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Eagles Nest

Overview

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Access Info

Climbing Status: Open to Public

Access Notes: Leave No trace

Access: Full info

Parking GPS: 44.72153, -63.64931

Main Cliff
#1 - Main Cliff

#1 Nursery Slab 5.0 - 5.6 PG Trad 🔃 | 1 Star |9m|2 Glue in Anchorr The low-angle slab littered with cracks located at the left end of the cliff is very popular with first time climbers. It can be climbed numerous ways. 2 Ring Ancor at the top middle of the slab.

#2 Boomin System 5.7 Sport | 2 Stars 10m|3 bolts Climb the steep left wall of the dihedral to a ledge. Then follow the left edge of the face past two bolts. The name was apparently inspired by some equipment that Nick Sagar took to his high school grad.

#3 The Overhang 5.9 PG- Trad | 0 Stars 13m The cave-like overhang in the middle of the steep wall. Exit the cave on the left and scramble up the crack to finish. The route is fairly slick and gear is difficult to place on this one.

#4 No Man's Land 5.11 Sport | 0 Stars 9m|3 bolts A somewhat contrived line to the right of the overhang which traditionally stays in the finger crack to the left of the blocky holds. The route is easier if the holds to the right are used. The route is often dirty because of erosion run-off from the top. In the late 90's a climber (later known as "Flyin' Brian") attempted to ascend the route without using the bolts and suffered a six metre fall which resulted in two broken ankles. In a first-hand report of the descent: "I would've fallen farther but the ground stopped me."

#5 Kestrel 5.9 PG-/R Trad |1 Star 9m Climb up a series of flakes and blocks on the right side of the overhanging face. The gear is bad on this one unless you use the bolts on No Man's Land. Watch for loose rock. [Note: I haven't climbed this one, but there's a good chance it's harder than 5.9.]

#6 Guillotine 5.10a Sport | 2 Stars 8m|2 bolts|2 Ring Anchor Directly above a narrow ledge, a large "guillotine-like" block hangs over the top of the wall. Climb past three bolts towards the block and carefully traverse under the roof to the right. The block seems to be solid, in spite of its appearance, but you can never be too sure!

#2 - Main Cliff

#7 Gully Wall 5.6 Sport 🔃 | 2 Stars 8m|4 bolts|2 Bold Anchor Climb the white slabby face left of Sea Gully past three bolts and a couple of bulges. Nice climb.

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#8 Sea Gully 5.5 G Trad | 0 Stars 9m Climb the obvious corner over a small block to a ledge and then up a final dihedral to the top. Finishes at a tree.

#9 Black Streak 5.7 PG- Trad | 2 Stars 15m Climb the wall and arete to the right of the Sea Gully corner. Gain the big ledge and finish up the final dihedral of Sea Gully.

#3 - Main Cliff

#10 Evening Wall Direct 5.11c Top Rope|1 Star 9m|2 Ring Anchor A difficult sport route. Climb the lower face past two bolts, avoiding the cracks on the right. Finish on the original route.

#11 Evening Wall Direct 5.9 PG Trad | 3 Stars 10m|2 Ring Anchor The best climb at Eagles Nest. Climb easy cracks up the right side of the face/arete and at about two-thirds height step left onto the face to reach a good crack in the overhanging headwall.

#12 Tony's Corner 5.4 R Trad | 0 Stars 10m Climb the short corner to the right of Evening Wall.

#13 The Cave 5.6 G Trad | 2 Stars 13m The wall to the right of Evening Wall has a small roof at its base and a couple of pods and caves on its face. Many possible lines exist here (up to 5.7) and are collectively referred to as The Cave.

#14 Crack in the Ceiling 5.7G Trad | 2 Stars 13m

#4 - Main Cliff
#5 -Main Cliff
Black Slab

#15 Big Mac 5.7 G Trad | 1 Star 12m At the far right end of the crag, rising from the scree slope, are two fine routes. This one climbs a crack and corner system up past the tree on the ledge.

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#16 Big Mac Sport 5.7 Sport | 2 Stars 14m|4 bolts|2 Ring Anchor Originally documented as a variation to Big Mac, it's actually a fine route in its own right. Climb shallow dihedrals and shallow cracks past four bolts to the top.

#17 Hamburglar 5.9 Sport | 1 Star 12m|4 bolts|2 Ring Anchor Start from the ledge to the right of Big Mac Sport. Use sidepulls and underclings to move up into the shallow dihedral. steal the ending above the ledge from Big Mac Sport.

#18 Wanton Destruction 5.9 PG- Trad | 0 Stars 4m A short variation to the Big Mac routes. From the big ledge climb the flakes and cracks directly behind the spruce tree. The golden arches meets its maker.

#1 Sliding Board 5.7 Top Rope | 0 Stars 6m Boulder problem following one or both of the twin cracks at the far right end of the crag.

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#2 Foxhole 5.8 Top Rope | 0 Stars 6m Boulder problem up a smooth slab left of the twin cracks.

#3 The Unforgiven 5.9 Top Rope | 0 Stars 8m Climb a thin crack and pocket system to the right of the Flying Dutchman roof. Sustained. Top-roped only. [Note: the wall looks very mossy here - not sure where this TR line goes exactly.]

#1 - Black Slab

#4 Unnamed project 8m

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#5 Flying Dutchman 5.1 Sport | 1 Star 10m|5 bolts This climb surmounts the large roof and can be climbed a few different ways with varying levels of difficulty. The left side is the most difficult. After much effort and much flying, Dutchman Tony Veling succeeded on a lead of the route.

#2 - Black Slab

#6 The Ugly 5.8 Sport | 1 Star 8m|2 bolts Climb past one bolt to the top. Interesting friction and mantle moves take you to the roof which is climbed directly.

#7 The Bad 5.8 G Trad | 0 Stars 8m Climb past horizontal cracks and one bolt to the top, following a narrow crack system. [Note: at the time of writing, this bolt was missing its hanger.]

#8 The Good 5.6 PG Trad | 1 Star 8m Immediately left of the short roof, a semi-detached flake marks the start of this route. Climb past the flake and move left of the roof onto a ledge. This is followed by a short headwall. A variation moves right past a small tree under the roof to gain a prominent crack through the roof (5.7).

#9 Pod People 5.10a Sport 🔃 | 3 Stars 12m|5 bolts|2 Ring Anchor Start with a hand in each pod and mantle up. Climb the face directly to the right of the arête. At the ledge step out left to finish up the face to the anchors.

#10 The G Route 5.6 Sport 🔃 | 2 Stars 12m|3 bolts|2 Ring Anchor Located just right of The X Route. Start on the low end of the ramping small ledge to the left of Pod People. Go straight up.

#3 - Black Slab

#11 The X Route 5.5 X Trad |0 Stars 8m Climb a large crack system six metres left of the short roof, starting from a large ledge.

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#12 Mobster Sauce 5.6 PG Trad | 0 Stars 5m Pull over the small roof on the Arete at the far left of the Back Slab, then continue up the short featured face to the top.

#4 - Black Slab
Slab Annex
#1 - Slab Annex

#13 All Aboard the Crazy Train 5.9 Sport 🔃 | 2 Stars 12m|5 bolts|2 Bold Anchor Climb the dihedral to the first bolt, continue up the centre to the ledge, and then up the face. The climb was bolted the week that Trump fired CIA Director James Comey - hence the name. Bring Slings and biners for the top anchor bolts.

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#14 Disillusionment 5.7 PG Trad 🔃 | 0 Stars 12m 2 Bold Anchor Start on the ramp to the left of All Aboard. Climb up and to the left of the dihedral and the tree. Bring 2 alpine draws to sling trees, micro cams and a large-ish nut.

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#15 Where the Wild Things Are 5.8 Sport 🔃 | 2 Stars 8m 3 bolts 2 Bold Anchor Start on the jugs below the overhanging arête and move right (there is an easier direct start, but it is a lot less fun.) Go up the alcove to the ledge and up the centre of the wall to top out. For a slightly harder variation avoid the jugs around the corner at the top of the alcove. The name comes from the primordial feeling at the base... and also the dried coyote shit at the top when I first cleaned it. Bring slings and biners for the top anchor bolts.

Slab Annex  Sport/Trad/Top Rope routes

Schoolroom  Sport/Trad/Top Rope routes

#1 Drury Lane 5.4 PG Trad | 0 Stars 13m Have you seen Shrek? A short rambling line over slabs, muffins, and vegetation on the right side of the cliff.

Schoolroom
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#2 Itsy Bitsy Spider 5.5 PG Trad 🔃 | 0 Stars 13m Follow cracks and dihedrals right of the tree.

#1 - Schoolroom

#3 Jack and the Beanstalk 5.5 PG- Trad 🔃 | 1 Star 13m Climb a dihedral up to the tree. Climb left or right of the tree and finish directly up a crack to the top.

#4 Humpy Dumpy 5.6 PG- Trad 🔃 | 2 Stars 13m Climb through the roof and up cracks above. Belay using one bolt and a crack in the boulder.

#5 Little Jack's Corner | 5.5 P Trad 🔃 | 0 Stars | 13m Climb the left-facing dihedral on the left side of the face. A harder variation ascends the steep wall right of the corner starting above the block.

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