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Raptor Crag

Topography Information

Crag Description

Raptor Crag is a technical rock climbing face located in the Musquodoboit Valley in Nova Scotia. It offers excellent rock with a handful of traditional climbing routes and trail amenities. Climbing ranges in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.10a, with promise of more to come. The wall is a unique and curious feature in the valley, visible from the trail but unclimbed until visited by Kris MacLellan and Anthony Lord in July of 2016. Raptor Crag joins the ranks of walls that were hiding in plain sight, passed by numerous hikers, cyclists and dog walkers every day.

Access to the bottom of the crag is done a few ways. From the top of the crag a sturdy tree serves as either a good rappel anchor to the ground, or as a first stage to access the bolted anchors for toproping. Climber’s discretion. Please use tree bark protectors.

To climbers and future route developers: the rock is sharp and edgy. Keep your wits about you – minimize swinging on the lowering line. If you rappel in, be prepared to ascend out.

At the foot of the crag is a relatively flat, stable, and very convenient rock platform from which to belay topropers. Here there is a large rock with good trad placements with which to build floor anchors. Observe personal anchor protocols when working in this area.

Note: This Cliff is on crown (public) land

  • Climb at your own risk
  • Leave no trace – pack out trash
  • We have no authority to advise on the legality of camping, fires, or other human activities on this land. For more information, see rules around Crown Land in Nova Scotia

How to get there

Raptor Crag is located in Musquodoboit Harbour, Nova Scotia. It is part of the same valley system that includes popular existing climbing areas like Railway Crag and G-spot.

  • From Halifax, drive 41 km along Hwy 107 until it terminates.
  • Turn right on to highway 7, and continue to Musquodoboit Harbour.
  • Turn left before the RCMP detachment onto #357
  • Finally, turn right onto Bayers Mill Road and follow until it ends.
  • Observe parking rules here – signage is clear and simple. Parking is ample.
  • From here, head North on the Musquodoboit Trailway for 2 km to reach the trail head. Bring a bicycle to shorten this to a pleasant 5-7 minute ride.
  • Google Maps link shows the location from space, though we believe the crag isn’t visible

The crag overlooks the Musqudoboit Trailway system, at approximately the 2 km marker. The cliff is below what is popularly known as the Bayer Lake Lookoff Point (official MTA map). Access is gained by hiking the Bayer’s Lake Lookoff portion of the Admiral Lake Trail Loop, starting at the wooden bridge located after the 2km marker at the south end of Bayers Lake (see image). Hiking trail begins at the wooden bridge and is marked with red trail markers.

A few hundred meters past the trail head you will find a comfortable outhouse. This is maintained by the Musquodoboit Trailways Association. Please respect it.

Hiking time from the trail head to the top of the crag is approximately 15 minutes. Access to the lookoff point is indicated by a prussik cord tied to the trail marker (see image)

Turning right at the marker will bring you to Rock-In-Tree, the staging area. Climbers are advised to rack up here and stash gear behind Rock-In-Tree.

Be advised, people do hike past Rock-In-Tree, and will occasionally check it out now that the path has been cleared of windthrow. Mind your gear, though we’ve had no problems.

Routes

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Start same as “Into the Blue” on flat block at the waters edge. Climb up to the first bolt and onto the small bulge up right. Crux moves between first and second bolt.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Todd Foster and Gavin King
FA on:9/1/2013
From single bolt belay anchor at bottom of ramp, clip high first bolt and pull long boulder problem up thin crack to gain deep jugs. Trend left along narrow ledge, following bolts to sloper crux blind throw. Then head straight up hand crack and finish right on good holds to rings. Excellent climb with great exposure.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Todd Foster
Start the same as 'Where Evil Lurks' but after the second bolt head right up and over the bulge going to the right of the tree. Cruxes are at the 2 bulges but well protected. Pull the second bulge and climb easy slab to the top. Possible to top out here onto the ledge and access Meatgrinder rappel area.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Alec Manley/Todd Foster
FA on:6/1/2014
The first bolted line as you come down into E-Gully from the cabin. Stick clip or reach the first bolt and climb through 3 bolts of boulderie moves and the obvious brain sticking off the face to gain the first ledge. Off the ledge work some smaller holds and face climbing to the top. Has a mix of many styles.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Alec Manley/Todd Foster
FA on:7/1/2014

Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Alec Manley/Todd Foster
FA on:5/1/2014
"Free the Mind" climbs the overhangs up the middle of the wall between Hurricane Corner and Meatgrinder Rappel. Climb to the top of the hanging rope ladder, reach up for large incut jug. Leave the ladder by moving your feet up into high smears. Climb through the steep dihedral up onto the slab to access a two bolt hanging belay. The second pitch continues up and right through the short but steep overhang. Crest the overhang and proceed up through the right facing dihedral. Top out and belay from the large tree. (Rap anchors will likely be placed in the future). The route can be climbed in one long pitch but rope drag would be an issue.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings, Natural
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:10/1/2014
Start the same as Sleeper clipping bolts out left. At the third bolt transition out onto the face. Continue up through balancy moves to a two bolt anchor below the Lunch Bucket Ledge.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:10/1/1012
Starts left of Sleeper Cell...Tree at base of route. Good face climbing leads to exposed mini roofs and then the "thank GOD jug" gift from the rock climbing Gods! Keep your cool and gun for the big ledge where the belay awaits. The top out holds were covered in ice during the FA which made for some extra spicey moves.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:10/1/1012
In the "sport" amphitheatre up the hill from Magistar Ludi you will find this 5.9. Easy climbing in a bit of a dirty corner leads to some nice left working moves. Bust out to the right onto the face itself...clip the last bolt then fight the pump thru the runout to the anchors. **Rock is a little hollow from last bolt to the anchors hence the runout sorry....***
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:10/10/2014
Rap into a Bolts from the new rappel above the Sagar/Smizzle mega project..put the draws in on the way down...some longer draws help with clips etc..Climb out on immaculate steep orange granite while enjoying spectacular exposure and wild positions! Climbing in NS does not get much better.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Bolts
FA by:Sean Therien/Jay Darrow
FA on:8/28/2015
Rap into Bolts(rings) from new rappel.Burly moves right off the station lead to steep thin tips and then more difficulties await. Finsh up same ramp as Welcome to the Machine.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Bolts
FA by:Sean Therien/Todd Foster
FA on:9/5/2015
A direct finish to gargoyle. Climbs the first two bolts of gargoyle and then finishes straight up an interesting dihedral. Almost all the holds in the second half are underclings or sidepulls. Makes for some interesting moves.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Shawn Smith/Gareth Ryan
FA on:10/11/2015
3rd route at what is now known as "the hanging garden" at Mainface has been equiped...it climbs from the same belay as Full Metal Jacket..goes up and left to a lowering off station...this route is approx 5.10 has 7(?) bolts and is cool because it neither touches the ground or top out. Don't Google 'The Cremaster' muscle at work.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Bolts
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:9/1/2015

Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Gavin King/Todd Foster

Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Todd Foster/Gavin King
Scramble up to high belay of Anniversary Waltzes/Four Minute Smiler, then scurry left for 4m along/behind broken rock to comfortable ledge belay. Follow bolts up weakness in pristine smooth rock on great incuts to steeper terrain. Make tenuous moves along incipient cracks before a powerful steeper finish. Well protected and exciting climbing!
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Todd Foster/ Mick Levin
"The Weight of History" (5.10c 32m M5/2) the tallest line at First Face! 10m left of Pyramid, follow five bolts for 25m straight up the face past two distinct and well protected cruxes before gaining a ledge and angling right up an exposed dihedral for the last 7m (T5.7G) to rings above Indian Summer. [SC edit: Climb directly from the ground to gain a ledge where Scrape and Pillage starts. Climb the starting moves of SaP to slight overhang and then follow bolts up and left (SaP angles up right here).]
Type:Mixed
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Mick Levin/Todd Foster
The route starts on a mossy ledge in the middle of the crag. Work the slopy crack up to a prominent nose and choose to work straight up, or use the crack on the right to reach the first anchors. Pitch 2 starts on the ledge above the first rings, Follow the dark (often wet) flake, which is surprislingly positive in any condition, to a couple of chockstones in the large horizontal. Work out onto the bulge and up the tricky slopers to gain the crux. Follow the face using small pinches and crimps to a slopy ledge, then use the crack to reach the top anchors.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Derek Hatfield/ Todd Foster
FA on:Sept, 2015
Starts on the upper ledge, 3m left of pitch #2 of B.O.B. Climb the easy steps in the corner, leading to a large detached block. Enter behind the block through a cave-like opening, and continue up the chimney for the top out. Use rap bolts for "Battle of the Bulge" or walk down
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Derek Hatfield
FA on:27/09/2015
The railing at the top of the crag is unsafe for use as an anchor. There are no anchor bolts at the top. Please have the necessary gear and knowledge to build a trad anchor at the top of any route that finishes at or under the railing.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Guard Rail
FA by:Todd Foster/Alec Manley
FA on:Fall 2013
The route left of Terminus. climb up to the small ledge and up around or through the right side of the overhang. Avoid going left at the small ledge due to some loose blocks.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Todd Foster/Shawn Smith
FA on:5/1/2015
Climbs the short steep overhang left of Defibrillator. Start up through the dihedral and move left following the good holds to the rings. Awkward first moves.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Shawn Smith/Todd Foster
FA on:5/1/2015
Ghostwriter: is a writer who's work is officially credited to another person. Located on a long slab capped with a small dihedral and roof on the far right side of Lower Railway Crag.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:5/13/2015
Stared at by many over the years...the white streak at the Railway Crag has long been one of the seemingly last great lines...but early explorations deemed it unclimbable. This line starts to the right of Oyzymandaeus (which with a LOT of cleaning could be returned to its former glory....) Climb out a roof and then work up the face to a ledge(one could belay here and split the route into 2 pitches to avoid rope drag or just use a realllllyyyy long runner on the bolt.) Bust right off the ledge and climb the gorgeous streak of perfect granite. Top out at the safety railing.

Bolted in winter of 2015....injury and illness prevented me fro getting on till Sept 2015..thanks to all who waited to give me first crack at it and props to Shawn Smith and Jack Bennet for the send!

The railing at the top of the crag is unsafe for use as an anchor. There are no anchor bolts at the top. Please have the necessary gear and knowledge to build a trad anchor at the top of any route that finishes at or under the railing.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:08/29?/2015
Farthest left route on the left most slab section of railway. Looks blank but once you find the holds it goes. Blatant theft of a line Todd cleaned and toiled on by climbing wizard Gareth Ryan
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Gareth Ryan/Shawn Smith
FA on:Fall 2015
Originally scrubbed and deemed impossible by Sean T, bolted by Mick, snaked by Shawn
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Shawn Smith/Gareth Ryan
FA on:9/4/2016
route at the far left of the wall
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
face climb right of Electric Fire
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings

Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
Starts under roof and climb up right of arret
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Project - Todd Foster
at the parking spot there will be a little wall covered in spray paint. follow the trail on the left side of the graffiti wall and veer left. follow the trail left and look for a large spruce that has had a bunch of limbs trimmed off. from there look down towards the void and carefully scramble down. once on the ledge you will find a two bolt anchor (no rings). rap off these down the right side of the arete below. about 30 feet below there will be a small ledge. at the ledge the wall will pull you around the corner, go with it and follow the bolts down to a 2x8 foot "ledge" you will find a set of bolts here with rings, this is where the route begins with a hanging belay.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Todd Foster, Sean Therien
FA on:9/1/2014
This route was rapped and explored during a wintery fall visit and then bolted 12 months later. It took almost 2 years to get back there to do the free ascent. There is a obvious 2 bolt ring anchor at the top of the wall...rap in to a belay station then rap again to a small pinicle of rock at the base of the wall. The route is 70m long so you will need 2 ropes to do the rappels or one long 70M static line. The first pitch is long approx 20bolts...Great climbing super pumpy. second pitch is shorter and has one of the wildest features in NS climbing....the 20 foot long see thru TUFA!!! Rock quality on route is good..but as with all Cape Clear routes there is a chance of some crumbly stuff. Get up there and GET SOME! On a foot note...This route lay semi dormant and only 98% bolted for over a year and saw some action from some climbers from away...Always be prepared at Cape Clear you may be getting on a partialy bolted route or something not yet fully cleaned ..I,m talking TV sized blocks comming off in your lap and smoking your belayer.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Sean Therien/Todd Foster
FA on:Fall 2012
Shares first bolt with Honey Moon Sweet, then traverses left out to aréte. Enjoy the view.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Bolts
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:fall 2014
Climb obvious less than vertical corner on East face of the point. Small gear in double crack system to hands at top. Walk off or rap on rings.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:fall 2014
Climb the obvious impressive overhanging dihedral with thin finger crack. Bouldery start on good gear. Watch out for the Sting in the Tail! Walk off, rap route to retrieve gear.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:fall 2014
A right-hand conner crack at the Southern most aspect of The Point. This start with good gear to hands near top. Start is 5 meters to West of Zombie Moose. Walk off, rap route to clean gear.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Rap Rings
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:fall 2014
Two bolts protect a thin seam on a steep face. Easy start to bouldery finish. Second bolt is hard to clip without committing. Walk off. Build trad anchor to retrieve gear.
Type:Sport
FA by:Mike Van
FA on:2000?
Start on right corner of West wall up balance start to bolt, then blaze up featured rails on good holds and crimps to crack system. Brilliant line up bold bolts. Stick clip recommended. Shares first bolt with Room With a View.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rap Rings
FA by:Mike Van
FA on:2000?
An introductory steep corner with good gear and rap rings at top. Start is on good holds, but no protection up to 3 meters where crack system begins. Work left facing layback crack with good face holds and feet, plugging gear as needed. Start is 4 meters left of Zombie Moose or 5 meters right of Sting in the Tail.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Rap Rings
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Fall 2014
Obvious and impressive aréte on the Southern aspect of The Point 1 meter right of the Prow. Start as for the Prow (gear if needed) or stick clip first bolt then move up thru dynamic moves to gain arête and south face, then follow bolts and strenuous moves to bolt anchors. Decent – lower off and walk to top of cliff to retrieve anchor gear.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Bolts
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Fall 2015
Start 3 meters right of The Prow and Post Anal Tail just right of small overhang. Stick clip first bolt. Start up small arête on small holds to second bolt on right facing overhang. Move down and left across shield to gain right facing corner to top. Bolt anchors.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Bolts
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Fall 2015
The obvious chimney corner left of Zombie Moose. Easy access top rope anchors allow you to thrutch and thrash to your hearts content in relative safety. Can be led with #5 or #6 Camalots.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Fall 2015

Anchor Type:Bolts
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Fall 2015

Anchor Type:Bolts
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Fall 2015
Start same as HMS and Room with a View, then follow bots on thin crimps to top. Bolt anchors.
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Fall 2015

FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Fall 2015

FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Fall 2015
Right hand corner. 5.4 Climb obvious chiminey crack with awesome gear on funky big jugs.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Spring 2015
Grab obvious massive phallus and start climbing - bulges on blunt corner on good gear and surprise jugs to garden ledges then up nice clean double cracks to tree belay.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Matt Doherty, Aaron Richard
FA on:Spring 2015
Nice gear route up fractured line with small roof. Tree belay
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Spring 2015
Middle route left variation 5.9+ 10m - thin gear up seams to small roof then follow splitter crack to tree belay.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Spring 2015
Right variation 5.10+ 10m - up hand crack to thin section under roof on small cams. Plug gear under overhang - then left thru hidden jigs to splitter crack and tree belay.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Spring 2015
Bold moves up horizontal seams to shallow corner on jugs.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Michael Orr
FA on:Spring 2015
Chossy and loose line of weakness climbing out of left gully.
Type:Top Rope
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Sarah Gutowsky
FA on:27/09/14
Bolted line from left gully up left face to hidden ring anchor.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Mick Levin
FA on:27/09/14
Up left river side arete
Type:Top Rope
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Mick Levin
FA on:27/09/14
Left line on the river face
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Mick Levin
FA on:27/09/14
Right TR line on the river face
Type:Top Rope
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Nathan Benjamin
FA on:27/09/14
Beautiful right side river arete
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Andrew Nette, Todd Foster
FA on:22/08/14
First line right of Tomcat Combat
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Todd Foster, Andrew Nette
FA on:22/08/14
Rightmost line, begins with a short ramp
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Andrew Nette, Todd Foster
FA on:22/08/14
A short route to the right of "A Quick One" down at the heavy petter wall. Large dyno at the finish
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Shawn Smith, Jack Bennet
FA on:31/08/2015
Start as for Alpamayo, at ledge continue straight up weakness on gear to horizontal (5.9). Climb huge granite tufa past a bolt to jug rest. Clip here and make compression moves on pinches, gain sidepull and stance for final bolt, step high (crux) and toss for jug at the lip.
Type:Mixed
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Mick Levin, Sarah Gutowsky
FA on:17/10/2015
Rap off slung boulder as for Excellent Adventure to small shrubbed belay ledge above the lake. Head up and right along ramp with good gear in dihedral seam until gaining ledge and comfortable stance. Collect yourself and head straight up to higher, thinner seam with small insecure gear placements. Keep it together for a few moves and top out 30cm left of Excellent Adventure. Awesome line.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Anchor Type:Gear
Rating:PG
Developer:Mick Levin, Sarah Gutowsky
The line starts up fractured blocks (but solid for the most part) and goes through the corner system to the left of Four Minute Smiler - rock quality improves with height as does steepness, and it ends through the slightly overhanging dihedral with great exposure. Extra bolt added after first ascent.
Type:Mixed
Anchor Type:Natural
Rating:G
Developer:Rich LaPaix / Sean Cassidy
FA on:Sept 2011
This climb follows a clean crack on the upper tier, at the left end of the crag. Starts approx. 10-15 m from the corner route (#3 - Chagrin) and laybacks up to a finger-sized crack at the end. Zig (the consummate gentleman) graciously forfeited the free ascent by hanging near the top - in deference to Rich's efforts to clean the line.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:A0
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:2006
open project, bolted by ricardo in spring 2010
Type:Sport
Two open projects were started by Ghislain Losier at the bottom of the E-Gully (north side). Partially bolted; they tackle the steep wall via an arete and a dihedral.
Type:Sport
Height:12m
Rating:PG
To reach this climb go to the far left side of the cliff - past where it becomes discontinuous, until you reach a steep wall. Squeeze your way up the obvious chimney. Quite fun and surprisingly easy.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Rich LaPaix (solo)
FA on:May 2008
Lef side of short wall at left end of crag. Follow flakes and crack to top.
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:PG
FA by:Jeremy How
FA on:Fall 2007
The moderate layback crack with a vegetated finish at the extreme left of the crag.
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Kelly
FA on:May 2006
La Paix. Climb the face just left of De-Railed, passing 4 bolts and finishing at a tree belay. Dave proposed the name in honour of the route's co-developer.
Type:Sport
Height:6m
Rating:G
FA by:Dave Peabody
FA on:June 2009
This climb follows the obvious arete at the left end of the crag. Gear doesn't look great. A harder variation just right of the arete is also a popular top-rope problem (a.k.a. Lazy J, 5.10).
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Clarence Barrett
FA on:1985
Start in a dirty corner just up and left from the toe of the spine. After eight metres the route joins Flakies and Harvest Moons for ten metres and then veers left into a layback "v" slot. Continue up the ramp to a large tree on the sloping, gravelly belay ledge. From the ledge, climb the 20 metre chimney to the top of pillar (easy scramble off of pillar). Keeps Santas slim and trim after all the cookies at Xmas.
Type:Trad
Height:50m
Rating:PG
FA by:Chris Hayes
FA on:October 26, 2002
This climb is located several hundred metres east of the Fairy Hole (near the end of the beach) and is a little difficult to access from the beach at high tide. Climb a vertical crack up a pillar that leads to a notch. From the notch, continue up a dirty, crumbling pillar to the top.
Type:Trad
Height:25m
Rating:PG-
FA by:John Read
FA on:1973
Climb up on crimps to a ledge, then follow left side of a flake that starts with an undercling. An easier finish (5.8, gear protected) moves right from the undercling and then up to the top. Aidas recommends stick-clipping the first bolt.
Type:Sport
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Aidas Rygelis
FA on:Summer 2008
The final small crag in a row of three largish outcrops. Line takes very obvious straight finger crack line.
Type:Trad
Height:5m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Alan Wilson (solo)
FA on:August 13 2003
Climb the left-arching hand crack to a corner and finish on the vertical crack directly above.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:Summer 2000
The low-angle slab littered with cracks located at the left end of the cliff is very popular with first time climbers. It can be climbed numerous ways. Trees are available at the top for anchors.
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:PG
The sound that Tigger makes. A short but enjoyable romp at the far left end of the crag, on a small buttress separated from the main cliff. To be a legitimate ascent, the aspiring climber must accurately pronounce the route's name three times.
Type:Trad
Height:6m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Dave Edgell
FA on:Spring 1996
Stem and jam the featured dihedral corner on the left of Cocksure. Excellent movements and good gear.
Type:Trad
Height:13m
Rating:G
FA by:Mick Levin
FA on:2010
"Cleaned crack in the slabby wall at the left end of the crag.  Good little climb, sustained.

Further right is the Main Wall area, below the tourist look-off with the railings. "
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:March 2006
The prominent hand/fist crack in the centre of the Left Wall. Climbed in running water, the start may unfortunately never be completely dry.
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:November 11, 2006

Type:Top Rope
Height:100m
Rating:?
Climb the steep face on the left side of the main buttress. Easy climbing to the first bolt and then the wall kicks out on thin face holds leading to a v-slot and the top.
Type:Sport
Height:6m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:August 2002
The overhanging face and crack on the left side of the wall. Looks fun.
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:G
FA by:Jeremy How, Sandrine Corbin, Rich LaPaix
FA on:October 2007
A fun corner crack. Start in behind the big boulders at the very bottom and wedge yourself in between the face and the small boulder. Climb directly up the corner to a small tree. Pass the tree. A cleansing experience.
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Hayes
FA on:Spring 2000
Walk for a few minutes left along the base of the main crag to a shorter cliff-band with a clean and enticing right-facing corner crack. Climb the enjoyable corner, stepping left to finish. Good gear and consistent difficulty.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:May 5, 2002
Climb an easy crack (5.6) until the wall steepens. At this point traverse left (5.8) to belay at the base of an inside corner. Climb the corner to the top (5.6). [Note: this route is located on the upper left tier.]
Type:Trad
Height:55m
Rating:PG
FA by:Mark MacKenzie
FA on:Summer 2001
A great route - steep and sustained all the way. Climb up and left along the blocky ramp to the triangularish block that sticks a little way out from the cliff. Cast yourself overboard, up and left again using any available crack systems. Head up towards the overhanging pinnacle, skirting it on the right side to finish. [Note: keelhauling involves being dragged under the keel of a ship (across sharp barnacles) and up the other side - rarely alive but always chewed up.]
Type:Trad
Height:20m
Rating:G
FA by:Andy Birtwistle, Sean Cassidy
FA on:September 6, 1997
For the tragically hip, swing back and forth up the short arete at the left end of the main cliff. At about two-thirds height, a horizontal crack will take a 2.5 friend but this isn't essential.
Type:Sport
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Jonathan Graham
FA on:June 30, 2002
An unusually featured little wall at the far left end of the cliff. Initially cleaned and top-roped by Andrea Makkay during a Climb Nova Scotia route development day in the fall of 2001. Often bouldered as a warm up.
Type:Trad
Height:5m
Rating:R
FA on:2001
Climb the right-facing corner and crack system starting at the left end of a comfortable belay ledge.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Amelia Hunt
FA on:Summer 2000
So called because it avoids the alluring direct start and finish. From a spruce tree on a dirty ledge, move rightwards along a ramp, then follow the vague crackline until it is possible to traverse right to a crack in a nose. Move up and back left to finish. Originally cleaned and top-roped by McVey and Parker.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:September 8, 2002
Climb the crack that starts about 6 feet up on the far left side of the wall.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:2008
A nice easy romp at the far left end of the crag, following a crackline.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:G
FA by:Barb Stary
FA on:October, 1999
A short route up a low-angle slab and thin crack just above the water. [Note: I've never been quite sure where this route is, but my best guess is that it is somewhere in the lower left slabby section of the cliff photo shown on the previous page.]
Type:Trad
Height:6m
Rating:PG
FA by:Alan Gilchrist
FA on:May 22, 1992
Climbs the pale overhanging wall at the far left end of the crag. Start by scrambling up a gully to a ledge and belay on Anniversary Waltzes. Climb up and left past blocky ledges to a prominent roof and a fixed pin. Step to the right onto an overhanging face with good incut holds. Follow the crack up the headwall to top out. Very strenuous with some great moves.
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:October 8, 2001
From the Clyburn Valley, you can see an impressive-looking pinnacle at the west end of the rock exposures. This is the Splinter. Climb up the east side of the pillar by stemming between the splinter and the main wall. After a few metres you can transfer onto the block and climb an easy slab to the top. Descend the same way you came up.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:John Read
FA on:1975
Climb the bolted face on the left side of the wall, just inside the woods.
Type:Sport
Height:8m
Rating:G
FA by:Sandrine Corbin
FA on:Fall 2007
Park at Gullivers Cove and walk left along the shore under the impressively loose and overhanging cliff until you reach a point near the right end where the high water line reaches the crag. The shattered basalt is a little more solid here but loose blocks and expanding flakes are still plentiful. Start on a flat boulder a few meters left of the tidal section under a shallow dihedral at half height. Climb the wall on thin blades and bugaboos with occasional hook moves to reach the dihedral and some wire placements behind hollow blocks (A2). Move left at a hand jam size horizontal crack to reach a more solid easy dihedral with excellent cam placements and follow to tree belay (A1 and free).
Type:Aid
Height:18m
FA by:Steve Punshon, Nate Smith and Sean Kelly
FA on:December 8, 2007
This route starts just past the north end of the cobbly beach to the left of a shallow cave-like indentation. Follows a faint crackline and occasional fine quartzite seam. The route runs at a slight angle and ends at trees near the top. The gear is poor (only the occasional small nut) but the climbing is relatively easy.
Type:Trad
Height:48m
Rating:R
FA by:Peter McVey
FA on:August 6, 2000
Start two metres left of a small birch tree and just right of the cave. Climb up the blocky corner to reach a flake on the right hand wall (near the top) and move right and up past the flake (crux) to finish.
Type:Trad
Height:32m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 14, 1987
Grassy crack located about eight metres right of the left-end of the cliff.
Type:Top Rope
Height:8m
Rating:PG-
FA on:1999
At left side of the crag, surmount a short overhang to a ledge then climb up to the roof.  Traverse left on fingerholds to the finishing slab. 
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:May 7, 2005
Start in front of a birch tree at the far left end of the crag. A short but fun route following two bolts to the top.
Type:Sport
Height:6m
Rating:G
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:2002
Also known as "Bigfoot". Climb the over-hanging crack to a small ledge in the middle of the face. Follow up slab and top out at the highest point of the vertical outcrop (top out is a little runout - watch it).
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:PG
FA by:John Bowles, Chris Eager, and Ellen Forhan
FA on:Summer 2003
The obvious line at the left side of the crag. Avoid the pile of choss on the left, following cracks and features to the top
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Derek Hatfield/ Martin Michael
FA on:2010
Located at the megaslab by the marsh, climb up the tallest line between the two large cracks. Start on the low angle bare slab, up through the small seam mid-way up, followed by ultra textured granite for a last-minute crux. Equip yourself with sticky shoes and confidence.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
Developer:Jack Bennet/Mick Levin
FA on:July 2016
Use the Elephant's Foot to gain access to the Apron. Follow the slab up and left to gain the bottom of the ramp. Climb up the ramp into the top corner, then follow the obvious horizontal hand crack left to blocky, bouldery movement up and out. Fantastic climbing, surprisingly overhanging.
Type:Trad
Height:22m
Anchor Type:Rings
Developer:Kris MacLellan and Anthony Lord
FA by:Kris MacLellan and Anthony Lord
FA on:August 2017
Climb De-Railed to halfway height then traverse horizontally right for 4 m with increasing difficulty and sketchy gear to reach a groove. Climb this past an awkward move to the top. Great fun. Double ropes an advantage.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:Spring 2003
About halfway between the De-Railed buttress and the main crag is a short clean face behind a pruned birch with flagging tape. Start on the left side of the face and climb diagonally right on good edges to reach a slabby arete. Step up onto the arete (crux) and climb it to an in-situ sling. Rap off this or continue scrambling up to tree belays. A fine but rather intimidating micro-route!
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:R
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:Spring 2003
Start right of the arete and after four metres traverse rightwards to gain a series of cracks.
Type:Top Rope
Height:7m
The deep V-notch dihedral that is capped by an angled roof. Move left slightly at the roof and then back right to exit the dihedral, finishing on the slab above. Funkier than it looks inside the dihedral and a little stiff for the grade.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:October 6, 2002
Climb small gully into the nasty off-width. Top-roped by Sean Therien in hiking boots. Should be leadable if you have big gear and a penchant for suffering.
Type:Top Rope
Height:7m
Start at the very toe of the second tier spine on the left hand side of Cape Clear. Follow the prow all the way up. About two-thirds up is a belay ledge (avoid loose flakes here). Continue up the prow to finish on a detached pillar (easy scramble off of pillar).
Type:Trad
Height:55m
Rating:PG
FA by:Chris Eager
FA on:October 26, 2002
This climb is located approximately 400 m west of the Fairy Hole and is accessed from the beach. Climb the left-leaning slab from the middle of a small beach area. Exit via the left hand ridge to avoid an overhanging erosion bank at the top. A little dirty and the pro is somewhat sparse.
Type:Trad
Height:25m
Rating:PG-
FA by:John Read
FA on:1973
Start low on a good block and move up to the ledge. Continue up, using juggy sidepulls and gastons. Finish on big jug to the right and top-out.
Type:Top Rope
Height:11m
FA by:Aidas Rygelis (TR)
FA on:2008
Start one metre right of First Steps, climb slabby face up to a bolt. Then up and right past a small roof to gain the buttress on the right. Fun laybacking up the arete to reach the anchors. A cleansing experience.
Type:Mixed
Height:7m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:August 2002
Climb the short, crumbly corner at the left end of the main area with a hollow flake jammed into it. Not recommended.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:PG-
FA on:1992
Near the far left end of the cliff, scramble up a right-angling gully that starts behind a clump of gnarled trees. You can belay at the base of the gully by these trees or rig a gear belay on a ledge a little higher up. Follow the gully up to a right-leaning dihedral and arete which takes you to the top. A fun outing.
Type:Trad
Height:24m
Rating:PG
FA by:Chris Dale
FA on:September 1978
Starting below and just east of The Splinter, climb the southeast arete of a large block which is directly behind (north of) The Splinter. Near the top of the block, a large detour was taken during the first ascent on the east face, traversing right and back left again to re-join the arete. Apparently the route was originally climbed in cold weather with gloves on! In milder conditions a Zig or Zag would likely be unnecessary - unless of course you’re a smoker. Climbed in one or two pitches.
Type:Trad
Height:50m
Rating:PG
FA by:John Read
FA on:1975
Follow thin rails up steep face to gain a lower angle arete with fun holds. Starts 5m left of Bye Bye Beep.
Type:Sport
Height:13m
Rating:G
FA by:Mick Levin
FA on:2010
Climb the crack 15' left of Eve.
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:G
FA by:Jeremy How
FA on:Fall 2007
The obvious right facing corner.  Excellent line. 
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Rich LaPaix
FA on:March, 2006
Located on the right-hand arête of a short wall on the left side of the crag. Make a few moves to reach the horizontals, continue up the arête or move into the middle of the face and go straight up (harder but cooler). FA team unsure of grade.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:Rich LaPaix
FA on:November 1, 2008
Climbs a prominent rib approximately 400 m from the north end of the beach. At high tide the bottom of the route is underwater so use caution as a retreat may be out of the question. Here's the original description found in Climb Cape Breton [it sure sounds awful but who am I to say]: "Ascend crack system keeping to the right of vegetation and ascend extremely crumbly volcanic material directly below overhanging soil. (At this point route can be dirty and wet). Pull up and over soil bank at obvious weakness on large root. Continue through trees to highway." Originally climbed in three pitches, I suspect it could be done in one or two at most.
Type:Trad
Height:60m
Rating:R
FA by:John Read
FA on:1975
Climb the face on the right side of the main buttress. Up the bulge and then follow weaknesses straight up the face. Talk about committing.
Type:Sport
Height:5m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:August 2002
Bolted line near left side that ascends a scoop feature. Probably goes comfortably on gear. First route developed at this mini-crag.
Type:Sport
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Kevin Brooks
FA on:December 29, 2004
Starting two metres right of the birch tree, climb a shallow dihedral past two bolts. Above the second bolt traverse left, underclinging the small roof to the arete. Follow the arete straight up to a two-bolt anchor. It is possible to rap here or continue up the right-angling flake to top out (5.9).
Type:Sport
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:September 1991
An easy face located just right of the crack.
Type:Top Rope
Height:8m
Rating:R
FA on:1999
Named by the phosphorescent "Hanging Beef" Matthews, this line begins as for Keelhauled, but heads straight up when you reach the block that sticks out like a gangplank. Walk the plank, or fire up the gear-eating crack. Continue straight to the top or finish on Comfortably Numb.
Type:Trad
Height:19m
Rating:G
FA by:Colin Matthews, Sean Cassidy
FA on:September 6, 1997
Climb the steep crack near the left end of the main wall (starting next to a large boulder). A chockstone halfway up the crack moves a little, but seems to be solid. (Tango Variation - 5.10c G FFA: Andy Birtwistle, Sean Cassidy, Fall 1997): Start as for Hummingbird Boogie but break left along the left-rising handrail to rejoin the original line of Doin' the Rustle.
Type:Trad
Height:14m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Brewis
FA on:Spring 1996
Start as for Lapdancer, but from the first ledge trend rightwards to the roof.  Traverse right with increasing difficulty. Tricky exit to reach the shrubby ledge. 
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:December 2004
About two metres right of An Dealg, climb up to a small overhang with underclings. Pull over the bulge and get feet high to reach good holds to finish.
Type:Trad
Height:5m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Alan Wilson
FA on:September 14, 2003
Start as for The Egg. From the corner half-way up, traverse right along a thin dyke to the right side of a roof. Top out here. Very nice.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:Summer 2000
Climb the steep left wall of the dihedral to a ledge. Then follow the left edge of the face past two bolts. The name was apparently inspired by some equipment that Nick Sagar took to his high school grad.
Type:Sport
Height:10m
Rating:PG
Angle up and right along an unprotected and awkward layback (5.9) until you are below a short roof. Pull the well-protected roof (crux) and continue up the excellent crack that widens from small fingers to perfect hand jams. During the first ascent, a bat chirped in protest from within the crack, staking its territory. It is possible to avoid the crux roof and the bat by scooting to your right and finishing on Shoe Sacrifice.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:June 1996
Start wedged behind the large boulder and follow a crack past a small tree. Top out on the sloping ledge.
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Hayes
FA on:Spring 2000
Another grovelling chimney from the skinny Santa ho ho ho!!!!
Height:25m
FA by:Chris Hayes
FA on:November 7, 2002
Just to the left of Gobbles is an aesthetic inside-corner scrubbed for three hours by Nicole Brooks, who subsequently named the route Dirt Bag for a variety of reasons.
Type:Trad
Height:5m
Rating:PG
FA by:Teth Cleveland (solo)
FA on:October 28, 2001
From the ledge, follow a curving crack that straightens near the top and finishes at a tree. Nice line with good gear. A little crack technique is essential for this one.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:October 17, 2000
Two metres right of C'est Clair, climb up and then angle right past three bolts. Fantastic route.
Type:Sport
Height:11m
Rating:G
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:1999
Start near the right hand corner of the face underneath the large feature. Climb up on good jugs to easy climbing on a dihedral-like block.
Type:Trad
Height:11m
Rating:G
FA by:John Bowles
FA on:Summer 2003
Avoid easy holds, using a bunch of small pockets on the face. Plug gear into horizontals and some of the bigger pockets.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Derek Hatfield/ Ryan Pourier
FA on:2015
Start as per Apoplex. At the top of the ramp break right into the offwidth overhead crack out into space, finding side pulls and hidden hands to escape the crack and reach the top. First ascent during 2017 solar eclipse.
Type:Trad
Height:21m
Anchor Type:Rings
Developer:Kris MacLellan and Anthony Lord
FA by:Kris MacLellan and Anthony Lord
FA on:August 2017
Starts just right of Enervator and climbs the steep shallow dihedral directly to the ledge below Euthanasia (#3). Start with a tricky step into the dihedral and a good finger lock (#1 friend). Run it out using the intermittent crack in the dihedral and the left arete to reach the ledge. This route grows in quick. Was aid climbed in 2009 and unwittingly claimed as an FA due to the moss (5 years after it was first cleaned and free-climbed).
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:August 25, 2006
Climb cracks and weaknesses two metres left of the inside corner. Many variations possible.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:PG
FA by:Clarence Barrett
FA on:1985
The dihedral that leads to an offwidth crack at the halfway point. Easier than it looks, but still a fairly serious undertaking considering the grade. [Note: there is good gear at the start and near the end of the offwidth, but nothing in between. Surprisingly positive holds in here though.]
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:September 8, 2002
Slap on the butter and climb the difficult slab past three bolts and an overlap to reach the anchor. (Starts four metres right of First Steps in front of a maple tree. A little dirty on the bottom.)
Type:Sport
Height:7m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:September 2002
The second coming of Grovel. Start in a pair of shallow dihedrals which quickly lead into a wider crack/flake system. Continue up this feature, just left of an orange wall.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:Summer 2000
The cave-like overhang in the middle of the steep wall. Exit the cave on the left and scramble up the crack to finish. The route is fairly slick and gear is difficult to place on this one.
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:PG-
Fire up the short dihedral and make an interesting move (5.7) onto the easy slab. On the first ascent, Tony dove into the wide crack which heads up the right-most wall (5.9). Other options include: heading up the right-leaning, slightly overhanging dihedral a little farther up (5.8+) or following the stunning finish to Shoe Sacrifice (which makes an easier and very enjoyable route, 5.7).
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Tony Windust
FA on:Spring 1995
Climb the obvious crack on the right side of wall.
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:G
FA by:Sandrine Corbin
FA on:Fall 2007
"Left crack of the two crack pair in the middle cliff.
Partially cleaned. Unclimbed as far as I know."
Height:10m
Start at the right side of the face, below vertical cracks that are about six metres up. Begin a curved edge and traverse left until you can gain a small right-facing crack. Traverse back right and follow cracks to the top. Let the bleeding begin.
Type:Top Rope
Height:10m
Climb the obvious corner just left of the overhanging wall on the main crag. Follow corners, cracks and gullies to the top. A little dirty, but otherwise this is a nice long line.

The railing at the top of the crag is unsafe for use as an anchor. There are no anchor bolts at the top. Please have the necessary gear and knowledge to build a trad anchor at the top of any route that finishes at or under the railing.
Type:Trad
Height:30m
Rating:PG
Excellent climbing that starts up the left-leaning ramp as per the last two routes, but breaks right as soon as possible towards the roof systems. Avoid the roof systems by stepping left to another crack system and heading straight up the steep dihedral to the top. Sustained.
Type:Trad
Height:17m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:July 2, 1996
Start at a slab under the large overhang.  Climb up the back corner and traverse out right under the overhang using a horizontal crack to a ledge.  Step left into the wide crack to finish. 
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:March 2005
A beautiful (albeit short) finger to hand sized crack in between the corner and the arete.
Type:Trad
Height:5m
Rating:G
FA by:Kevin Brooks
FA on:October 28, 2001
Eastern Tide videographer and shameless self-promoter [http://bouldering.ca/], Todd has showcased his mad crimping skillz on this one.
Type:Sport
Height:7m
Rating:G
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:2008
Near the left-most end of the Main Wall, start up an obvious chimney and then move onto the face, passing one piton (if it's there still) to the top.
Type:Mixed
Height:25m
Rating:PG
FA by:Clarence Barrett
FA on:1976
This climb is located approximately 30 m west of Elf Slide and climbs solid rock on a low angled left-leaning ridge/buttress.
Type:Trad
Height:25m
Rating:PG-
FA by:John Read
FA on:1973
Starts in front of a tree at an offwidth crack and leads to a highly fractured wall above. To Steve's chagrin, he was the one who volunteered to lead it - his comment afterwards: "ok, so it's not solid everywhere!"
Type:Trad
Height:20m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Brewis
FA on:May 1995
From the base of Pyramid scramble up and left to belay on a comfortable ledge. Climb past horizontals directly above the belay into a right-leaning feature or traverse right into a corner with a scruffy tree in it and then traverse back left higher up. Follow a series of corners to the left of four successive roofs (avoid these roofs as there are some loose blocks on them), passing one bolt near the top. After the bolt, a committing exit ramp leads to the right and up to the ledges and a fixed piton. Traverse left on ledges to finish.
Type:Mixed
Height:23m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:August 20, 1991
From the base of Zig-Zag traverse east for a couple hundred metres until you see a large crack leading to a ridge. (Further east is a large gully.) Scramble up the large crack (4th class) and start ascending the low angle friction ridge to the top.
Type:Trad
Height:50m
Rating:PG
FA by:John Read
FA on:1975
Work your way up big holds and cracks to a 2 bolt anchor and lower off. Great first lead for the aspiring sport climber.
Type:Sport
Height:20m
Rating:G
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:2010
A few metres right of Gibraltar Straight is a clean flake crack.  Climb this to an insecure block on a ledge.  Stand on the block then move up and right to finish up a wide crack. 
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:March 2006
Around the corner from Leftovers, use the detached block behind you to get onto the face, then up the arête using sidepulls and small gear, finishes up the same final crack as Leftovers.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:Dave Peabody
FA on:November 1, 2008
Climb the start of Enervator past two bolts (5.11a) and then step right to reach a flake in the dihedral on the right. Follow the dihedral to the ledge and an old bolt at the base of a wide crack. Climb the steep crack (fist and offwidth size) to a ledge and continue up a second crack in the steep headwall. Finish on slabs at the top. [Note: An all-gear variation (5.10) to this climb starts on Pitch 1 of Ecstasy to reach the ledge, and then finish on the cracks as described above.]
Type:Mixed
Height:24m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:July 6, 1991
The obvious crack at the top of the Practice Wall with large horizontal cracks at three metres height.
Type:Trad
Height:6m
Rating:PG-
FA by: (solo)
FA on:1999
A challenging sport route that starts in a hole down by the water and consists of three bouldery cruxes with the hardest one at the bottom (stick clip the first bolt). It is also possible to avoid the first crux by climbing in from the right above the first bolt which makes an enjoyable climb in itself (~5.12b). Unrepeated.
Type:Sport
Height:14m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:November 22, 1999
Start on the ledge next to a large dead tree stump and follow a crack up the left-facing corner.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Jonathan Graham
FA on:Summer 2000
Begin on a large boulder at the base. Climb straight up on crimps and jugs. Great moves all the way with some cool sequences to unlock.
Type:Sport
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:1999
Start to the right of "I'm About That Big" on the face with the left trending crack. Make difficult face moves into the discontinuous crack in the middle of the face and then move right to the large crack directly above. Top out as for route #2.
Type:Trad
Height:11m
Rating:PG
FA by:Chris Eager, Ellen Forhan, and John Bowles
FA on:Summer 2003
Starts at the large flake and climbs up the face to a grassy ledge.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Derek Hatfield (Free Solo)
FA on:2011
Elephant's Foot start. Break right on the Apron to traverse the striking, wide, sky-facing crack as far as it goes. Finish with few well-protected technical moves to the lookoff point. No bolts here due to locals/aesthetic issues, so build a tree anchor to belay a second. If you committed to rapping in to Raptor Crag, this route is a great way to get back up to the top and out.
Type:Trad
Height:26m
Anchor Type:Natural
Developer:Kris MacLellan and Anthony Lord
FA by:Kris MacLellan and Anthony Lord
FA on:August 2017
Start five metres left of the main crackline where a detached flake forms a short chimney. Move up and left to gain left-facing flakes up to a horizontal and then to a hollow-sounding ear-shaped flake. Using a small hold above, make a hard move right to a good flake and then finish on Lost Arrow. Very strenuous and sustained.
Type:Trad
Height:14m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:August 18, 2002
When bats just won't do. Climb the low angle slab just right of the vegetated gully.
Type:Sport
Height:7m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2008
"The route begins below the large system of left-facing dihedrals on the right side of the main wall.
Pitch 1- (30m, 5.9) Climb up the corner to a blocky ledge. Continue up the steep face past 3 bolts and move onto a sloping ledge. Continue up a short crack section, past a bolt to good belay in a corner.
Pitch 2 - (20m, 5.11) Climb the parallel cracks to a flat ledge. Climb past the bolts (crux) to make a tricky move to access the belay ledge (either ledge is good, the top one is cleaner).
Pitch 3 - (15m, 5.9) Climb the corner for 4m and reach around the corner to the right to clip a bolt on the face. Swing onto the face and continue past bolts to the ledge. (You could probably continue to the top from here.)
Pitch 4 - (15m, 5.10) Climb the slightly overhanging hand crack and continue to the top via bulges and wide cracks."
Type:Mixed
Height:80m
Rating:G
FA by:Jonathan Graham, Becky Craig
FA on:September 15, 2001
Climb the horizontals, face and vertical crack just right of a tree-filled mossy corner. Start by a tree stump. Gear protects the starting moves and the top-out crack. Good line.
Type:Mixed
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:August 2002
Climb up the beautiful crack system three metres right of Chagrin, which forms an inverted "V" about five metres up. Sustained and engaging. Good gear.
Type:Trad
Height:20m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:May 22, 1992
Climb up to a small roof or "pod" at three metres height. Put your gloves on and move left to gain flakes (crux) and a tight dihedral which leads to a small roof. Exit left through the roof. Spectacular line and powerful crux. Feels like a much longer route than it is.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:September 2, 2000
Start up the wide layback in a corner, three metres right of Flaming Sausages, and onto the slab, passing two possible exits on your right. Move left delicately around a corner and up twin cracks to the top. Excellent route. Apparently, J.P. lost a pair of new rock shoes to the tide while he was climbing this one.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:J.P. Brown
FA on:Summer 1995
Starting below and right of the Scrape and Pillage start, climb up sparsely protected flakes and steps towards a short roof and a right-leaning dihedral. Follow the dihedral up and right (do not move onto the loose block under the overhang on your left) to a small blocky corner. From here move up and left along a sloping ledge past a bolt to join Scrape and Pillage just below the crux exit ramp. [Note: there is another bolt located below and right of the exit ramp which was placed in the early 90s in search of a direct finish for Indian Summer. This finish remains uncompleted.]
Type:Mixed
Height:25m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:November 29, 1992
From the fire tower hiking trail, continue 100 m past where the trail ends and descend 50 m below the summit of Franey. Traverse west for 50 m and you will be at the base of the Shallow Rib. Ascend the obvious rib (easy friction climbing).
Type:Trad
Height:50m
Rating:PG-
FA by:John Read
FA on:1975
Bolted by Sean Therien in 2010. This route starts on the fractured face right of Bye Bye Beep and climbs up to a dripping wet gash, then follows bolts up and right. Awaits a free ascent since it is so often wet.
Type:Sport
Height:30m
Rating:A0
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2010
Just right again (~40') are some thin flakes.  Climb the flakes and face then up to, and over, a small roof.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Rich LaPaix
FA on:March 2006
Start just left of Black Dog at the far left side of the wall, mantle onto the ledge ~ 8’high, follow the left-facing dihedral to the large ledge, and take the hand crack to the top.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Rich LaPaix, Sean Cassidy, and Dave Peabody
FA on:November 1, 2008
Right crack of the two crack pair in the middle cliff.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:R
FA by:Jeremy How, Sean Corbin, Rich LaPaix
FA on:October 2007
"Find out what everyone is raving about. (Could be climbed in one pitch.)
Pitch 1 (5.6, G, 9m): Climb the wide wet mossy corner to a ledge
Pitch 2 (5.6, G, 14m): From the ledge climb an even wider mossy corner. Just do it."
Type:Trad
Height:23m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Dale
FA on:August 26, 1978
The short dirty corner that leads up to a grassy knoll or ledge.
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:PG
FA by:Peter McVey
FA on:July 22, 2001
A short dreamy romp on big holds near the right end of the Practice Wall.
Type:Trad
Height:5m
Rating:R
FA by: (solo)
FA on:1999
Climb the obvious crack (5.9) just right of the start of Chameleon and behind a mammoth boulder. Climb the crack up to a right-facing corner and rest at the top of it. Swing right onto the steep headwall and pass two bolts to reach the anchor. (Whingeing Pom Variation - 5.9 G; FFA: Andy Birtwistle, Sandie Baldauf, April 1998): A more consistent climb that avoids the steep headwall by escaping right along the gravelly ledge to finish on Rustle Never Sleeps.
Type:Mixed
Height:14m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:October 1996
The obvious inside corner.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:PG
FA by:Keith MacDonald
FA on:1982
A somewhat contrived line to the right of the overhang which traditionally stays in the finger crack to the left of the blocky holds. The route is easier if the holds to the right are used. The route is often dirty because of erosion run-off from the top. In the late 90's a climber (later known as "Flyin' Brian") attempted to ascend the route without using the bolts and suffered a six metre fall which resulted in two broken ankles. In a first-hand report of the descent: "I would've fallen farther but the ground stopped me."
Type:Sport
Height:9m
Rating:PG
Traverse over to the left side of the sloping ledge (ideally, set up an exposed yet comfortable belay in the cracks here) and climb a right-facing corner. At the top of the corner follow an undercling and slab out right to join another dihedral heading to the top. Fun climbing.
Type:Trad
Height:20m
Rating:G
Climb up the intimidating six metre high detached block. From the block, head straight up the gentle folds of rock whilst dreaming of Bowden Doors (a climbing area in northern England).
Type:Trad
Height:22m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Andy Birtwistle
FA on:September 6, 1997
The brutal skin-grating offwidth crack, started from the boulder (5.9), slightly harder from the ground.  Wide gear needed OR boulder through the crux start.
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:May 7, 2005
Pronounced "show-din-froy-dah," which is apparently a German expression that means "to laugh at other people's misfortunes." Very charming. Sounds like some serious sandbag potential here. Start at lowest possible point and climb up to a ledge. Layback right to gain the blocky upper face.
Type:Sport
Height:7m
Rating:G
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:November 18, 2001
Start just right of the prominent arete at a large handhold and climb the arete up to a narrow ledge. Move right to get in a piece of gear (double ropes are handy for this), then step up and left into a blank section of rock to reach a superb crackline which is climbed to the top. [Note: snakeskins are often found in this crack, so watch out for critters - especially in the spring!]
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:October 17, 2000
Start about two metres right of the boulder, below a bulge and a black streak on the wall. Finish through a scooped weakness in the roof. Powerful stuff.
Type:Sport
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:1999
As good a reason as any, I suppose. Just right of #3 is a corner with large low angle crack systems - follow these to the top.
Type:Trad
Height:11m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Eager, John Bowles, and Ellen Forhan
FA on:Summer 2003
Start below "Ye Must be Saved" painting, and work up the steep slab. Plug into the horizontals, and work up between two small trees, afterwhich, trend sort of right and to the top using pockets in the rock to place your pro.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Derek Hatfield/ Martin Michael
FA on:2010
Severely overhanging crack system, looks like pinches and jams up the Headwall. Finish as per Apoplex. Has been brushed but not deep cleaned. Looks tough.
Type:Trad
"Pitch 1 (5.8, 8m) - Squeeze into the dark recesses of the obvious chimney (Home of the Rock Gnome), and swim upwards to the light. Emerge through a slot onto a small ledge above the surging sea. Belay on cams and nuts.
Pitch 2 (5.10+, 15m) - Step right into a crackline and follow it over an awkward bulge. Precarious moves lead up to an even more awkward overhang. Finish straight up a pleasant cracked wall.

[Note: this route crosses ""Dreaming of Bowden Doors"", route#4]"
Type:Trad
Height:23m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:September 7, 2003
An alternate direct finish for route #4 (Ecstasy). After you climb the original wide crack, move right onto the face and straight up. Finish at the chains for Splitting Coins (#5).
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Rich LaPaix
FA on:August 2009
The crackline about 5m right of Land and Sea.  [Reluctantly named by Steve as he figured it would be easily freed.]
Type:Aid
Height:18m
FA by:Steve Punshon, Alan Wilson
FA on:January 2005
To the right of the inside corner is a short arete. Start on the left side of the arete and work around to the right side of it after about three metres.
Type:Top Rope
Height:7m
Starts a couple of metres right of #4 with a balancey boulder problem. Eases up considerably after that.
Type:Sport
Height:7m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2008
About 20 metres in from the right edge of the Main Wall is a wide square-cut bay in the face. (A clump of trees sits atop a buttress on the left side of this bay about two-thirds up the face.) This line followed obvious weaknesses to the top, however at this point, it is not clear which side of the bay the route was climbed.
Height:25m
FA by:Clarence Barrett
FA on:1976
Climbs the left side of a white face past two bolts to reach a thin crack high up on the wall.
Type:Mixed
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:Becky Craig
FA on:September 17, 2000
What to do the night after a stag party? Go aid climbing! Follows the sister crack just left of Sunset Siege. Will be easily freed.
Type:Aid
Height:18m
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:July 2002
"Free climbs the A1 route known as ""Butkus"" [NSR - route #5].  Here is Steve's free report:

""What with all the fuss this year about the death of the Pope I thought a route should commemorate the Roman Catholic Church's sordid and unapologetic millenium of slaughtering and torturing innocent people.  This route is something of a forearm stretcher, but no hot pokers up the jacksie thank goodness.  Brilliant and sustained climbing. """
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:July 2002
Start as for Fight Club. Exit the "pod" on the right via a large flake. Fun line.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Becky Craig
FA on:Summer 2000
Climb up a series of flakes and blocks on the right side of the overhanging face. The gear is bad on this one unless you use the bolts on No Man's Land. Watch for loose rock. [Note: I haven't climbed this one, but there's a good chance it's harder than 5.9.]
Type:Mixed
Height:9m
Rating:PG-/R
THE classic First Face climb. This route ascends the prominent roof-capped, left-facing dihedral. Start just right of the base of the dihedral and climb a poorly protected wall (5m, 5.9+) to a large ledge (there is usually a stack of useful cheater stones at the base). Move left and climb the shattered face up to the dihedral (1st crux - protected with small wires and tricams). Jam and layback the dihedral to the roof. Move to the outside corner of the roof and exit up and slightly right on evasive holds (2nd crux). Continue to the top from the ledge or belay/rappel from the anchors for Sins and Transgressions. [Note: the original ascent of Pyramid was done in a yo-yo style and exited the roof by traversing right for two metres and finishing on the final moves (5.10d) of what is now Sins and Transgressions. Rumour has it that they originally graded the route 5.9 and it wasn't until it was repeated almost a decade later that the grading was somewhat sorted out.]
Type:Trad
Height:28m
Rating:PG
FA by:Dan Price
FA on:June 27, 1982
Stellar climbing up a slightly overhung dihedral on good holds to a terrifying block held in place by magic. Follow crack to roof, bust right and finish up the perfect corner. Great gear, awesome positions, wild finish. Named after first ascensionist nearly severed tip off thumb cleaning the route and the core shot his rap line took from a razor sharp block falling on it.
Type:Trad
Height:30m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2010
The obvious hand to fist-sized crack a left-facing corner.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Rich LaPaix, Jeremy How, Sandrine Corbin
FA on:October 2007
Previously known as The Prow (#5 in NSR). This route remained unclimbed for ten years. Follow cracks and shallow dihedrals up the center of the wall. Desperate.
Type:Trad
Height:20m
Rating:R
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:July 1, 2003
Due to the ever-present sea at the base of the route, you need to rap down from the "poopdeck" (the ledge with the large boulder and larger guano deposits) on the mainland side of the boulder. Set a hanging belay below the roof, but above the water, and climb straight up the obvious crack back to the "poopdeck."
Type:Trad
Height:13m
Rating:A0
FA by:Sean Cassidy, Colin Matthews
FA on:September 6, 1997
An unfinished project (bolted) that climbs the face right of Hummingbird Boogie to a short roof. Pull the roof and head up and left to the final steep headwall and anchor.
Type:Sport
Height:12m
Rating:G
Climb up the centre crack in the feature that has a striking resemblance to a huge derriere.  Continue directly up the slab to the top. 
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:March 2005
A short two bolt sport route three metres right of the arete. Looks like some gear options in the first horizontal crack if needed (the first bolt is at about four metres). Steep flaky wall (check your holds).
Type:Sport
Height:7m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:November 18, 2001
The obvious line. Just amazing. Good gear, good moves, consistent difficulty. Quality climbing at a reasonable grade.
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:August 2, 2002
A challenging route with a wide variety of moves, starting left of the Oh, I See! slab. Karate chop the wide left-leaning crack and shimmy up and left towards the inside corner, passing a tree on your way. From the corner, stealth your way out left and around the arete to a precarious stance where better protection is available. Smooth your way up and left along the thin crack until you can dive into the wide crack, which was the original finish to Flaming Sausages. A few more chops and you're up - you are now a black belt! This route was named after a cool song by the Superfriendz. It cannot be climbed at high tide.
Type:Trad
Height:17m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:June 1996
looks like shit
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:PG-
FA by:John Read
FA on:1975
At the left end of the right wall. Climb into a right-facing dihedral and follow to a cave. Move right and climb the finger crack in the overhang to ledges. Finish up a pleasant corner.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:November 4, 2006
Formerly known as E-Gads - a long uncompleted project (a few bolts were installed around 1992) up the long blank face, right of the mossy corner. Start at a cyclops eye and move up and left. Weave back and forth on very small crimps to reach the large ledge (stay left of the alluring Euphoria Arete).
Type:Sport
Height:21m
Rating:G
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:November 2, 2008
Make a delicate moves up to reach a small flake. Continue straight up, passing a small ledge at about five metres, and finish at the big tree on the ledge above.
Type:Top Rope
Height:8m
Fun climbing on good holds, east side of the gully.
Type:Top Rope
Height:10m
Rating:X
Start from the ground and climb a short, wide corner crack up to a big ledge about three metres up. From the ledge, enter the chimney and exit at the top. Wear headlamp and watch for bats.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Chris Hayes
FA on:Summer 2000
Steep climbing just left of the wide crack. Passes a roof on the lower wall using pockets. Climb the left side of the top-out roof. A couple of the clips through the roof are very difficult - it may be necessary to pre-clip the draws for this one. Labelled as a "Projet" in the guidebook.
Type:Sport
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:June 4, 2003
Start on the face to the right of #4 topping out on the prominent rail.
Type:Trad
Height:11m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Eager, John Bowles, and Ellen Forhan
FA on:Summer 2003
Long ramp with slopey hands up the shattered face. Top half mostly cleaned. Probably best to start from left near the nest, not at the Elephant's foot.
Type:Trad
The obvious 3-5" wide crack at the far right end of the main wall, directly across from the "Little Sentinel" [see route#6 - NSR]. After 25 ft of crack climbing, ascend 10 feet of slabs into the trees. Nice route but quite short. Top of the route is very close to the access road/parking lot and might be flagged.
Type:Trad
Height:16m
Rating:G
FA by:John Bowles
FA on:September 12, 2005
Start as per Lost Arrow and then cut right along the ramp to gain the arête (crux). Move up to a good incut with a small horn. Sling the horn (this is your only "piece" for the next five metres) and continue on positive edges and improving holds up to the top. A small friend can protect the top-out. Sparsely protected.
Type:Trad
Height:13m
Rating:R
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:August 18, 2002
Climb the obvious flake and crack system on the right facing wall.
Type:Sport
Height:7m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2008
The route climbs to the top of a detached pillar dubbed by the first ascent team as "The Little Sentinel," located at the far east end of the Main Wall in a gully between the Main Wall and the Lost Wall. Start below the tallest part of the pillar on the corner and move up and right below the offwidth. Straight up to the top. Bolted rappel station at the top (placed by the second ascent team about a year later).
Type:Trad
Height:22m
Rating:PG
FA by:Daryl Burghardt
FA on:October 7, 2001
Ascend a left-leaning slab up to the left side of the large roof. Step left with difficulty to gain the sustained curving crack that leads to the top. An excellent route. Just like most other routes here it is a big forearm burn.
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy, Todd Foster
FA on:July 7, 1998
This is it Kenny. Climb the steep crackline that curves right and then back left to gain a triangular alcove near the top.
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:July 13, 2002
An interesting and sometimes intense slab climb. Traverse left along the slab (above the water) to gain small holds leading upwards. Step across the chasm of doom onto the upper slab where protection awaits in the vegetated crack. Easily top-roped.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Dave Edgell
FA on:Summer 1995
Start in the pod right of Black Dog and make some tricky moves to a ledge (crux). Follow the crackline over a surprisingly awkward bulge to another ledge and finish up a fine jamming crack. [ Note: before leaving the pod, it's a good idea to protect high with a small cam.]
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:Nate Smith
FA on:October 2007
Climb the obvious finger crack until it peters out to a blank, slabby face (2 bolts) which provides a technical sequence using sidepulls, crimps, and mono-pockets.
Type:Mixed
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:Rich LaPaix
FA on:October 2007
"This route can be climbed as one pitch or two separate ones. Or you can rap off after the first pitch as it was originally conceived in 1981.
Pitch 1 (5.8, G, 11m): Start by a small spruce tree close to the right hand edge of the wall and follow the obvious crack line to the ledge. At this point you can rap off of a single bolt and a slung horn or continue up the slabby arete above.
Pitch 2 (a.k.a. Euphoria Arete, 5.10b, G, 6m) [FFA: Dan Price, Sean Willett, July 6, 1991]: From the top of Euphoria, climb the slabby arete past two bolts to reach the large ledge. Stay on the right side of the arete (the first time I climbed this route, temptation pulled me to the left side which is quite a bit harder, and it proceeded to spit me off mercilessly)."
Type:Mixed
Height:17m
Rating:G
FA by:Kevin Cody
FA on:July 26, 1981
A good warm-up. Follow the main crack up the slab right of Pap Smear.
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:PG
FA on:2000
The obvious crack in the Gully Wall. Good route.
Type:Trad
Height:14m
Rating:PG
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:1999
Both this route and the next one are accessed by rapping down the ocean side of the large boulder on the "poopdeck." These routes can only be climbed during relatively low tides when a large flat barnacled ledge avails itself. From the barnacles, superdrift up the obvious corner until forced to make some interesting exit moves back to the "poopdeck."
Type:Trad
Height:14m
Rating:PG
FA by:Adam Hartling
FA on:September 6, 1997
Start just left of See With Joy on the diamond-shaped boulder. Head up and slightly left towards a small ledge with a medium-sized boulder. Mantle onto the ledge and make a tricky move off the boulder onto the exit slab. Belay off two bolts at the top of the slab. Neil Young would enjoy the line. The original ascent of this line was done in a ground up style (cleaned on lead). Unfortunately, as a result of over-zealous bolting on neighbouring routes, this line now has two bolts where before there were none. But if the new bolts are what lure you up, the crux will come as a surprise.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:June 1996
Starts at the offwidth crack about three metres right of Reach for the Skylar and leads up to a pod/roof. Take the jam crack on the right up to the top. The top-out is a little dirty.
Type:Trad
Height:5m
Rating:G
FA by:Scott Guenther, Sean Kelly, Adam Pearce
FA on:August 2, 2002
This route catches a lot of sun, but even when cloudy, it's still hot and heavy. Climb past two bolts to reach a vertical crack leading to the large tree up top. Great climb.
Type:Mixed
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Jonathan Graham
FA on:September 14, 2000
Directly above a narrow ledge, a large "guillotine-like" block hangs over the top of the wall. Climb past three bolts towards the block and carefully traverse under the roof to the right. The block seems to be solid, in spite of its appearance, but you can never be too sure!
Type:Sport
Height:8m
Rating:G
The best sport route on the crag. Start as for Pyramid. At the ledge step up to the first bolt directly and make long moves up and left to gain a thin crack. Follow this crack up to a right-leaning corner below an overhanging wall. Move into the corner (crux) and up right for a few metres, then step left past a bolt to gain the final steep headwall. Finish on a ledge with a large block on it and a two-bolt chain anchor.
Type:Sport
Height:24m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:September 1992
Pull mini roof to gain sidepulls, delicate climbing leads to two bolt anchor.
Type:Sport
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:2010
A steep crack capped by a short roof sits just right of the clump of trees on the sloping ledge. Dubbed "The Sickle" in the last guidebook, this project has been attempted but never climbed successfully. Apparently the gear is good. Difficulty is estimated to be 5.12ish.
Type:Trad
Height:20m
The overhang and crack at the right end of the crag.
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Punshon (solo)
FA on:December 2004
Start right of Bat Cave (either from the bottom or the big ledge) and climb the face above. A tri-cam is useful.
Type:Mixed
Height:14m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Eager
FA on:September 21, 2002
The obvious wide crack that splits the crag in two.
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:PG
FA by:Jeff Lockyer
FA on:1995
Just to the right of "Spider Monkey", follow a crack straight up, then right and up again past the tree. [Note: the large block near the top of this route has been observed to be very loose - use caution.]
Type:Trad
Height:14m
Rating:G
FA by:Peter McVey, Steve Punshon, and Thom Parker
FA on:May 18, 2003
Scurry up 4m of unprotected slab just left of "The Blankness" to gain flaring finger crack.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Natural
FA by:Mick Levin, Shawn Smith
FA on:31/10/14
Delicate slab climbing up the left half of the face.
Type:Sport
Height:7m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2008
Climb the face and cracks starting three metres right of Heavy Petter. Tricky moves at the start (protected by small wires) and face climbing lead to the finishing crack. There is room for gear at the top if you want.
Type:Mixed
Height:10m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Jim Harrigan, Chris Hayes
FA on:August 2002
The straight ahead hand crack at the right side of the main cliff. Sharp and a bit awkward. If cracks could talk, this is what it would say after finishing with your hands: "chewy!"
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:G
FA by:Jonathan Graham
FA on:Summer 2000
Climb the white slabby face left of Sea Gully past three bolts and a couple of bulges. Nice climb.
Type:Sport
Height:9m
Rating:PG
A great face climb on all natural gear. Start as for Pyramid or to the right via blocks and trees to gain a ledge just left of a small roof. Traverse one metre right and move up through the roof into a good finger crack. Follow the crack and flakes until the crack system ends at a couple of horizontal features. Step up and right slightly to gain a shallow right-leaning crack/edge. Before the crack ends watch for some good face holds to take you up and left to a small ledge below the roof. Traverse left around the roof and then up the ramp and a short chimney at the top. This route requires some route-finding skills but is a great line with holds that seem to appear as you need them.
Type:Trad
Height:28m
Rating:PG
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:July 1989
"Scramble up to a bushy ledge then blast up the crack. Take the pain till the crack ends then bust left to finish as per Slice and Dice (rap off 2 bolt anchor).

Spelling on Lloyd?"
Type:Trad
Height:20m
Rating:PG
FA by:Seb Launcelot
FA on:2010
Start as for Euphoria but continue right past the spruce tree to the arete and climb to the ledge directly. [Note: an easier variation to the arete (climbed by Sean Willett and Sylvia Fuller in 1994) can be reached by traversing right a short distance past the arete to gain a 5.8 jam crack which then leads to the ledge.] Either way, continue up Euphoria Arete (5.10b) to the large ledge and climb the final headwall on the left side of the arete to finish.
Type:Mixed
Height:26m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:August 17, 1991
"From the belay ledge go to the right of the steep roof project and up the corner ramp. When you
reach the huge flake head left up the crack in the slab to the look-out at the top. [A direct start was added by the two Chris' on Nov. 7, 2002: Climb the steep face at the right end of the cliff from the ground on big holds (5.7)."
Type:Trad
Height:20m
Rating:PG
FA by:Chris Eager
FA on:October 4, 2002
From the barnacled ledge, ascend the ramps and blocks right of Stale Biscuit. Finish in a left-facing dihedral. A fine route in an inspiring setting.
Type:Trad
Height:14m
Rating:PG
FA by:Andy Birtwistle
FA on:September 6, 1997
Start as for Rustle Never Sleeps up to the horizontal break. Step up onto the steep wall and follow a right-arching overlap. A dynamic move at the top of the overlap takes you to the clipping jug by the chain anchors. A small cam is useful in the arch but not necessary.
Type:Sport
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:September 13, 2000
Climb the blank-looking face, beginning with an incipient right-trending seam. Step left into a bowl and then straight up past a couple of small overlaps. Not much gear on this one at all.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:R
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:September 8, 2002
This imposing route climbs the hand crack out of the right side of an obvious roof. After the roof, throw yourself into the chimney slot and rest awhile. Challenges resume at the top of the chimney, where steep finger and fist cracks lead to the top.
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:September 9, 2000
A variation to Oh, I See!, which starts by assaulting the bush-choked corner just to the right of the initial slab. Wrestle past a birch tree and gain the upper slab via the thin crack, whereupon you join the original route.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Bob Scheibling
FA on:Summer 1996
About 4 metres right of Black Dog. Climb a crack to an overhang and step left into a great looking left-facing dihedral which is climbed to the top.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:Peter McVey
FA on:November 11, 2006
Bolted line up the short corner on the right side of the cliff. Sounds like the FFA team didn't want to take credit for this one!
Type:Sport
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:Fall 2007
This top-rope project climbs the rounded corner on the right hand face. Crimpy crystal pulling all the way.
Type:Top Rope
Height:13m
Start up a dihedral just right of a large overhanging section of rock. Finish on easier terrain above.
Type:Top Rope
Height:15m
Rating:?
A short crack five metres right of Mommy's Boy beginning with a horizontal break at about 1.5 metres.
Type:Trad
Height:5m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Kelly
FA on:August 17, 2002
Scramble up to the ledge and climb the wide crack/chimney system left of the corner. Climb over a small roof block and eventually up to a small arete near the top.
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:PG
FA by:Chris Hayes
FA on:Summer 2000
Nice climbing up to a bulge and into the scoop above (crux). Fun climbing through the roof on big holds. First top-roped around 1995. Bolted in 2002.
Type:Sport
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Eager
FA on:October 24, 2002
Fun moves up the steep face bring you onto a slab and a right-trending seam - follow this to the steep dihedral and up. Wicked fun.
Type:Mixed
Height:16m
Rating:G
FA by:Rich LaPaix
FA on:September 2007
At the far right side of Heavy Petter Wall, climb the short right-facing dihedral and step left onto the steep face to finish. Bouldery. [ST called this 5.10d, but it feels a lot hard to me!]
Type:Sport
Height:7m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:August 19, 2003
Climb the triangular-shaped dihedral on the right side of the buttress past a hollow-sounding flake. Step left to finish.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Peter McVey
FA on:August 18, 2002
All aboard. Follow bolts up the right side of the slab.
Type:Sport
Height:7m
Rating:G
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:2008
Start up an easy crack at the left end of Keyhole Wall, just right of the mossy corner. Above the crack, tackle the deceptive headwall. Gear is good but difficult to arrange on the top section.
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:PG
FA by:Andy Birtwistle
FA on:May 12, 1998
(AKA Power Pellet Roof) Follow the finger crack out of the roof (crux) to good holds above. Keep moving up the steep wall and finish on either side of the block at the top.
Type:Trad
Height:14m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:June 14, 2000
The enticing vertical hand crack on the second cliff. The route is so good it will bring tears to your eyes.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:September 2, 2000
Climb the obvious corner over a small block to a ledge and then up a final dihedral to the top. Finishes at a tree.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:G
A short but enjoyable climb which feels a lot longer than it is. Start on the bushy ledge at the top of the descent trail and scamper up the near-horizontal ledges and into a vertical crack. The name was born when Dave took flight after a foot-hold broke. Other than that hold, the route is quite solid.
Type:Trad
Height:6m
Rating:G
FA by:Dave Edgell
FA on:June 1996
"A fun sport route that starts easy and just gets harder and harder til the bitter end.
This route takes you to the big treed ledge and the Upper Tier. Anchor only has a single rap bolt due to lack of battery power."
Type:Sport
Height:30m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2010
The bulging hand/fist crack in the centre of the wall just right of Backdoor Man. [SC Note: Good route, but six ain't six, that's for sure Jimi!)
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:October 22, 2006
From the start of Popcorn, scramble up the steep gully (4th class) just left of the face of Popcorn, past a couple of small trees to the base of a wide vertical crack/corner. Belay here. Climb the corner and crack system up and slightly left to High Ledge. A little dirty but fun.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Dale et al
FA on:August 27, 1978
"According to Mike Kohler, this is a great route but, ""if you're not prepared to lose some skin, don't even try it."" Start in the triangular notch on top of a boulder, or climb in from the left along a diagonal crack (preferred). Hand jam up the main crack and through the small roof (crux). Finish on ledge above.

Freed since the guide came out."
Type:Trad
Height:13m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Hayes
FA on:Spring 2000
Just to the right of the overhanging section of rock at the left end of the Main Wall is an obvious corner crack. Climb this feature to the top. Good exposure. Watch for broken glass.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Peter McVey
FA on:October 21, 2001
Start on top of the diamond-shaped boulder and follow easy horizontal breaks up to a left-facing corner. Continue up the crack and skirt the large roof by traversing right for three metres and then up again. One of the best routes in Nova Scotia! Avoid the tempation to stop at the anchors for Big Foot Motel - the upper moves are just too enjoyable to miss.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Nick Sagar
FA on:Summer 1994
A widish crack at the left end of the main wall. Easy going for the first half and then a surprisingly tricky middle section. Nice climbing.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:September 22, 2002
The crackline between Snakeskin and Emotional Vampires. Start as for Emotional Vampires up to the large ledge. Climb the left-slanting crack to a small overlap. Step left slightly using an interesting right finger mono-doigt and then move up and right to reach a ledge. Follow a right-trending dihedral through steep terrain at the top.
Type:Trad
Height:28m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Punshon, Sean McOuat
FA on:November 10, 2001
Start next to a medium-sized spruce tree on the ground and climb the corner up to a ledge (where Chimney Swift starts) and climb up the aesthetic back corner.
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:G
FA by:Craig Dobbin
FA on:Summer 2000
Start just left of You Snooze You Lose and work your way up past the small tree on the upper face.
Type:Top Rope
Height:12m
FA by:John Harwood
FA on:October 22, 2000 (TR)
The steep right-facing corner with big holds.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:G
FA on:2002
Climb the wall and arete to the right of the Sea Gully corner. Gain the big ledge and finish up the final dihedral of Sea Gully.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG-
A truly epic climb with the name describing it all. If you like drudgery, hardship, mountaineering, caving, or are British, this is the route for you. In fact for full enjoyment, you should do it at night with a dull headlamp sometime in December when its raining. Start at the base of Doin' the Sneak and traverse up and left along the hand and foot rails (notice how temptingly close the ground is as the route parallels the descent gully - it's still not too late to stop!)...squeeze through the tree branches and start going up the inviting and oh! so awkward offwidth until you reach a flaring chimney. Search desperately for a decent hold and scurry to the top, vowing never to do this again. [Note: don't let this sarcastic description scare you off, it is actually a very good line.]
Type:Trad
Height:23m
Rating:PG
FA by:Dave Edgell
FA on:May 1996
Start as for April Cool and reach a stance below a right-trending thin crack which is left of the April Cool corner. An awkward move gains the crack system, and continuous difficulty with occasional "semi-rests" takes you to a small roof. Surmount the roof and stand on a narrow ledge below a steep wall. Climb the final headwall into a large "v-slot" to belay. Scramble off left or right when finished. Awesome line all the way. [Note: the original ascent traversed right at the small roof to join April Cool. The aesthetic direct finish was completed in 2001 by Sean Cassidy, Becky Craig, and Jonathan Graham.]
Type:Trad
Height:26m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:September 29, 1993
"Accessed by rapping or climbing 5/7/8 first.

DJ Dyno's going away present to Nova Scotia: a 5 bolt technical crimpfest of pain done in a heavy mist. Dig it! [Apparently the first bolt is difficult to clip; strongly recommended that it be stick-clipped and/or pre clip draws if you rap in.]"
Type:Sport
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:John Bayne (aka DJ Dyno)
FA on:2010
"Climbs the unsavory-looking, vegetated corner left of ""Blues for Stevie"".
[Note: Ben didn't want to name this one. I suggest we call it ""Greens for Benny""]"
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:Ben Smith
FA on:October 2007
"One of the best climbs around. Great exposure, good gear, and quality rock - all at a very accessible grade. From the bottom of the E-Gully, walk south along an eroding ledge to reach a small pine tree.
Pitch 1 *** (5.6, G, 17m): Climb the right-angling dyke on large holds until you can climb straight up over a bulge to a small ledge. Continue straight up the slab to belay at a large tree.
Pitch 2 * (5.5, G, 15m): The original line traversed left from the tree for eight metres and then climbed easy slabs up to High Ledge. Alternatively, you can ascend straight up the left or right crack lines directly behind the large belay tree (5.6). [Note: the direct variation was dubbed ""Gimme Crack Corn,"" FFA: Jayar Milligan, Dave MacLeod, and Tony Veling, August 1982.]
Pitch 3 (5.3-5.5, R, 11m): At the left end of High Ledge, start behind the large spruce and climb the rolling, low-angled crack and face features to the top of the cliff."
Type:Trad
Height:43m
Rating:G/R³
FA by:Chris Dale et al
FA on:August 26, 1978
Start just right of the base of Laceration. Move up and right to a small undercling and eventually up the thin crack. Continue up through the overhang (a.k.a. the breast implants) to the top.
Type:Top Rope
Height:13m
Negotiate a short but tricky roof crack to start, then move up to an offwidth crack above which is left of a larger roof.
Type:Trad
Height:16m
Rating:PG
FA by:Peter McVey
FA on:October 21, 2001
An excellent sport climb up the steep thin face in the centre of the crag. Start below the left side of the face at a wide left-angling crack. Climb up and right and follow the line of bolts. Steep and technical. Has only seen a couple of repeats to date.
Type:Sport
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:October 29, 1999
The second crack in from the left on the main wall. This unexposed route starts with a short bouldery section (crux) and then settles down to a comfortable 5.8 for the duration. A little slimy, but fun once you get going.
Type:Trad
Height:16m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:September 22, 2002
To the left of the hanging truncated tree, ascend the finger crack up a right-facing wall, which leads to a small roof. At the roof, step your left foot left and finish up the vertical face to reach the exit ramp. Fun and balancey.
Type:Mixed
Height:8m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:August 27, 1999
Start up a short slab and into the left-facing corner leading to a roof. Step right around the roof and continue up thin cracks.
Type:Trad
Height:14m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:September 9, 2000
Start as for Gopher Hole. From the ledge, climb the right hand face via prominent cracks.
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Hayes
FA on:Summer 2000
Start in front of a dead spruce tree near the far right end of the crag. Follow a vertical seam up to the first bolt at about four metres. Continue into an alcove and out big holds through the roof. Belay at a tree at the top. A few variation starts are available.
Type:Sport
Height:11m
Rating:G
FA by:Kate Robinson
FA on:1999
The crackline a few feet right of Johnny G. Crux is about halfway up.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:August 2003
Climbs the fine crack which forms the upper part of the top-roped line described as Breast Implants.  Start on a flat slab of rock 3m right of Laceration.  Climb the rightward trending groove for about 5m until level with the overlap.  Traverse left to gain the finger/thin hand crack and follow it through two overhangs to the top.  Great climbing. 
Type:Trad
Height:13m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:May 28, 2006
Climb the finger/thin hand crack midway between "Careful with that Axe" and "Dead Dog Doo" to a small ledge at 20 ft., move up and right past a horn shaped jug and then a pleasant wall to top. Good protection and surprisingly good climbing. Top-roped in 2003 by Alan Wilson.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:October 11, 2008
Moderate crack line left of Surfer Dude.
Type:Trad
Height:16m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:July 21, 2003
Follow the obvious arete at the right side of the alcove, behind a birch tree. Protection is a little sparse but not too bad - sling the birch tree at the first opportunity. [Variation: layback or grovel up the narrow chimney behind Romancing the Stone (has apparently been TR'd but not led).]
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:PG
FA by:Danny Bernard
FA on:Summer 1996
Climb out a short roof and into the hand crack above. Near the top move left to finish.
Type:Trad
Height:14m
Rating:G
FA by:Jonathan Graham
FA on:September 19, 2000
A difficult sport route. Climb the lower face past two bolts, avoiding the cracks on the right. Finish on the original route.
Type:Sport
Height:9m
Rating:PG
This route climbs the prominent corner in the middle of the face. Climb directly up a series of ledges to the top of a large block on your left. Step right to gain the corner and stem and/or face climb your way up to gain a right-angling ramp. Watch for some loose blocks at the top of the corner. [Note: an alternate start is to climb the diagonal hand crack in the large block just to the left (5.8). First climbed by Dan Price in 1990.]
Type:Trad
Height:28m
Rating:PG
FA by:Kevin Cody
FA on:April 17, 1981
Heinous wide crack with major pump factor. Beware of the guillotine like chockstone midway up.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2010
Just to the right of a green chimney is an incipient crackline. Good runner placement half way but then not much protection with the crux at the top.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:R
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:November 4, 2006
From the hanging belay of Scratch and Sniffle, climb up and then left along a diagonal line (passing two bolts) to join the first pitch of Popcorn.
Type:Mixed
Height:22m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:Summer 1994
Start at the far right of the crag as for Heart Transplant.  Climb the rightward trending slabby groove to a layback flake (crux).  Continue up slabby right-facing dihedral to top.  A worthwhile climb. The name was inspired by Sandrine's cat Mr T. 
Type:Trad
Height:13m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon, Sean Kelly and Sandrine Corbin
FA on:April 27, 2007
Climbs big holds to a wide horizontal crack. First ascent party moved left to surmount the final arete.
Type:Sport
Height:8m
Rating:G
FA by:Conan Baker
FA on:April 2008
Climb the short overhanging flake/crack just right of a right-arching crack.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:July 13, 2002
A beautiful and challenging line with good pro if you can hang around long enough to put it in. Climb the obvious crack on the longest face of the cliff. Where it hits the alcove at the roof (big cams useful here), "sneak" to your left on evasive footholds [Note: apparently on the FA, Steve got himself fully horizontal and wedged in this crack] until you reach another vertical crack (hands) leading to a large block. Traverse left again at the block, finishing up a final crack. At this point, curl into the fetal position and rock gently.
Type:Trad
Height:23m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Brewis
FA on:May 1995
Close to the right end of the Main Wall is a beech tree growing out of the base of the cliff. Start on its roots or just to the left up a friction bulge. Reach a grassy ledge at six metres and follow the obvious corner crack to the top.
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Peter McVey
FA on:July 2, 2000
A long-standing open project up the arete just left of Recognition---freed by Dustin Curtis, on a visit from Ontario.
Type:Sport
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Dustin Curtis
FA on:August 2004
A popular route which climbs a blobby-looking crack close to the centre of the cliff. Much harder than it looks. [Note: a critical flake halfway up the route sounds a little hollow but seems solid. Use caution.]
Type:Trad
Height:16m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:July 2001
Identified as a "Project" in NSR. Put up by Easy Steve and 5'2" S.Kelly.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Kelly
FA on:October 2008
A top-roped line at the far right end of the crag. Start right of the dead spruce tree in a crack and climb straight up to finish at the belay tree on top.
Type:Top Rope
Height:11m
Climb out the roof on big holds. Turn the lip and finish up the slab. Check your welds.
Type:Sport
Height:8m
Rating:G
FA by:Adam Benjamin
FA on:December 2010
Gain a slab at chest height via cracks (tricky) ---cross the diagonal crack and up the bulges above.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:PG
FA by:Becky Craig
FA on:July 13, 2002
An exposed arete climb. Make unprotected moves trending up and right (5.10b) onto the ledge a third of the way up the arete. Climb the right hand side of the arete (10a) or straight up (10c? - unprotected), and into the crack which leads to Doin' the Sneak. Follow this crack to the alcove under the roof and escape right.
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:R
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:June 1996
Follow bolts up a scooped slab between two crack systems, several metres left of the blank overhang below the Hollywood Bowl.
Type:Sport
Height:20m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2010
Start just above the water on the left side of the Priceless Slab at a two-bolt hanging belay. The belay can be reached by scrambling down the ledges (with difficulty) from the base of Popcorn. Climb straight up a crack and move right (past a bolt) to gain the slab. Pad up the slab to the base of a finger crack (which is where Priceless goes). Then traverse right past one bolt to gain the left-facing corner of Into the Blue. Head up the steep corner and then traverse right again to a ledge at the base of steep cracks in the middle of the first pitch of Mainline. Finish on Mainline. [Note: the orginal route as described is quite convoluted. A better line starts with Scratch and Sniffle and finishes straight up on Priceless (5.10b) and then Popcorn.]
Type:Mixed
Height:32m
Rating:PG
FA by:Kevin Cody
FA on:November 1984
Start as per My Roots Are Showing. From the grassy ledge, follow a smaller crack line on the right and finish with an exposed move stepping right around the arete.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Peter McVey
FA on:October 21, 2001
The obvious right-facing corner with wide crack. Great climbing on good pro. Get the recognition YOU deserve and fax all the magazines after sending this rad line!!
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Nick Sagar
FA on:Summer 1994
The original line (5.9) started as for Surfer Dude and then cut right to gain a left-facing corner and flake system. A direct start was completed the following year and makes a more complete route [FA: Steve Punshon, Sean Cassidy, September 22, 2002]. Not a bad line.
Type:Trad
Height:16m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:October 28, 2001
Climb the off-balance jam and layback crack, two metres right of Romancing the Stone.
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:G
FA by:Dave Edgell
FA on:August 1996
The obvious wide chimney near the right end of the cliff with a huge chockstone in the crack. You can climb behind the boulder (easiest) or to the left or right side of it. Fun and exposed moves exit the square cut roof above the chockstone. After cleaning off this filthy chimney, I thought that I had done the FA and called it "Five Foot Nine" after an unpopular Halifax band that I used to play with. A year or two later while on a ski trip with a friend, I mentioned the new climb. Tony replied that he had done it a few years earlier (!) - and furthermore so had a few others as it was known to be the only easy way up the cliff. Just goes to show you that you never can tell if something has been climbed before. Apparently the early ascents had avoided the roof finish by traversing left to join the finish of Stormtrooper.
Type:Trad
Height:14m
Rating:G
FA on:1992
The best climb at Eagles Nest. Climb easy cracks up the right side of the face/arete and at about two-thirds height step left onto the face to reach a good crack in the overhanging headwall.
Type:Mixed
Height:10m
Rating:G
An exposed and powerful line that follows the arete right of April Cool. Climb blocky and poorly protected ledges (5.6) up to the base of the April Cool corner (10 m). At this point, clip a bolt on the arete and move right, following the arete past several bolts. At the fourth bolt move left and finish on the steep slab on the left side of the arete. Ends at a rap station on the ledge.
Type:Sport
Height:22m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:Summer 1999
Fantastic route right of Mr. Cruller. Walk to the top of the ramp and start climbing up a dihedral to a short roof. At the roof move left into an obvious hand and finger crack that leads up the buttress to finish at a tree at the edge of the cliff.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:August 1, 2003
Start as for "Tree-Hugger" but step right and climb the inside corner up to a wider crack and final slab. Graded for wet conditions which are the norm.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:September 13, 2003
Climb the left hand crack leading to the Keyhole. Excellent climb.
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:G
FA by:Dave Edgell
FA on:Summer 1995
Abuction by aliens may in fact be preferable to climbing this route, particularly if it's wet. Looks much easier than it is, but welcome to Crow's Nest!
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:June 15, 2000
Climb the short corner to the right of Evening Wall.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
Climb the steep face just right of the white crescent shape and the broken corner. Steep climbing takes you to a rest below a small roof. Move up and left with power to gain a good hold above the roof. Finish up and right to reach the ledge.
Type:Sport
Height:20m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:October 1992
There are a couple of amusing stories (perhaps only suburban myths) regarding the name of this route. One story says that Danny Price missed out on the first ascent (hence "Priceless") but got the first free ascent. Another story says that Danny fell off of the route and landed in the lake (hence "Priceless"). And yet another story, possibly unrelated, says that upon landing in the lake, Danny lost his rack directly below the route and faced an expensive replacement bill (hence "Priceless"). Start at the right-most side of the slab and traverse left along a ledge just above the water to gain a thin vertical seam. Climb the seam and crack straight up to a bolt and then traverse left to reach a thin finger crack (5.10b) leading to a short overhang. Climb the left side of the overhang and then up a series of steps to reach the Popcorn belay. Finish on Popcorn.
Type:Mixed
Height:36m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Tony Veling, Jayar Milligan
FA on:November 18, 1982
A delicate face climb on the wall between the two major crack climbs. Very popular.
Type:Sport
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Dave Edgell
FA on:October 1996
The prominent left-leaning hand crack that climbs the highest part of the wall. Follow the crack until forced to make some face moves on small but positive holds. Move up and left to gain the right-angling rib. Finish straight up. Unfortunately this line is often wet.
Type:Trad
Height:17m
Rating:A0
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:July 2001
An awkward start accesses the obvious left-facing undulating wide crack.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:July 13, 2002
An enjoyable climb straight up the obvious chimney. Watch for loose rock.
Type:Trad
Height:11m
Rating:PG
FA by:Tony Windust
FA on:Spring 1996
Climb the nice ramp up to the right, plugging gear into the crack as you go. A little bit of seepage at the bottom of the crack but a fun and easy lead. This climb takes you up into the Hollywood Bowl a nice little wall with 3 routes.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Dave Willsie
FA on:2010
Climbs a low-angle crack up a buttress near the far right end. [This crack is just right of a thin crack that stops after about 2.5 metres.] Belay in cracks at the top and look out for an in-situ happy face.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:PG
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:September 2, 2000
A wide crack with some fun moves. A little bold, but not too bad.
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:June 3, 2000
This line follows weakness up left side of wall.
Type:Trad
Height:12m
FA by:Nate Smith
FA on:2010
Climb the slab just right of Priceless on sparse gear. Surmount the short roof at the top of the slab and move right to continue up a short right-facing dihedral. Follow weakness up to the belay for Into the Blue. Sketchy details for this route were extracted from Sean the day before he left for the Bugaboos.
Type:Trad
Height:39m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Sean McOuat
FA on:August 2002
Climb the right hand crack leading to the Keyhole with an interesting roof move to start. More of a variation to Three Friends and a Nut than a route in its own right. Above the notch, if you just stay in the right hand crack it's quite a bit harder than 5.8, and the gear isn't very good either. Most leaders choose to use both cracks at this point.
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:G
FA by:J.P. Brown
FA on:Summer 1996
At the far right end of the main cliff, where the path begins to rise up, drop down a gully to the right. Follow it down to sea level and a large flat block beneath a big overhang. Two cracks split the face at the left end. Take the left hand crack with a powerful start. Wear a lifejacket in case of fall!
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Brewis
FA on:May 1995
The wall to the right of Evening Wall has a small roof at its base and a couple of pods and caves on its face. Many possible lines exist here (up to 5.7) and are collectively referred to as The Cave.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
Middle of the three sport routes near the right side of the crag. Start with an awkward move on steep rock, following the bolts. The climbing relaxes a bit after the fourth bolt, but use caution as there is some hollow-sounding rock around and it's a bit of a hike to the next bolt. An interesting sequence takes you above a small roof and follows a left-arching flake/roof to reach good holds. A short rest and one last steep section takes you to the ledge. Excellent climbing.
Type:Sport
Height:20m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:October 1992
Similar to All The Rage but slightly harder. Start three metres left of the wide crack (Dreamberry Wine).
Type:Sport
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:August 18, 2000
An excellent line that starts three metres right of Shadows and Dust, and then follows horizontals up to a bolt on the relatively blank face. Move up and right from the bolt (crux) and follow obvious weaknesses to the top. Belay at a two-bolt anchor or in the trees above. Pumpy.
Type:Mixed
Height:16m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:October 28, 2001
The wide chimney crack left of The Crapper.
Type:Trad
Height:16m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:July 21, 2003
An historic climb - this was the first route established at Columbus. Very cool climbing at the right end of Keyhole Wall, starting with a funky ledge mantle into a beautiful crack. A couple of blocks move a little in the crack, but are probably solid.
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:G
FA by:Dave Edgell
FA on:Summer 1995
At the far right end of the crag, rising from the scree slope, are two fine routes. This one climbs a crack and corner system up past the tree on the ledge.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
Start directly below the left side of the big roof and climb the shallow right-facing dihedral and face until it is possible to move onto the left-most face, above the second bolt. Climb up and then right, crossing the diagonal crack to gain a final steep face leading to the big roof. Bust through the roof directly (crux), using a left-angling crack above, then step up to the chain anchors. It is possible to avoid the crux roof by exiting at the far right end of the roof (5.9) or by jumping on the diagonal crack exiting the left side of the roof (5.7), but why would you want to do that? [Note: you might like to bring along a #0.3 friend for the diagonal crack as you cross it, and a small cam for the last steps reaching to the belay station. Also, there is an old fixed nut in the crack above the roof that could be useful but is not essential.]
Type:Sport
Height:23m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:September 1991
"Pitch 1 ** (5.7, 40m): Climb the easy cracks up to the left-facing corner on the right side of the Priceless slab. At the top of the corner, steep but easy moves puts you on slabby terrain at the base of an overhanging wall. Traverse left (do not continue straight up the inviting corner) along the crack and slab below an overhanging wall until you reach the obvious break of Popcorn. Finish straight up on Popcorn or follow the original line up a right-angling dyke system (the dyke is steep and loose-ish, and is probably more like 5.8+, so I'd recommend that you finish on Popcorn and enjoy a quality 5.7 line without hurting yourself).
Pitch 2 (5.5, 10m): If you climbed the loose dyke, you are now ready to climb eight metres of steep blueberry fields and a fun but short (three metres) lichen-infested hand crack to reach High Ledge.
Pitch 3 (5.6, 12m): Start on High Ledge, five metres right of Popcorn and just left of a short overhanging wall. Climb the mossy hand-sized crack over a short bulge towards tufts of grass."
Type:Trad
Height:62m
Rating:G
FA by:Kevin Cody
FA on:July 25, 1982
A great pitch. The first four metres of laybacking are a bit unnerving unless you have some large camming units. From the triangular slot at the top, finish either left or right of the large block.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Heather Reynolds
FA on:Summer 1994
Climb the right hand arete and face via discontinuous horizontal and vertical cracks.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:PG
FA by:Becky Craig
FA on:July 13, 2002
A fun bouldery type climb at the far right end of the cliff. Start at a comfortable ledge and ascend the steep inside corner. Move up and left on big holds to a delicate corner traverse until you are on the big slabs at the top. Belay here.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:Dave Edgell
FA on:Spring 1996
Spicy climbing past 4 bolts.
Type:Sport
Height:13m
Rating:PG
FA by:Nate Smith
FA on:2010
Climb the short hand crack near the right end of the crag that leads to a narrow ledge. From the ledge, step left and ascend the dihedral to the top. This was the first route established at the cliff and was named after dead dogs everywhere. Although the name doesn't reflect it, this is actually a good line.
Type:Trad
Height:14m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:June 4, 2000
Originally documented as a variation to Big Mac, it's actually a fine route in its own right. Climb shallow dihedrals and shallow cracks past four bolts to the top.
Type:Sport
Height:10m
Rating:G
Climb up the broken blocks on the right hand side of the roof and then Aid left along the back of the roof to reach a left-angling crack (5.7) leading to the top.
Type:Aid
Height:30m
Rating:A2
FA by:Kevin Cody, Tony Veling
FA on:October 23, 1982
Follow weakness up the right side of the wall.
Type:Trad
Height:13m
Rating:PG
FA by:Nate Smith
FA on:2010
"Pitch 1 * (5.8, 20m): At the right side of the face, climb easy ground (trending left) to reach a series of steep vertical cracks in a corner. It is possible to belay here at a tree, or continue straight up the cracks to a good belay station in the trees.
Pitch 2 (5.6, 7m): Scramble up the slabs to High Ledge.
Pitch 3 ** (5.8, 15m): The most inviting hand- to fist-sized crack starting on High Ledge. This route is about three metres right of the short outside corner (Dry Idea)."
Type:Trad
Height:42m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Dale et al
FA on:September 2, 1978
Wax on and wax off the left side of the arete at the far right end of Keyhole wall. Starting from the lowest ground level, climb up to a large block on the ledge and clip the first bolt. Tall people can climb directly up from here. Shorter folks will need to jump or move in from the mossy crack on the right. Bring a cam for the top or run it out (not that bad). Nice route with interesting cruxes.
Type:Sport
Height:9m
Rating:PG
FA by:Chris Hayes
FA on:August 2002
A question of balance. Start on small crystals three metres right of Dreamberry Wine on a rectangular boulder. Climb up along a short flake to reach a small overlap and thin crack. At the top of the crack, stand up without hesitation to a horizontal break. Step left to finish on Dreamberry Wine, or continue straight up from break to break.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Brewis
FA on:Spring 1996
Start up Double Rope Disaster, aid the left arching seam on tied off pins and wires and connect to Hesitation Breeds Chaos. Work up Hesitation on small wires and free climb left up the Dreamberry Wine exit. Clean aid only please - this line crosses a few free routes that have delicate features.
Type:Aid
Height:18m
FA by:Nate Smith
FA on:November 25, 2007
A short but worthwhile climb on the right hand side of the short arete at the far right end of the Keyhole Wall.
Type:Trad
Height:6m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:May 9, 1999
A fantastic, exposed and powerful line with surprisingly good holds that climbs through the arching overhangs left of Black Diamond. Climb the broken corner on the right side of the overhang (as for A Puff of Blue Smoke) and traverse two metres left into a small niche in the roof. Pull through the overhang and follow the dihedral using good holds until you reach a square-cut block. At this point, leave the dihedral by swinging around to the right and onto the steep headwall. Follow left-angling steep cracks for three metres to reach a ledge and the end of the hard climbing. Scramble on to the top. [Note: double ropes are useful to decrease the rope drag, but not essential.]
Type:Trad
Height:28m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:November 19, 2000
A high quality line that covers surprisingly steep terrain for the grade, with good holds and good gear. Climb the steep corner leading to the big ledge at about 10 m height. Continue up the obvious crack/dihedral and into a bit of a squeeze chimney to reach a belay stance in the trees. Finish with the second pitch of Mainline to reach High Ledge.
Type:Trad
Height:19m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Dale et al
FA on:September 1978
A short variation to the Big Mac routes. From the big ledge climb the flakes and cracks directly behind the spruce tree. The golden arches meets its maker.
Type:Trad
Height:4m
Rating:PG-
Scramble up some scruffy ledges towards a small roof that you can see from the ground, with a shallow right-facing corner/dihedral above it.
Type:Mixed
Rating:PG
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:2010
Climb the right-curving undercling flake until you can reach the left-angling ramp. Traverse back right at the first opportunity for about five metres and then head straight up on small holds to the top. Variation: Avoid rope disaster by taking two ropes OR finishing out left along the ramp (easier but not recommended since the original finish is so much fun).
Type:Trad
Height:14m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:Summer 1994
Climb the wall left of Origins of Life. A small friend is useful in the crack above last bolt. [Listed as "#17 Project" in NSR]
Type:Mixed
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Alan Wilson
FA on:September 27, 2003
Climb a large crack system six metres left of the short roof, starting from a large ledge.
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:R
FA by:J.P. Brown
FA on:1994
No shortage of metal on this one! A long route with fun climbing and exposure throughout. Extend your clips to prevent rope drag. May the force be with you.
Type:Sport
Height:55m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2010
"Pitch 1 (5.8, G, 21m): Walk in from the right, along the big ledge. Climb the crack system to the right of Direct Line. [Note: you can also climb Direct Line from the base of the wall to the ledge and then walk right to the second crack system.] Near the top, climb up and right through cracks and flakes surmounting the steep step.
Pitch 2 (5.5, PG, 10m): A short scramble up to High Ledge.
Pitch 3 (5.10a, R, 15m): The mossy discontinuous thin crack and face near a very large spruce tree on the right side of High Ledge. Very little gear. Essentially a boulder problem off of the wide ledge and then it's over. Looks dirty and is probably heavily sandbagged. After the bouldery section, follow the easy corner above or finish left on one of the other lines."
Type:Trad
Height:46m
Rating:G/R³
FA by:Dan Price
FA on:July 1990
Despite the lycra reference, this is hardly a sport route (even for aging sport climbers who still wear lycra). Put on your Prana toque and crank up the delicate face past two bolts. Join the original finish to Double Rope Disaster.
Type:Mixed
Height:13m
Rating:G
FA by:Dave Edgell
FA on:October 1996
An unclimbed open project that is all ready to go. Climb the face to the left of the Origins of Life corner to a ledge and then continue up the second face.
Type:Mixed
Height:15m
Rating:PG
Another classic line at First Face! Climbs the left-angling crack system just right of the large overhangs. At the top of the diagonal crack, traverse right along a narrow ledge to a second left-leaning crackline with a few horizontal features for holds. Follow the crack to a ledge and a bit of a rest on hand jams. Then step left on the ledge to finish up a final three metre thin crack to the top (for this section save some small cams or nuts and try not to take away your finger jams!) Fantastic route. [Note: according to Sean Willett's guidebook, "local climbers cleaned this route, but before they could make their first ascent, chalk marks mysteriously appeared up the entire climb. The explanation? Two visiting climbers and former employees of Black Diamond Equipment had been in the area and unknowingly made the first ascent."]
Type:Trad
Height:22m
Rating:PG
FA on:June 1990
Start two metres right of Black Diamond at a tree and climb the steep face right of Black Diamond. From the start, climb past a couple of horizontal cracks. Then, using holds above a small overlap, move into the short narrow hand crack on the right. Follow this to a small roof and then follow a left-angling crack system crossing a series of horizontals all the way to the top. Sustained climbing with excellent moves throughout.
Type:Trad
Height:20m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:August 27, 2000
Starts on High Ledge in the thin crack to the right of Into the Blue (pitch 3). There are a pair of thin cracks in the short, steep, wall. Climb the left-most one. There's one bolt high up on the climb to protect the face climbing.
Type:Mixed
Height:13m
Rating:G
FA by:Rick Prenger
FA on:1988
Also known as the Oranges of Life - and why not! Fun climbing up the large corner, but wet and slimy in the spring (not unlike primordial ooze). Great stuff when it's dry.
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Sandie Baldauf
FA on:July 28, 1996
Immediately left of the short roof, a semi-detached flake marks the start of this route. Climb past the flake and move left of the roof onto a ledge. This is followed by a short headwall. A variation moves right past a small tree under the roof to gain a prominent crack through the roof (5.7).
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:G
FA by:J.P. Brown
FA on:1994
Climbs the wall across the gully from Phat Tuesday. Varied climbing leads up and right towards a notch in the roof. Mr. T describes the route as "spicy". Expect some runouts on the easier terrain.
Type:Sport
Height:50m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2010
Welcome to the Chicken Coop. An enjoyable face climb that weaves right then back left to finish on big holds. Anchor bolts are hard to see, but are set back from the cliff about five metres.
Type:Mixed
Height:13m
Rating:PG
FA by:Bob Scheibling
FA on:October 1996
Climb up through horizontals to ledge, then pull technical moves on side pulls up the overhanging face to jugs. RIP Mohammed Ali!
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Mick Levin
FA on:4/6/2016
Follow four bolts up to sequencey face on edges to rings. Between Float Like A Butterfly and Radio Flyer
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
Anchor Accessibility:Walking
Rating:G
Developer:Mick Levin
FA by:Mick Levin and Nathan Benjamin
FA on:September 22, 2016
Begins 4 m left of "Sorrows End 5.8". Step over the void and pull onto horizontal seams, clip on jugs and navigate easier territory to second bolt, then pulla delicate sequence on positive crimps and huck the mo to the lip. Stick clip first bolt if you're scared.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Bolts
FA by:Mick Levin, Shawn Smith
FA on:27/07/14
Climb the face just right of Origins of Life. The first half (up to the ledge) is mixed and the last half is all bolt-protected.
Type:Mixed
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Jonathan Graham
FA on:September 14, 2000
Climb past horizontal cracks and one bolt to the top, following a narrow crack system. [Note: at the time of writing, this bolt was missing its hanger.]
Type:Mixed
Height:8m
Rating:G
FA by:J.P. Brown
FA on:1994
A little further uphill from Ghost Dance is a wide dihedral. Follow the dihedral for about six metres on good holds (watch for loose rock) and then climb a short right-facing wall to reach the top of a pillar. Finish straight up from here to belay in the trees.
Type:Trad
Height:17m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Kelly
FA on:Summer 2000
One of the more popular lines here. Tricky slab climbing at the start leads to some easier climbing through a couple of mini roofs. Beware of rope drag. Great views.
Height:50m
Rating:G
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:2010
Climb the right-most thin crack (one metre left of the Blind Man's Bluff corner). Go over the steep bulge and follow the crack past a very small spruce tree.
Type:Trad
Height:14m
Rating:G
FA by:Rick Prenger
FA on:1988
Start at the far right end of the cliff, in a horizontal crack at the back of a two metre roof, fairly close to the ground. Traverse left along the crack until you can climb straight up the left-facing corner to the top.
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:June 1996
Short sport route up arete between Sorrows End and Vertigo (see photo).
Type:Sport
Height:7m
Rating:G
FA by:Jeremy How
FA on:Fall 2007
From the outside corner, climb the left-trending steps to the base of an obvious hand crack. Thought-provoking jams get you to the top. The first ascent was done in two short pitches with an unusual hanging belay, which inspired the route name.
Type:Trad
Height:17m
Rating:G
FA by:J.P. Brown
FA on:August 17, 1996
"Starts from a flat platform at the top of a gully (and partways up Phat Tuesday).
Semi steep climbing leads to some slab weavin' and then a little alpine adventure. Finish at Phat Tuesday anchors. One 60m rope will get you back to the platform."
Type:Sport
Height:40m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:2010
Climb past one bolt to the top. Interesting friction and mantle moves take you to the roof which is climbed directly.
Type:Mixed
Height:8m
Rating:G
FA by:J.P. Brown
FA on:1994
Climb the wide, dirty and mossy corner at the right side of the short steep wall. Continue to a bulge with two cracks in it. Climb the right-most one. A variation start climbs the face to the right of the starting corner (5.8).
Type:Trad
Height:14m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:July 1981
A discontinuous line that starts up easy terrain on the left side of a triangle-like feature to reach a bushy ledge (5.6). From the ledge, short steep moves take you to the top.
Type:Trad
Height:9m
Rating:PG-
FA on:1999
Start as for 3D but then follow the left hand arete all the way up. Near the top move left onto the face and finish in the trees. The route was put up by two of Halifax's undisputed fashion leaders - one of them likely wore his ever-stylin' Riddell approach sneakers; a favourite on the cat-walk.
Type:Trad
Height:17m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:September 14, 2000
This climb surmounts the large roof and can be climbed a few different ways with varying levels of difficulty. The left side is the most difficult. After much effort and much flying, Dutchman Tony Veling succeeded on a lead of the route.
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:R
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:1990
Climbs the right side of the gully, down and right of the platform for BBW (#20). Not as easy as it looks. Climbs the blobby rock up and left through a notch, and then weaves around on easy slabs to the top.
Type:Sport
Height:45m
Rating:G
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:2010
Climb the seam and face just right of the outside corner to the right of Blind Man's Bluff. Follow a slab and crack to the top.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG/R
FA by:Mike Moyles
FA on:mid-1980s
On the trail down from the top you'll notice a line of bolts on a short but extremely steep piece of rock. To date this has not been climbed and has been dubbed Rock Pollution by the cynics.
Type:Sport
Height:6m
Rating:PG
One of the best routes at the crag - certainly the most exposed! Start at the base of the arete, using a layback flake just left of the arete, or ascend directly to a bolt. Step right and ascend with difficulty into the awesome crack (5.9) leading to the top.
Type:Mixed
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Danny Bernard
FA on:July 12, 1996
Start at the base of the wall just right of a wide crack. Follow the crack up and when it starts to get hard (angling right) high tail it to easier ground on the left. Houdini would probably have gone right.
Type:Mixed
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:Summer 2000
Climb a thin crack and pocket system to the right of the Flying Dutchman roof. Sustained. Top-roped only. [Note: the wall looks very mossy here - not sure where this TR line goes exactly.]
Type:Top Rope
Height:5m
Dirty slab climbing left of the roof.
Type:Sport
Height:20m
Rating:G
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:2010
Start two or three metres right of Mainline and just left of the start of Up Over Down Under. Looks mossy. Apparently, laybacking is easier than jamming on this one.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 1982
Boulder problem up a smooth slab left of the twin cracks.
Type:Top Rope
Height:4m
Vertical climb leads up and through the industrial strength roof.
Type:Sport
Height:20m
Rating:G
FA by:Nate Smith
FA on:2010
A short but engaging section of climbing halfway up the Upper North Buttress. Start on Up Over Down Under or Men at Work and tackle the thin seam and face (one bolt) over a steep, clean bulge.
Type:Mixed
Height:6m
Rating:PG
FA by:Rick Prenger
FA on:1988
One of the best routes in the province. Start as for Alpomayo and just as you reach the ledge layback left off of good holds to reach a monster jug and clipping stance. Continue straight up the overhanging wall all the way to the top. It looks worse than it is from the bottom.
Type:Mixed
Height:18m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:September 12, 1999
Start as for The Escapist, but continue along the right-leaning crack at the top to finish.
Type:Mixed
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Jeff Lockyer
FA on:September 23, 2000
Start in the corner and climb past a bolt into a crack that leads to a large ledge. Continue up the wide corner to reach a steep headwall. Climb up and right past two bolts to gain a left-leaning crack. The climb was originally done in two pitches but is typically climbed in one (watch your rope drag though). [Alternate finish: (5.10b PG/R, FFA: Oliver Drake, Colin Matthews, April 1998) At the horizontal break near the top, go up and left with sparse protection to reach the top.]
Type:Mixed
Height:25m
Rating:G
FA by:J.P. Brown
FA on:September 1996
A tremendous face climb up the centre of the blank face. Very delicate climbing on small crystals.
Type:Sport
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Becky Craig
FA on:September 28, 2000
Boulder problem following one or both of the twin cracks at the far right end of the crag.
Type:Top Rope
Height:4m
From High Ledge, grab the large flake behind the big spruce tree and traverse right until it is possible to go up a finger crack. Quite enjoyable. Finish to the right of the steep face above, or move left and finish on Birthday (5.10b).
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Glen Donahue
FA on:August 1987
Climb the left-facing dihedral on the left side of the face. A harder variation ascends the steep wall right of the corner starting above the block.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG
One of the first lines put up at Paces Lake. Follows the obvious wide chimney from the base of the cliff to the right side of High Ledge. At the present time, the first part of the chimney is choked by a very large tree which I doubt anyone will bother to remove. The rest of the climb is quite enjoyable and if you've read this far, (if I was reading the guide and I saw "chimney" like you, I'd probably skip it) you should definitely get on it. Lots of holds on the faces of both sides of the chimney and good gear when you need it. Worth doing.
Type:Trad
Height:30m
Rating:PG
FA by:Chris Dale et al
FA on:September 1978
A climber's climb. Steep technical climbing leads up the sweeping face right of Alpomayo to the large ledge. Two bolts. Small friends or tricams protect the horizontal break. [Note: this route hasn't seen many repeats but two of them have been impressive on-sights.]
Type:Mixed
Height:6m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:September 1997
Climbs the left-facing flake and seam on the right side of the face.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:Summer 2000
"This is a fine mountaineering style route with great positions, requires competent leader and second.

Pitch 1, 10m 5.10a+  5 m left of Out of the Doldrums is a thin overhanging crack. Climb the crack by finger-jamming and laybacking to a sloping overhung ledge. In the wall above is a fingerhold. Use this to gain a good handhold above and left, then climb up on better holds to a small footledge. An adequate yet amusing belay on various nuts and cams, with a #2 Friend being particularly useful for a shallow crack on the right.
Note: a #1 RP was pre-placed in the overhanging wall to protect the move up off the sloping ledge and should still be there. Exercise caution as these babies can snap at relatively low shock loads.

Pitch 2. 30m 5.8  Move up and right to join Out of the Doldrums and follow this almost to the roof. Step down and make a long traverse to the right on good finger holds to join Itchy and Scratchy at the crux. Finish up this.

""What are those blue remembered hills,
What spires, what farms are those?""
A.E. Housman"
Type:Trad
Height:40m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:September 22, 2006
A short climb starting two metres right of Sweaty Cheese. Tenuous balance moves gain an awkward crack leading up to a large loose block (careful!). Finish on Alpomayo or rappel from the large ledge.
Type:Trad
Height:6m
Rating:PG
FA by:J.P. Brown
FA on:August 18, 1996
Follow two short but steep right-facing dihedrals up the centre of the broken wall to the right of Chimneys. Finishes up a short roof (crux) with blind moves to pretty good holds. Great position and exposure.
Type:Trad
Height:23m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:September 23, 2001
Look for a two metre north-facing step on the top of the cliff. Rappel down the face from here to a ledge just above the water. Climb back up via obvious cracks and dihedrals.
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Dave Edgell
FA on:May 1996
Climb through the roof and up cracks above. Belay using one bolt and a crack in the boulder.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG-
Climb a dihedral up to the tree. Climb left or right of the tree and finish directly up a crack to the top.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG-
Climbs the long arête to the left of Oskar. Start at a left-leaning ramp with loose-sounding blocks on it (you can avoid the blocks by starting on bench a little higher up - access from the start of Oskar). At the top of the ramp, step right onto a grassy ledge (this is the alternate start) and then up and left on good holds to a corner. Follow the corner up to a steep bulge. Pull over the bulge (crux) and onto a short slab before finishing on the final steep dihedral. Belay on High Ledge or run it up to the top of Meatgrinder. The route covers great terrain at a modest grade. [Note: at press-time the lower third of the route was inaccessible because of a fallen tree. Therefore, start from the grassy ledge.]
Type:Trad
Height:25m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:September 23, 2001
An excellent layback crack - gear is good but a little awkward to place. Finish on Penis Envy. [Note: this route was cleaned and top-roped by J.P. Brown in 1996.]
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Brewis
FA on:May 21, 1998
Climb the jam-crack which starts at the right end of the ledge beneath the Arch Wall. From the top ledge finish up on Penis Envy.
Type:Trad
Height:17m
Rating:G
FA by:J.P. Brown
FA on:August 27, 1996
Follow cracks and dihedrals right of the tree.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG
Climbs the finger crack left of Meatgrinder up to the slabs that end by the rappel tree.
Type:Trad
Height:19m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:August 2, 1987
A pretty good route with an unenviable name (just who was envying who anyway?), starting just left of JP's Arete. From the ledge, walk to its left end and climb straight up to the top (avoiding some loose blocks).
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Danny Bernard
FA on:Summer 1995
Have you seen Shrek? A short rambling line over slabs, muffins, and vegetation on the right side of the cliff.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG
Starts on top of a block at the base of a left-leaning wide crack, three metres behind a spruce tree. Awkward climbing takes you to a small niche where you can exit to the right or left.
Type:Trad
Height:17m
Rating:PG
FA by:Chris Dale et al
FA on:September 3, 1978
A project bolted by the top-rope developers but subsequently aborted. The route ascends the blunt arete at the right end of the Arch Wall. Climb past three bolts to a ledge (5.10b) and then climb the shallow finger layback crack to the top (5.11a), staying on the left hand side of the arete. [Note: small nuts can provide additional marginal protection on the top section but may not be essential.]
Type:Sport
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:(TR) J.P. Brown, Robin Creelman
FA on:September 1996
Climb the corner and short roof just left of No Purchase. The start is bouldery with not much gear and there is a very awkward bulge near the top. Just grim and bear it.
Type:Trad
Height:22m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:July 7, 2002
A fun crack climb just right of JP's Arete, with a deceptively awkward exit move. Collect your McPrize upon reaching the ledge and finish on Penis Envy.
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:August 1996
Start ten metres right of Meatgrinder at the top of a slab which runs down to the right and ends near Hurricane. No Purchase climbs the obvious discontinous finger cracks up the left-facing corner. After six metres, step right into a second dihedral and finish on a slabby ledge to the right of the Meatgrinder rappel.
Type:Trad
Height:24m
Rating:PG
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:August 1987
Climb the easy crack start to Ronald McDonald then bust right and follow bolts to a "gooch- puckering" finish.
Type:Mixed
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:November 17, 2003
Open Project bolted by Nick Sagar up the impressive arete left of Black Rose [see NSR pg.81 for a photo of the arete].
Type:Sport
Height:30m
Rating:G
Start about eight metres left of Four J's, below and right of a left-trending handrail. Not much gear on this one.
Type:Trad
Height:5m
Rating:R
FA by:Oliver Drake (solo)
FA on:April 1998
One of the finest lines at Main Face. Climb the obvious crack on the overhanging wall left of Hurricane. At the cave-like alcove, step left onto a block resting on the ledge, known as the "Shivering Horn," and climb up the short corner. Finish on easy slabs to belay at a small tree. Double ropes are handy if you climb this in one pitch - it's also possible to belay in the alcove to reduce rope drag. This will be a classic route. Excellent holds, good gear, steep, and unrelenting.
Type:Trad
Height:30m
Rating:G
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:June 27, 1999
Type:Sport
Height:6m
Rating:G
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:Fall 2009
Type:Sport
Height:6m
Rating:G
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:Fall 2009
Type:Sport
Height:6m
Rating:G
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:Fall 2009
Height:6m
Rating:G
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:Fall 2009
The crack line directly above the top-out for In Your Face.
Type:Trad
Height:5m
Rating:PG
FA by:Danny Bernard (solo)
FA on:Spring 1996
"The obvious large right-facing corner crack that starts on the left hand side of a 10 m high moss covered slab.
Pitch 1 (5.9, PG, 33m): Climb the low-angle crack into the corner (10 m) where the crack steepens. Follow the crack up to a ledge on the left to belay. Significantly harder when wet. [Note: this pitch was originally climbed as two separate pitches.]
Pitch 2 (5.8+, G, 15m): The final pitch moves up and right to a short overhanging crack and then finishes up vegetated cracks to a tree belay up and right. The last pitch can be avoided by walking off the ledge to the left (4th class)."
Type:Trad
Height:48m
Rating:PG
FA by:Chris Dale et al
FA on:September 3, 1978
Get right high - climb to the top of the whole crag! Use the crack directly behind the top of 3D, three metres left of the edge of the ledge.
Type:Trad
Height:5m
Rating:G
FA by:Hugh Pierce
FA on:September 22, 1996
Start to the left of the big tree at the right side of the Hurricane slab. Climb discontinuous cracks up the slab to reach the steep wall. Follow good incuts to the lip. Step right as you gain the slab above the overhanging wall. This is a serious and committing lead. [Note: bring small nuts to fidget in before you gain the slab.]
Type:Trad
Height:30m
Rating:R
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:August 12, 2001
Super thin climbing for 2 bolts to link into Peckerhead. Great line for crimp fiends! Home of the one-finger tooth deadpoint. Do it! [Listed as "#35 Project" in NSR]
Type:Sport
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Ghislain Losier
FA on:October 5, 2008
Basically a variation start to Hurricane. Start at the right-most end of the slab and follow the left-arching crack along the top of the slab until you join Hurricane. Rig a belay here and finish on Hurricane.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:G
FA by:Sylvia Fuller
FA on:Summer 1994
"Pitch 1 ** (5.11b, 28m): An aesthetic and powerful line. Start as for Summer Breezes and follow it up and left until you reach the base of a shallow left-facing corner. Make an awkward move up and right, over a bulge, to an alcove below a short overlap. Pull into the steep dihedral for six metres until you reach the slab. Exit via a short steep section on the right to gain a ledge and tree belay. [Note: bring small nuts and cams for this pitch.]
Pitch 2 * (5.8, 18m): From the belay, go straight up and left to gain a sentry-box feature. Step right and then up to gain a left-angling crack system and up to the top."
Type:Trad
Height:46m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Sean Cassidy and Steve Punshon
FA on:August, 2001
A stunning and varied crack climb that heads up the middle of University Wall. First ascended by Dr. Edgell, the acronym stands for "Phinally Done." Success on this route requires a steady diet of the Granite's Best Bitter, lots of strong coffee, and Mrs. Dunster's donuts.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Dr.Edgell, Sean Cassidy
FA on:August 1997
A really funky climb immediately right of Ph.D. Start with a small undercling flake in the left hand and crimp up to and past a bolt (crux) to a good horizontal. Follow the obvious crack to the tree.
Type:Mixed
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:November 6, 1999
Climb up the right-most side of Hurricane slab past a very small spruce tree until you reach a left-facing dihedral with a few ferns in it. Ascend the fingery dihedral up to a ledge. From here, the original line traverses right to the top of a blocky pillar (watch for loose rock around here) and then up to a large roof. Traverse back left until you can top out on the ledge. An alternate (and more direct) finish from the top of the first dihedral follows a flake and crack system up to the left.
Type:Trad
Height:25m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:October 11, 1991
Start as per No Brush No Bolts. After the small spruce tree, step right on a big ledge and climb good face holds to reach the arete and then the ledge atop the No Brush No Bolts dihedral. Follow the original finish of No Brush No Bolts. The route was put up soon after the publication of "Climb Nova Scotia" and in the words of Sean Willett (1994): "[was] destined to be a classic. . ." Sadly, the route remained unrepeated for seven years.
Type:Trad
Height:24m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:Summer 1994
Rising above Penis Envy, climb the short blocky corner at the back of the ledge. Yeah, girl power!!
Type:Trad
Height:5m
Rating:G
FA by:Peggy Pickering (solo)
FA on:1995 or 1996
Excellent bolted face climb just left of "Point of View" [Rap in or climb #37 or #38 from the ground to access the ledge]. A good vantage point to view skinny dippers -according to Keith.
Type:Sport
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Keith Swyer
FA on:Summer 2005
The allure of this climb was a lot greater than its worth - hence the name. The obvious finger crack on the left side of the arete (left of Freakee Stylee).
Type:Trad
Height:6m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:October 30, 1999
From the ledge at the top of No Brush No Bolts, climb the left-facing corner to another short ledge. Traverse right into a beautiful finger crack that finishes up the top headwall. Great climb with nice exposure on the upper buttress. [Note: if the lower pitches typically used to access this route are too hard for you, rap in from the top to the very comfortable belay ledge.]
Type:Trad
Height:35m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 1987
Open project immediately right of Sirens (#39). Bolted by Sean Therien in Spring of 2003. The crack is off-limits.
Type:Sport
Height:6m
Rating:G
Harder than it looks. Start up the left crack and lean into the second one at the first opportunity. The exit moves are freakee!
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:August 31, 1997
Climb an easy corner about 20 m right of No Brush, No Bolts to a ledge. Scramble up to another ledge and tackle the business directly up the short but steep wall above. The gear is pretty good, but it takes some effort to hang on and put it in. [I was gonna make some smart quip about Viagra here, but thought better of it.]
Type:Trad
Height:20m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:July 7, 2002
Excellent face climbing to the right of Freakee Stylee [64/65].
Type:Sport
Height:7m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:Spring 2003
"This climb is directly below a green streak that is visible on the upper wall and has a large flat area at its base.
Pitch 1* (5.10c, PG-, 20m): Climb the easy slabs into a left-facing rib/corner with a rounded crack in it. Follow the crack up left. Then quickly crank right out of the corner and then up to a small ledge. From the ledge, continue up an overhanging wall to a large ledge at the base of the ""Aids Wall.""
Pitch 2** (5.9+, G, 30m): Walk left along the ledge (~six metres) and climb upwards until you can traverse back right and gain the left-facing corner and left-angling crack system leading to a short roof. Powerful moves with excellent gear take you through the roof and onto low angle dirty climbing up and right to a belay tree."
Type:Trad
Height:50m
Rating:PG-¹
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:1989
The wet and ugly looking corner on the Upper Tier. Despite appearances this is a really nice climb (no joke) - the mud and moss are all part of the character. The gear is also better than it looks from the ground.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:PG
FA on:1995
Start on the Upper Tier below a large boulder. Delicate climbing around the hint of a crack leads to the top, passing one bolt. Half of the battle is placing gear. Lose sleep over it, it's worth it.
Type:Mixed
Height:9m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:August 1997
From the top of the first pitch of Seize the Day, ascend the overhanging hand and fist crack to the top. A good sustained line. Apparently the first ascent involved a lot of resting on gear (hence the name) and was first freed around 1992 by Sean Willett.
Type:Trad
Height:32m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling, Sean Willett, Dan Price, J.Holmes
FA on:July 1990
"The main feature of this climb is a large right-facing dihedral that ends at the blank overhanging wall right of Aids. The arete forming the left wall of this dihedral resembles an aquiline nose below a jutting forehead.  The start is only marginally protected by small wires and a ground-fall is a real possibility. A bold approach is needed. A selection of small to micro RPs is crucial and double ropes are recommended.

Pitch 1. 5.9+ R  (S.Punshon and P. MacVey)
Start between Sieze the Day and Jekyll and Hyde at a short corner behind a tree (white flagging tape). Climb up into the corner (wire placements) then move left on awkward sloping handholds until a pull up to small incuts is possible (wire runner to right). Traverse boldly left on better fingerholds to reach a good side-pull below a sloping ledge (very poor small wire placements). Climb directly up over some small ledges to the prominent right-facing dihedral and climb it until it ends at the blank overhanging wall. Summon up what little courage remains, then hand traverse right across a huge, scary, hollow-sounding wedged flake (The Winking Eye) to reach the chimney-crack of Dr. Jekyll. Belay a few metres higher on a good sloping ledge. An exciting lead.

Pitch 2. 5.6 (P. MacVey and S. Punshon)
Climb cracks in the left arete to a large bush-covered ledge. Finish up a pleasant left facing dihedral to the left of a large tree."
Type:Trad
Height:55m
Rating:R
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:October 8, 2006
"From the base of Mr. Puff, traverse left along a gravelly ledge (4th class) to reach a left-facing corner.
Pitch 1 (5.8, PG, 22m): Go up the corner to a ledge at the base of a steep gully.
Pitch 2 (5.6, PG, 30m): Finish up the gully with sloping, bush-infested ledges to reach the top.
[Note: a direct start is possible (5.9+) by starting directly below the corner up a steep face leading to the ledge. Gear for the direct start doesn't look great.]"
Type:Trad
Height:52m
Rating:PG
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 1982
The short easy crack ten metres right of Insomnia.
Type:Trad
Height:4m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Kelly
FA on:Summer 2001
The left-arching crack right of Just Say No To Crack.
Type:Trad
Height:4m
Rating:G
FA by:Jeff Lockyer
FA on:Summer 2001
An undisputed classic. Originally graded 5.7 (what were they smoking?), this was Nova Scotia sandbagging at its finest. Start behind a large detached block and follow an open dihedral up the left side of the red mottled face. Tree belay at top. Scramble off left to the top of the cliff or up right to join the second pitch of Conan.
Type:Trad
Height:27m
Rating:PG
FA by:Dan Price
FA on:1981
The first rock face you come to along the trail. Short and steep, this climb starts on a four-inch tree stump and climbs a bouldery (~V4) left-angling seam to a horizontal break. Step left and up for a short distance then right a bit to exit. The gear is there but it's a little hard to find.
Type:Trad
Height:7m
Rating:R
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:September 17, 2000
A relentless climb up the steep face right of Mr. Puff. Start just left of the arete bordering the mossy gully of Conan, up a short, steep crack (bouldery) to gain the slab. From there follow left-angling cracks to reach a vertical crack that heads up to a small roof. Follow the crack up the right side of the roof into a "v-slot" and then up to a good belay stance.
Type:Trad
Height:27m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 1987
Start with the same bouldery section as Don't Let Go and then follow an enjoyable, discontinuous finger crack along the arete to reach a small ledge below the ever-steepening wall. At the pod, swing right around the corner and climb the left edge of the arete to the top.
Type:Trad
Height:29m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:May 1992
"Pitch 1 (5.6, 32m): The unbelievably mossy dihedral. Someone has climbed this. Go figure.
Pitch 2** (5.9+, 20m): An exciting pitch. Scramble up and right from the top of Pitch 1 and then ascend the awkward, left-leaning crack starting from a grassy ledge. Finishes by a large boulder on the top."
Type:Trad
Height:52m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 1982
This climb follows the wedge-shaped feature between Conan and Lunchbucket, starting one metre right of a forked birch tree. Climb the wedge to a ledge with two spruces and continue up the left-facing corner and up right to another ledge and belay tree (pine).
Type:Trad
Height:27m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 1987
"Pitch 1 (5.7, G, 27m): A dirty mossy groove that leads to an overhanging block. Take the left side of the block to join Wedge or head directly up the right side (preferred). Both options lead to the big ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.7, G, 21m): Yet another dirty mossy groove (why stop the fun after Pitch 1)! Goes to the top directly behind the top of the first pitch."
Type:Trad
Height:48m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 1982
Fun bolted face climb to the left of the 2nd pitch of Sleeper. Cleaned, equipped, and named by Sean Kelly and Conan Baker; reluctantly FA'd by SC.
Type:Sport
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:July 2005
"Fun route that starts on top of a large block immediately right of the Lunchbucket groove.
Pitch 1 (5.7, 26m): Follow cracks and dihedrals up to the large belay ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.6, 18m): Climb the obvious crack and corner on the right end of the ledge up to a large spruce tree (also known as the Sleeper Rappel)."
Type:Trad
Height:44m
Rating:G
FA by:Tony Veling
FA on:June 1982
Start on the same ledge as the second pitch of Conan. Climb the arete and right face past one bolt (crux) to gain a left-leaning jam crack. The first five metres are quite tricky.
Type:Mixed
Height:19m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:August 8, 1991
From the wide ledge, climb the steep crack system starting two metres left of the top pitch of Sleeper. Go up and right at the end to finish at the top of Sleeper, or go left to the top of the second pitch of Lunchbucket.
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:G
FA by:Kevin Cody
FA on:June 1987
A hidden gem discovered and cleaned by the deceptively tall Sean Kelly.  Start on a ledge left of Shiver Me Timbers about 30 ft below the top of crag. Climb the short layback crack to good holds and move right and up to join the top of Shiver Me Timbers.  To quote Kelly on the first ascent "If this is 5.8 then I'm five foot two!".  
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:September 2005
Named for a rotting tree that was removed from the route prior to it becoming a route. Accessed by climbing the first pitch of Sleeper and then doing a sideways rappel down 10 m to the right off of the ledge, or by scrambling up steep ledges just right of the start of Sleeper. Follow the obvious jam crack that curves left past a tree stump up the steep face. Solid jams and nice exposure. Belay in cracks at the top, or higher up at the Sleeper Rappel.
Type:Trad
Height:30m
Rating:PG
FA by:Mike Moyles
FA on:1987
Follows a flaring slot and crack system just left of the Piece of Cake roof. Short but powerful. Accessed by 4th class scrambling up steps and ledges right of Sleeper or uphill from Buffy. Or you can rappel in from the top from a flagged tree located a short ways downhill from the Sleeper Rappel.
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:PG
FA by:Ted Johnston
FA on:1987
Start in a corner under a big roof three metres off the ground. Climb out the roof to the right and layback up the corner to the top. [Note: see Trial Run description for directions to reach this climb.]
Type:Trad
Height:10m
Rating:G
FA by:Kevin Cody
FA on:June 1987
Just left of Gargoyle, climb the flakes up through the funky groove. Take a breather and then move up and right to join the finish of On The Brink. Much harder than it looks. The gear is there but you have to work for it.
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:September 13, 1992
Start below a flake that resembles a crocodile/gargoyle facing the water. Climb up past two bolts and start traversing right around the overhanging prow. Finish at a chain anchor on the Lichen Virgin slab.
Type:Sport
Height:11m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:August 1992
Around the corner from Gargoyle is a big dirty slab that is left of, and below, an interesting series of chossy-looking overhanging cracks. On The Brink climbs along the left edge of the slab, passing the chains of Gargoyle and finishing up an enjoyable arete which leads to the belay ledge. Rappel from a tree or scramble off left to the Mr. Puff area.
Type:Trad
Height:23m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:August 1992
Start as for On The Brink but before reaching the Gargoyle chains, head straight up to an overhanging, flaring slot. Climb the slot or move left to gain the arete.
Type:Trad
Height:22m
Rating:G
FA by:Heather Reynolds
FA on:July 1992
Start at the far right edge of the slab below the overhanging cracks. Follow the upper edge of the slab up to the left to finish on Lichen Virgin or On the Brink.
Type:Trad
Height:22m
Rating:PG
FA by:Heather Reynolds
FA on:September 13, 1992
One of the overhanging chimney cracks right of Dirty, Wet and Loose. Good tree station at top. According to the FA team, "the pro sucks."
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:PG-/R
FA by:Nick Sagar
FA on:October 5, 1995
Just uphill from the overhanging choss-pile is a steep corner (short scramble to reach the base). Climb the left-leaning dihedral to a tree belay on big holds. Easier than it looks.
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Willett
FA on:July 25, 1992
"Up the hill from Buffy, start behind and left of a slightly leaning large tree. Two other large trees to the left were blown down by Hurricane Juan.

This route was put up shortly after a ""to bolt or not to bolt"" debate on the web. I don't expect it will be repeated anytime soon; here's Steve's description:

""Climb up onto a large block to gain a thin crackline (runner). Hand traverse boldly right on big holds and pull up to a slab. Climb up easily but without gear to a large unstable block at the base of a corner (Caution: death groundfall, pulling off the block will probably wipe out leader and belayer). Stand up on the block, nut placement at arms reach on left. Stem up corner and make an awkward move right to good holds at top of climb."""
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:X
FA by:Steve Punshon
FA on:October 28, 2003
An enjoyable sport climb a short ways uphill from the left side of the Waterfront Buttress.
Type:Sport
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Sean Cassidy
FA on:July 26, 2000
The obvious jam crack two metres left of the "cyclops hole" which leads through a short overlap to the ledge. Short but fun.
Type:Trad
Height:11m
Rating:G
FA by:Colin Matthews
FA on:May 14, 1995
The central crack behind a "two-trunk tree." Boulder up a series of flakes from the left to gain a flaring crack (gear here). Continue past a small spruce growing in the crack.
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:PG-/R
FA by:Steve Brewis
FA on:May 14, 1995
The right hand crack with a big pocket at one-third height. Boulder in from the right along an obvious ramp and then straight up the crack. Short and powerful. Exiting the crack is tricky.
Type:Trad
Height:8m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Steve Brewis
FA on:May 14, 1995
From the ledge above Sam's Miaow, climb a short crack leading to a one metre roof. Then traverse left to far side of roof where you can top out. Even shorter than the routes below it!
Type:Trad
Height:5m
Rating:PG
FA by:Steve Brewis
FA on:May 14, 1995
The left-leaning hand and finger crack. A little dirty but a great climb.
Type:Trad
Height:12m
Rating:G
FA by:Kevin Cody
FA on:1987
The thin crack and face to the right of Farewell to Arms.
Right of Slim Dusty. Climb through the ledges up into high corner.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Jack Bennet/Todd Foster
FA on:5/10/2016
Located at the right side of the crag, on the overhanging face. Begin below large block, move up into the steepness, climb flake and hit the clips! Awesome climb.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Quick Clips
FA by:Todd Foster/Jack Bennet
FA on:5/10/2016
A perfect route for the 5.11 climber looking to break into the next level! Step onto the ramp then make either technical moves through crimps, or bouldery moves through sloping ledges to pass through the first crux. From there, fight the pump through another 25 feet or so of 30°-40° climbing straight out of the Red River Gorge to claim The Golden Egg. On your way down, enjoy a philosophical debate with your belayer about whether a grade of 5.11d or 5.12a is more appropriate for someone of your specific height and reach.
Type:Sport
Height:11m
Anchor Type:Perma Draws
Anchor Accessibility:Lead
Rating:G
Developer:Todd Foster
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:July 20, 2016
Climb steep bolted crack left of Golden Egg. Stood as the open "doorknob" project for the better part of a year until Sean T put it down. Awaits a second ascent!
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
Developer:Sean Therien
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:September 2016
Right of No Rainbows. Follow three bolts up the slab, move through corner onto left face, and over bulge above to reach anchors.
Type:Sport
Height:13m
Anchor Type:Rings
Anchor Accessibility:Rappel
Rating:G
Developer:Jack Bennet
FA by:Jack Bennet/Todd Foster
FA on:July 13, 2016
"Ordeal - noun - an ancient test of guilt or innocence by subjection of the accused to
severe pain, survival of which was taken as divine proof of innocence." Climb straight up the middle of the wall through overhang to steel carabiners at anchor. Excellent climb, varied climbing with consistent difficulty."
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Quick Clips
Developer:Mick Levin
FA by:Mick Levin
FA on:September 2016
Just left of No Rainbows head up broken corners to small roof, then turn lip thru notch and stand to anchor.
Type:Sport
Height:12m
Anchor Type:Rings
Anchor Accessibility:Rappel
Rating:G
Developer:Mick Levin
FA by:Mick Levin
FA on:August 29 2016
Right of Stoke-i-fy. Weaves up through good holds, with a crux in the middle.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
Anchor Accessibility:Rappel
Developer:Todd Foster
FA by:Todd Foster/Jack Bennet
FA on:July 17, 2016
Balance up and thru stemmy between section of interesting flattened quartz dykes to crux horizontals.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Bolts (Titanium)
Rating:G
Developer:Todd Foster
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:September 2016
Located in the middle wall under a small roof. Move up through cool features to the small bluging roof, topping out to stellar jugs. This route was Meg's first experience cleaning a truely dirty route in Nova Scotia. Good thing she has a passion for gardening. Meg is only 3 apples tall and had to borrow clown sized shoes during the FA, so no excuses for being short. It is however perfecly acceptable to ask someone to hang the draw above the roof.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Todd Foster/Meg Lamb
FA on:5/18/2016
Follow titanium glue-in bolts up left of Stokify. Some holds broke off and makes the most sketchy moves directly above your draws. Not for the faint of heart.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Bolts (Titanium)
Developer:Todd Foster
FA by:Todd Foster
FA on:September 2016
Found on the "road" side of the Wave Wall (near the end), located just right of a very large chimney beginning on a ledge 25-30ft off the ground. Climb the obvious wide crack system on the left end of the face to a ledge with trees. Access the starting belay ledge via a short wide crack system 10 ft into the chimney, or scramble up awkward ledges downhill of the route. Finish at tree belay in Sunset Alcove.
Type:Trad
Height:23m
Rating:PG-
FA by:John Bowles
FA on:August 27, 2005
Right of Assassination of Blunderbore, underneath the anchors. In development.
FA by:Matthew Peck
FA on:~
"[Access: Rappel down Sunset Wall using the Belay tree for Ocean Pacific at the western tip of Trough Ledge. Pass a set of bolt anchors to reach a ramp with 2 perfect cracks. Continue down the ramp to its base and a large spruce tree which has been cleared at its bottom for a belay. An alternative approach is to scramble from the ground up some ledges to the belay tree at the ramp base.]

Pitch one (5.7 A0) From the belay tree step left to gain a perfect crack up the ramp to huge block meeting the orange face of the Sunset Wall. Pull onto a right-trending ramp and continue to a bolt anchor.

Pitch two (5.9 A0) Move right on the belay ledge to gain an obvious undercling crack. Undercling your way to a vertical crack and pull over the lip to Sunset Alcove.

Note: This overhanging route will go free, but will require some cleaning. The rock is very solid but very large grained; as such the surface is crumbly."
Type:Trad
Height:55m
Rating:A0
FA by:John Bowles
FA on:October 3, 2005
Right of Siege the Castle. In development.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Jack Bennet
FA on:~
Not intended to be a route, but was climbed and found to be the easiest way off Sunset Wall from Sunset Alcove. From Sunset Alcove, step up behind a small spruce tree, continuing left and up through trees and ledges to the belay tree for Ocean Pacific. A bushwhack, but very easy and fast.
Type:Trad
Height:20m
Rating:PG
FA by:John Bowles
FA on:October 3, 2005
On the lefthand side of the middle wall, at the foots of the large overhanging and blank face. Route follows the obvious crack up to the top corner. Rings are located just to the right of where the crack tops out. Great intro trad climb
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Rings
Developer:Nathan Benjamin and Jay Darrow
FA by:Nathan Benjamin/Jay Darrow
FA on:5/18/2016
From Sunset Alcove step up behind a small spruce tree to a dirty crack. Continue up the crack stepping left at its top through dirty, mossy blocks until you are standing on a protruding one which feels like a diving board, finishing up through trees to the belay tree for Ocean Pacific. This climb is not nice, but it is a moderate way off of Sunset Wall.
Type:Trad
Height:18m
Rating:PG-
FA by:John Bowles
FA on:October 3, 2005
[Note: this proposed line follows a crack system up the right side of the face to reach the arete, exiting through the highest notch of rock on the Sunset Wall. Not climbed yet due to unfinished cleaning - but is expected to be a great exposed pitch off of Sunset Alcove. Not shown on the topo.]
Type:Trad
Height:18m
"Pitch 1(5.6 PG): Begin at the base of the Dihedral Area on Wave Wall at the base of a double birch tree with flagging tape. Head up a ramp for 60ft until a crack system allows access to a ledge with a large spruce on it. A belay may be established here approx 80ft or you may continue on as done during the FA, directly above the tree belay through a series of dihedrals and steps to a bolt anchor at the base of the Dihedrals Area (where the slab meets the headwall). This pitch is not great, but is the easiest and currently only way to access the excellent dihedral climbing ground up.

Pitch 2 (5.10b) From the anchor climb the obvious short dihedral past one pin to a finger crack which leads to another bolt anchor below a roof. This anchor was placed to allow access to #307 ""Bite the Pillow"". Belay here or link the next pitch in one push.

Pitch 3 (5.9) From the anchor move left and up into a beautiful hand crack at the base of the roof, follow this to the top and a tree belay on Trough Ledge.

[Important! Roof above first anchor is very sharp. The FA team cut through the sheath of two lead ropes (one after only 4 rappels). Bring garden hose to protect edges if you are going to rappel the route!]"
Type:Trad
Height:100m
Rating:PG
FA by:John Bowles
FA on:October 1, 2005
This route may be accessed from the first bolt anchor of Ocean Pacific. From the bolt anchor move left into an overhanging fist crack to gain a left facing dihedral follow it through a few small roofs to a sloping ledge at the same height as Ocean Pacific’s second bolt belay. From here a blind move is made to the left to gain another dihedral below a large roof. Under cling the roof around the corner to an alcove, called Sunset Alcove, at the top of the Sunset Wall and build a natural anchor.
Type:Trad
Height:36m
Rating:PG
FA by:John Bowles
FA on:October 3, 2005
"From the second bolt anchor on Ocean Pacific climb up to the large roof and undercling around it, being careful not to pull on the huge death block at the roof top (does not move with a crow bar, but looks scary). Ascend the perfect hand crack to the top where it joins Ocean Pacific for the last few feet. This route could not be cleaned under the roof due to its sharp lip which cut 2 ropes. It was climbed without inspection or cleaning below the roof, but is very well cleaned above the roof. A very nice route and will hopefully get traffic to clean it up, very solid rock.

[Important! A large block exists directly above the roof. John pulled on it while climbing, as it is almost unavoidable when doing this route, and later tried to free it with a crowbar, but had to give up short of dislodging it in order to prevent cutting the lead rope on a sharp edge mentioned in the previous route description.]"
Type:Trad
Height:20m
Rating:PG
FA by:John Bowles
FA on:October 1, 2005
"[This route may be accessed by rappelling from the tree anchor (2 ropes) used for the Trough Exit route. Rappel to the bolt anchor used for Annihilator (as used on FA) or the first bolt anchor on the route Ocean Pacific. (The Annihilator start begins with an unprotected 45ft 5.4 slab traverse from Annihilator bolt anchor.)

The route follows an obvious dihedral crack on upper Wave Wall between Main Wave Wall and the Wave Wall Dihedral Area. Sustained vertical 5.9 crack and face climbing eventually leads to the tree anchor used for the route ""Trough Exit"". Double set of #2-3 BDs plus standard rack recommended. An extra #4 and #5 (last piece) will help but is not required. Small cracks can be protected with smaller gear; however rock is moderate quality at the surface, meaning large cams will offer added safety in the main hand-fist sized crack. Will likely be a very nice line following some traffic. A very obvious and sustained route.

[Important: Two large, but avoidable blocks need to be hurled into the abyss below; one is 45ft up the crack on the left face (you will want to pull on it bad. Don’t!!) and the other is 70ft up, resting atop a very large diamond shaped chock stone which seems solid (this one above the diamond block is easily avoided).]"
Type:Trad
Height:46m
Rating:G
FA by:Chris Hennigar
FA on:October 2, 2005
Start at the South Facing corner of Wave Wall and Trough Ledge. Climb through a series of cracks and between the large detached rock tower and main face of Wave Wall to gain the Knife Edge trail and a distant tree belay. Works well as an alternate exit (versus ascending a fixed line from the Trough Ledge repel anchor access). It is the only established exit from Trough Ledge and Dihedral Area top out.
Type:Trad
Height:15m
Rating:PG
FA by:Chris Hennigar
FA on:October 1, 2005
"An ambitious and inspiring looking line, first spied by Fred Berube and Jeremy How. A couple of stations have been established and three bolts on the first pitch were installed on lead. Here's Fred's description:

To access this route follow the knife edge trail at the top of Wave Wall. About 20 yards before the dead end (bolt anchor) there is a tree with two stripes of pink flagging tape. This is the top of the third pitch. Two rope rappel and stopping at both anchors is essential. The rappels are just shy of 30m. You could probably do it with one 70m rope. There is a bolted rap station at the top of the open book pitch and one below the open book pitch on top of the slabs. This route is still a project and requires more fixed protection.
Pitch 1 (35m):
At the left end of Wave Wall just left of the large roofs there is a 100ft open book way up high above the slabs. Start directly below this feature near a tree (flagged with pink tape). Climb up the slab past bolts. This pitch may eventually be broken up into two pitches with an anchor at the top of the slabs just below the vertical wall guarding the rap station. To gain the ledge above the short vertical wall, climb through the right part of the roof then move up left to a short dihedral. The rap station is just above this dihedral.
Pitch 2 (35m):
From the bolt anchor move out right about 8ft then climb straight up to the open book past sustained 5.12 climbing for 40ft. Half way up the open book feature you'll gain a small ledge where you can cop a good rest before heading up another 40ft of pumpy 5.10 gear climbing in a sweet open book. Top out the steep corner and continue up for 20ft to find a bolt anchor on your left.
Pitch 3 (30m):
From the anchor, start up the vertical crack but don't go too far. Although this crack looks nice you'll run out of crack to climb. So when you leave the belay move right about 6ft until you reach another vertical crack that runs parallel to the other one. Follow it until you reach a grassy ledge. At the grassy ledge, perform a delicate balancy maneuver back out right onto the face. Don't go for the dihedral at the back of the grassy ledge. Continue up easy climbing to top. Stay right and the top out will be easier."
Type:Mixed
Height:100m
"Rap down the Wave Wall (2 raps) to start at a hanging belay (3 bolts) at the lip of the big roof. Mucho spectacularo.
Pitch 1 (5.9+, 30m) - Follow 7 bolts to a 2 bolt station.
Pitch 2 (5.8+, 27m) - Follow 5 bolts to the top."
Type:Sport
Height:57m
Rating:PG
FA by:Sean Therien (TR solo)
FA on:August 2003
"Sean Therien spent three years obsessing about this route: dreaming, scheming, scrubbing, bolting, and psyching. His objective: a complete line up the main face of The Wave Wall. The first half of the first pitch was bolted on lead with the help of Joe Rossiter. The rest was rap bolted or protected with gear.

Pitch 1 (5.10d; ~14/2): Starting directly below the headwall, take a circuitous path left, then up through a steep notch, up a ramp to the oft-dripping roof. Traverse right (cams) to a hanging belay (2 bolt anchor) below the headwall. [Note: this pitch was ""french-freed"" through the notch by Cassidy, but is quite free-climbable.]

Pitch 2 (5.12 A0; ~14/3): This looks like a ""heavy duty"" pitch, but actually, it's ""supah heavy duty"". Start with A0 moves on bolts from the belay, and then free climb the steep patina face up to a short roof (crux). This move is protected with a bolt located above the roof, although clipping it on lead would be a bit tricky (on the FA, this bolt was pre-clipped with a long draw and a nut slung over the bolt [no hanger]. [SC note: I didn't lead this pitch but it may be possible to get some supplemental gear in around here.]

Pitch 3 (5.9): Climb through the notch in the roof just up and right of the belay. Continue up wide discontinuous sandy cracks to the top. Dubbed the ""vertical beach"" pitch, it's dirty but pretty fun."
Type:Mixed
Height:180m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Sean Therien
FA on:May 13, 2006
This route was quietly put up by Cory and Tom in 2002 (so quiet that it eluded publication in Nova Scotia Rock!). From the photo it appears that the route ascends relatively low angle slabs and eventually ends at the top of "A-Sent from Heaven".
Type:Trad
Height:30m
Rating:PG-
FA by:Cory Richardson
FA on:June 19, 2002
Right of Declaration of Stoke. Work up the right layback and move onto the ledge. Climb up and left, following the slopey rail, and move through the upper slab to reach the anchor. Shoutout to Nathan Benjamin and Jay Darrow for the FFA!
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Todd Foster/Jack Bennet
FA on:5/18/2016
Located on River wall just downhill of a 7 ft chimney which splits the cliff. Start below an obvious crack in the dihedral on a ledge 25ft up the corner. Ascend the corner to its top and a ledge with fixed slings. Majority of the route is 5.7.
Type:Trad
Height:30m
Rating:G
FA by:John Bowles
FA on:August 27, 2005
To the right of Fe Fi Fo Fum. Climb up roof and onto face. After fourth bolt move left and momentarily go into Fee Fi Fo Fum before jetting back towards the anchors above the final bolt. Declare stoke.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Todd Foster/Jack Bennet
FA on:5/13/2016
Located at the far left end wall of the entire crag, line located in the middle of the wall. Tricky first movement, followed by nice moves up through good holds.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Jack Bennet/Todd Foster
FA on:5/9/2016
To the left of Fe Fi Fo Fum. Starts right of the main crack. Going up some blocky ledges to a juggy lay back with good feet. Then about half way up trend left along a good horizontal to meet the crack and finish up with solid locks and face holds. You can place gear almost anywhere
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Shawn Smith
FA on:5/13/2016
Go straight up the main crack. Slightly worse gear and slightly hard moves. Needs cleaning of loose holds and dirty cracks
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Shawn Smith
FA on:~
Left of Fe Fi Fo Fum, near end of the wall. Start underneath the blocks and climb straight up through wide moves on slightly steep face. Anchors located up above final hanger for crux final moves.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
FA by:Todd Foster/Jack Bennet
FA on:5/9/2016
Starts just to the right of Taming the Shrew. Climb up, right past the roof, and up the long commiting corner.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
Developer:Todd Foster/Jack Bennet
FA on:September 2016
Starts by the downed trees, climbs up the face staying right of the small dihedral. Pull small roof, up seams, and right past block at the top to reach the anchors. Awesome climb - very consistent grade.
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
Developer:Todd Foster/Jack Bennet
FA on:September 2016
Follows the corner up the dihedral and into the mini chimney. Takes a standard rack. Shares the same anchor as Humpty Trumpty.
Type:Trad
Anchor Type:Rings
Rating:G
Developer:Sean Therien/Jay Darrow
FA on:November 2016
Climb the face and arrete left of "Into the Breach"
Type:Sport
Anchor Type:Rings
Developer:Sean Therien/Jay Darrow
FA on:November 2016