Big Pond is a small quartzite cliff located just off Highway 4, a few kilometres southwest of Ben Eoin Provincial Park. It has long been a popular cliff with Sydney climbers and for a short time was also a hot spot for bouldering. That is until the highways department diverted the road and consequently blue up (!) the precious boulders. No boulders, no bouldering!!! Luckily the Sydney boulderers found greener pastures near Louisbourg. The Big Pond cliff is visible from the road and is on private land that is used occasionally as a quarry. As of yet the climbing area has been unaffected by blasting, however future development may encroach upon the cliff (and with any luck it will create a second pitch for climbers!).
Black Brook is a short but enticing granite crag located 20 km north of Ingonish, within the park boundary. Most lines here have been climbed (about ten) and have been documented in an unreleased mini-guide to the cliff written many years ago. Unfortunately, the details were not shared by the developers due to the possibility of an impending long term climbing ban within the park
The Bow Wall was developed for climbing in 2002 and was found as a result of persistent efforts by Steven Punshon. The cliff is not extensive but is up to fourteen metres high and is dominated by a very striking prow. All the routes here are of decent quality and many of the lines require a committed leader. However, all routes are also easily top-roped.
The cliff dries quickly as it faces southeast and catches a lot of sun. There’s very little wind here so expect to get eaten alive during bug season. From the top you can see Main Face, First Face and Columbus.
For the experienced climber out for high adventure, Cape Clear is the spot. Located in the middle of Cape Breton Highlands, it includes an amphitheatre of granite rock that reaches a continuous height of over 100 metres in places. The rock is generally very solid, but unfortunately the number of completely naturally protected lines is limited. Perhaps the most tantalizing feature of the place is the presence of a logging road (driveable even by most derelict climber vehicles) to within 25m of the top of the cliff.
Gaining interest with climbers from all over Nova Scotia, it has long been a popular party spot for the locals who contribute one of the biggest objective hazards to climbers: flying beer bottles (not to mention rocks, tvs, golf balls, portapotties, etc.) – so beware! In 2001 the first route was put up on the main headwall. Some earlier exploration of the flanks were conducted by Clarence Barrett in the late 1970s, with a couple of leads and a couple of top-roped climbs.
This peculiar rock formation attracts many visitors, most of whom are there to inspect the “Fairy Hole”, a cave of sorts that extends from the beach untold distances into the hillside. Apparently, the trail to the cave is known by the Mi’kmaq as “the trail of the Little People” and legend has it that Glooscap entered the cave to retire from the outside world.
The routes here sound interesting but the top-outs seem to be a little dirty, due to a thick cap of glacial overburden. Lots of potential for me lines here. The routes were first recorded in the Climb Cape Breton guidebook and like all routes in the guide were ungraded. Use your judgement when tackling these routes.
Crow’s Nest is an imposing yet inviting climbing site that beckons from across the waters of Terence Bay. It is located in the Terence Bay Wilderness Area and is not terribly easy to get to.Although it is possible to hike in (after a good three hours of bushwhacking) it’s must easier to paddle over or get dropped off by boat. Regardless of how you get there, it is certainly an inspiring outing if your’e into steep crack climbing.
The main wall hosts about fifteen very obvious lines (ten of which have been climbed so far on the main wall) and almost all of them are high quality with good gear and great moves. More routes are also possible on surrounding outcrops. The climbing is pumpy to say the least. Luckily the hand jams are abundant and make resting at least a possibility on occasion. Not recommended for top-ropers since the anchor setups are a little funky.
This small crag was stumbled upon by intrepid explorers Steve Brewis and Colin Matthews in early 1995. (Note: this is not actually an island) As legend has it, they were looking for Crow’s Nest, unwittingly got directions for Sorrow’s End, but drove too far, only to find a new cliff rising from the sea. After scrubbing the most obvious line, which appeared hardest routes here – and at 23 metres, the longest. The name “Easter Island” was coined later after people noticed the presence of two headstones (or Ahu) visible from the top of the crag. When there’s a strong sea breeze, this area is excellent for climbing in June when the blackflies make climbing elsewhere unbearable. A standard climbing rack is required for all routes and belay stations.
Franey Mountain is a popular hiking destination and rises high above the Clyburn River Valley. Solid granite cliffs sit at the upper tier of the “mountain” and are modest in height (25-30m) but reasonably extensive and would off a full weekend of climbing and exploring. Four climbs are recorded here to date and much potential exists. One of the most interesting features on the cliff is a detached pillar (known as The Splinter) which from the valley floor looks enormous. Unfortunately it is less impressive after you slog your way up the scree slopes of Franey to find a pillar standing only ten metres high, but nonetheless, it offers some great exposures and vistas of the Atlantic Ocean and the Highland Plateau.
Not to be confused with Cape Smokey, Little Smokey is a coastal outcropping located approximately seven kilometers north of Ingonish on the Cabot Trail. The metamorphic rock (gneiss) here is solid in most places and offers climbs of a full rope length.
Only two lines have been recorded to date, but it’s very likely that more of the face has been climbed. The climbing is generally easy on solid granite-like gneiss interspersed with crumbly volcanic dykes. Looks interesting. Be careful of tides. Protection seems to be fairly limited; be prepared to sling the odd tree root.
Not far from the national historic site of Louisbourg is a stretch of rocky coastline that is popular with climbers. Primarily a bouldering destination, the rock around the coast in this area reaches a height of 10m or more in places, justifying the use of a rope. The rock is clean and solid, but a little sharp. Some routes (undocumented) have been top-roped and easier ones have likely been soloed. Two bolted lines are documented here.
Medicine Wall is a short cliff found at the west end of Shannon Island in the sheltered waters west of Lower Prospect. Considered by some to be more of a high-ball bouldering area, it woudl require a rope for most of us. Nonetheless the climbing looks good and includes some beautiful paddling around the islands to get there. (Warning: the seas can get high here and will cover most of the slab at the base of the cliff, making escape via canoe or kayak difficult).
The initial climbing development was started here by Chris Hayes, Shawna Penny, Eric Gilbert, Brian Managhan, and Mike Kohler, who cleaned and top-roped most of the lines (many of which were subsequently led by them or others). They were so enthusiastic about the place after its discovery that they started a website (which expanded to include beta on many of Nova Scotia’s other established climbing areas).
The Old Mill Crag is located near the town of Harmony, by the ruins of an old mill along the south side of a stream. The climbing history is largely undocumented, but it seems that climbers have been visiting the place for at least 15 years. Many of the climbers have been based at nearby CFB Greenwood. Top-roping seems to be the norm at this crag, but some of the routes may be leadable, and perhaps have been led already. Specific route histories have not been recorded to date and therefore are not included here.
The rock is highly stratified vertically, providing some slabby faces (with very little protection opportunities) and some highly fractured faces (with moderate protection). There are about eight different faces, ranging in height from eight to twelve metres in height with climbs ranging from about 5.6 to 5.10. In the spring and fall, the high water levels of the stream make it difficult to access the base of the cliff, and the bugs are insane between May and June. The best time to visit would be sometime after June.
Railway Crag (or Skull Rock as the Musquodoboit Trailways Association calls it) is located on the edge of the White Lake Wilderness Area, just a few kilometers away from Musquodoboit Harbour. The cliff is rarely visited because only a handful of routes have been developed and the rock appears a little dirty. However, the rock is solid with plenty of features and has a respectable height of 30m in places. It is also one of the most easily accessible cliffs on the Eastern Shore.
At the top of the crag, the Trailways Association has built a guardrail to keep visitors from hurling themselves off. Unfortunately it doesn’t prevent them from hurling garbage, rocks, and other things off, so wear a helmet.
The Railway Crag is worthy place to visit if you only have a short climbing day. And if you do go there with more time, I’d strongly recommend hiking the 10km Admiral Lake loop trail (built by the Trailways Association). It’s a great hike and at the back end of the loop there’s a nice view across Admiral Lake where you can see an impressive looking cliff (dubbed by climbers as the “Promised Land”) in the distance. This unclimbed cliff has had at least half a dozen visits by climbers (mostly during the winter when lakes are frozen) but no known ascents to date. Although it sure looks good from a distance it is unfortunately a little less impressive when you’re at its base.
The cliff at Sandy Cove is known as “The Mountain” by locals, and offers some interesting climbing on solid basalt. To date, only a limited amount of development has taken place, but there are a few crack lines and top-roping routes established, with opportunity for more routes in the future. The cliff is broken into two sections: The Warm-up Wall to the west (up to 10 metres high) and the Main Wall on the east (up to 30 metres high).
This severely overhanging series of granite cliffs is located approximately 2.5km northeast of Cape Clear. The cliffs are up to 60 metres high and mostly overhang with very little natural protection (some areas of the cliff are better than others). One route has been established so far on an unusually un-steep section of rock on the upper left tier.
This is one of the least visited cliffs in Nova Scotia despite its awesome and unique character. The quartzite rock face rises out of the ocean on Ship Rock Island, located a short distance from the mainland. On calm days the paddle over is quite easy but depending on which route you take there can be some exposed sections to be careful of. Best to avoid the place on really windy days.
An unusual cliff for the South Shore, the Skapper is well hidden in the woods and doesn’t rise above a body of water like most other cliffs in the region. Definitely a good find by explorer Sean Drohan, who named the cliff after a close friend’s dead dog. At its highest point, the granite cliff rises about 20 metres above the moss covered forest floor and consists predominantly of one continuous face (as opposed to the corners and tiers of Columbus Wall for example). At the north end of the main cliff is a smaller outcropping with a number of routes on it. These make good warm-ups for the main wall and are unfortunately the only routes that catch much sun in the afternoon. In general, routes at the Skapper are harder than they look – deceptively steep in fact (you’ll understand after you’ve climbed a few “easy-looking” lines!)
Considering its proximity to Halifax and the number of steep obvious lines, it is destined to become a popular mid- to late-summer climbing destination. Unfortunately, in the off-seasons (spring and late fall) this crap is largely dripping. Very buggy in spring.
A small but enjoyable climbing area near Hubbards on Dauphinees Mill Lake. Definitely worth a visit, but you must own some sort of watercraft to get there (40 minutes paddle by canoe). To date, there are about ten completed routes and room for about ten more. Development began in 2000 with a substantial cleaning and top-roping effort from Chris Hayes, Shawna Penny, Amelia Hunt, Joachim Stroink, Craig Dobbin, Brad Newman, and Mike Kohler. The name of the cliff arose because of the plethora of life-forms observed during initial visits, including snakes and other things living in the cracks. If you’re like me and not very fond of snakes, this is probably not the place to visit in the spring or early summer. Late summer or fall is pretty much snake-free and the changing leaves are awesome here.
The cliff at Trout Cove is located in the community of Centreville on the Digby Neck. Although it is a relatively small crag, it offers high quality sport climbing on steep and solid basalt, with excellent holds and positive friction. Climbers first visited the place around 1995 with some early top-rope reconnaissance. In 1999 bolting began and routes were developed by some Digby Area climbers: Jeff Lockyer, Karel Allard, Marie-Josee McGraw, and former New Brunswicker Ghislain Losier. In 2000, visiting Brit John Harwood added a couple of top-rope lines. Although there are only ten routes here to date, the climbs are of such quality that a visit is well-deserved.