type:Trad
Height:20m
Rating:PG
FA by:Seb Launcelot
FA on:2010
A fun sport route that starts easy and just gets harder and harder til the bitter end.
This route takes you to the big treed ledge and the Upper Tier. Anchor only has a single rap bolt due to lack of battery power.
Type:Sport
Height:30m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2010
"Accessed by rapping or climbing 5/7/8 first.

DJ Dyno's going away present to Nova Scotia: a 5 bolt technical crimpfest of pain done in a heavy mist. Dig it! [Apparently the first bolt is difficult to clip; strongly recommended that it be stick-clipped and/or pre clip draws if you rap in.]"
Type:Sport
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:John Bayne (aka DJ Dyno)
FA on:2010
Heinous wide crack with major pump factor. Beware of the guillotine like chockstone midway up.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2010
Follow bolts up a scooped slab between two crack systems, several metres left of the blank overhang below the Hollywood Bowl.
Type:Sport
Height:20m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2010
Climb the nice ramp up to the right, plugging gear into the crack as you go. A little bit of seepage at the bottom of the crack but a fun and easy lead. This climb takes you up into the Hollywood Bowl a nice little wall with 3 routes.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Dave Willsie
FA on:2010
This line follows weakness up left side of wall.
Type:Trad
Height:12m
FA by:Nate Smith
FA on:2010
Spicy climbing past 4 bolts.
Type:Sport
Height:13m
Rating:PG
FA by:Nate Smith
FA on:2010
Follow weakness up the right side of the wall.
Type:Trad
Height:13m
Rating:PG
FA by:Nate Smith
FA on:2010
Scramble up some scruffy ledges towards a small roof that you can see from the ground, with a shallow right-facing corner/dihedral above it.
Type:Mixed
Rating:PG
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:2010
No shortage of metal on this one! A long route with fun climbing and exposure throughout. Extend your clips to prevent rope drag. May the force be with you.
Type:Sport
Height:55m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2010
Climbs the wall across the gully from Phat Tuesday. Varied climbing leads up and right towards a notch in the roof. Mr. T describes the route as "spicy". Expect some runouts on the easier terrain.
Type:Sport
Height:50m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2010
One of the more popular lines here. Tricky slab climbing at the start leads to some easier climbing through a couple of mini roofs. Beware of rope drag. Great views.
Height:50m
Rating:G
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:2010
"Starts from a flat platform at the top of a gully (and partways up Phat Tuesday).
Semi steep climbing leads to some slab weavin' and then a little alpine adventure. Finish at Phat Tuesday anchors. One 60m rope will get you back to the platform."
Type:Sport
Height:40m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2010
Climbs the right side of the gully, down and right of the platform for BBW (#20). Not as easy as it looks. Climbs the blobby rock up and left through a notch, and then weaves around on easy slabs to the top.
Type:Sport
Height:45m
Rating:G
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:2010
Dirty slab climbing left of the roof.
Type:Sport
Height:20m
Rating:G
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:2010
Vertical climb leads up and through the industrial strength roof.
Type:Sport
Height:20m
Rating:G
FA by:Nate Smith
FA on:2010