Trout Cove

Crag Description

The cliff at Trout Cove is located in the community of Centreville on the Digby Neck. Although it is a relatively small crag, it offers high quality sport climbing on steep and solid basalt, with excellent holds and positive friction. Climbers first visited the place around 1995 with some early top-rope reconnaissance. In 1999 bolting began and routes were developed by some Digby Area climbers: Jeff Lockyer, Karel Allard, Marie-Josee McGraw, and former New Brunswicker Ghislain Losier. In 2000, visiting Brit John Harwood added a couple of top-rope lines. Although there are only ten routes here to date, the climbs are of such quality that a visit is well-deserved.

How to get there

From Digby, follow Route 217 west towards Digby Neck. About 24km past Digby, turn right at a sign for Centreville (this road is approximately 200m before reaching a Wilson’s Gas Station). Drive to the end of the road where you will see the cliff on the right hand side, facing the ocean. A gravel road just before the last house on the main road leads past the base of the cliff. Park in a small pull-out just in front of a boulder and follow the short trail from here (20 seconds) up to the cliff.

Note: The cliff is on private land and it faces a number of backyards in the community of Centreville. Climber/local relations have been excellent to date, but continued access depends on respectful behaviour of visiting climbers. Therefore please keep noise to a minimum, do not block the road, and keep the place clean.

Routes

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Start in front of a birch tree at the far left end of the crag. A short but fun route following two bolts to the top.
Type:Sport
Height:6m
Rating:G
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:2002
Two metres right of C'est Clair, climb up and then angle right past three bolts. Fantastic route.
Type:Sport
Height:11m
Rating:G
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:1999
Begin on a large boulder at the base. Climb straight up on crimps and jugs. Great moves all the way with some cool sequences to unlock.
Type:Sport
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:1999
Start about two metres right of the boulder, below a bulge and a black streak on the wall. Finish through a scooped weakness in the roof. Powerful stuff.
Type:Sport
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:1999
Steep climbing just left of the wide crack. Passes a roof on the lower wall using pockets. Climb the left side of the top-out roof. A couple of the clips through the roof are very difficult - it may be necessary to pre-clip the draws for this one. Labelled as a "Projet" in the guidebook.
Type:Sport
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:June 4, 2003
The obvious wide crack that splits the crag in two.
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:PG
FA by:Jeff Lockyer
FA on:1995
Nice climbing up to a bulge and into the scoop above (crux). Fun climbing through the roof on big holds. First top-roped around 1995. Bolted in 2002.
Type:Sport
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Eager
FA on:October 24, 2002
Start just left of You Snooze You Lose and work your way up past the small tree on the upper face.
Type:Top Rope
Height:12m
FA by:John Harwood
FA on:October 22, 2000 (TR)
Start in front of a dead spruce tree near the far right end of the crag. Follow a vertical seam up to the first bolt at about four metres. Continue into an alcove and out big holds through the roof. Belay at a tree at the top. A few variation starts are available.
Type:Sport
Height:11m
Rating:G
FA by:Kate Robinson
FA on:1999
A top-roped line at the far right end of the crag. Start right of the dead spruce tree in a crack and climb straight up to finish at the belay tree on top.
Type:Top Rope
Height:11m