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Bolts on bolts

Climb Nova Scotia made a major purchase of hardware this year. Thanks to amazing one-time prices offered by MEC and Grand Wall Equipment via the Trail Shop we’ve got a nice supply of bolts and hangers for the next few seasons. We anticipate continuing to support a core group of long-time developers as they selflessly bring us more rad new routes year after year.

Vintage angle-iron bolt at Main Face Photo by Todd Foster

Vintage angle-iron bolt at Main Face
Photo by Todd Foster

As well, CNS is refitting classic routes with modern, safe hardware and continuing our efforts to standardize anchors across the province by installing rappel rings to replace many tree anchors. This ethic is standard around the world at many popular climbing destinations and is endorsed by Climb Nova Scotia as the best way to minimize long-term impacts of successive generations of climbers.

Three sets of stainless steel rappel ring anchors were installed at First Face in May 2014. They are located at the top of Black Diamond on the far right of the cliff, above the ledge for Mea Culpa/LA/Slave to Fashion in the center, and at the top of Anniversary Waltz on the far left. These new anchors allow safe and convenient rappels with easy pulls.

New development continues at the GSpot sport crag and an update to the now-outdated 2010 topo is forthcoming this season. Get out there and try the new lines!

In tandem with these projects, trail maintenance remains a priority for us as a method to reduce erosion and confine our impacts to a smaller area around the crags. If you want to help with any of these initiatives feel free to contact us at climbnovascotia@gmail.com

Disclaimer: CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. Fixed hardware is to be used at your own risk. Climb Nova Scotia and its volunteers accept no responsibility and make no assurances about the quality or reliability of any anchors or fixed gear. Please do not toprope through fixed anchors. If you aren’t sure how to rig a safe anchor, don’t do it. Don’t let someone rig anchors for you if there is any question of their competence. Read John Long’s “Climbing Anchors 2nd Edition”, practice at home, ask questions, and understand the limitations of your equipment. CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. ACCIDENTS HAPPEN AND YOU COULD DIE OR KILL SOMEONE ELSE. GRAVITY IS UNFORGIVING.

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Boulderfest 2014 early bird tickets on sale Monday June 30 2014 at Trail Shop

Boulderfest 2014 early bird tickets on sale Monday June 30 2014 at Trail Shop in Halifax at 9am!

Background photo by Ruby Photography, used without permission but with great gratitude.

Background photo by Ruby Photography, used without permission but with great gratitude.

Online ticket sales begin Thursday, July 3rd at 9am Halifax time, right here at climbnovascotia.ca

 

Tickets are non-refundable unless the event is cancelled.

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Main Face Clean and Climb – June 21-22 2014

Climb Nova Scotia will be holding a Clean and Climb event at Main Face on the Summer Solstice weekend.  We have rented the cabin from 10:30am Saturday, June 21st to Sunday, June 22nd and we want YOU to come on out and lend a hand.

RSVP to climbnovascotia@gmail.com if you are planning on attending so we have an idea how many folks will be there. Come for an afternoon or bring a tent and stay the whole weekend. CNS will rig fixed lines for scrubbing and have limited brushes and personal protective gear available (so please bring your own work gloves, wire brushes, eye protection, and helmets if you have them).

 

With your help, some Main Face line could get cleaned and climbed! (Photo by Roger Fage, used without permission from https://sponsormeow.wordpress.com - Gavin on 3D at Columbus Wall)

With your help, one of Main Face’s forgotten gems could get cleaned and climbed! (Photo by Roger Fage, used without permission – Gavin on 3D at Columbus Wall)

Like many other rope climbing areas in Nova Scotia, Main Face ‘s classic lines see enough traffic to keep them clean, while other routes need a helping hand every few years. Come discover your new favorite route and tidy it up so other folks will climb it and keep it clean. Crusty trad climber volunteers will be on hand to help you navigate the cliff. Many hands make light work, so the more the merrier. There might even be time for climbing our freshly cleaned lines afterward!

 

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CNS log book at GSpot

Nova Scotia’s newest and most popular climbing area, the GSpot sport crag in Musquodoboit, has been many climbers’ first introduction to outdoor rope routes over the last few years. Climb Nova Scotia wants to know more about how this crag is being used and by whom. Help us help you by signing in each and every time you visit the crag.

CNS logbook under Totally Industrial at Gspot. Please sign in!

CNS logbook under Totally Industrial at Gspot. Please sign in!

We have installed a sign-in book at the bottom of Totally Industrial at the top of the main trail in to the crag. Please take a few moments to sign in with your name, the date, and your projects for the day. Feel free to leave us some comments as well and let us know what you think of the GSpot!

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Climb Nova Scotia 2014 Annual General Meeting

Climb Nova Scotia will hold its 2014 Annual General Meeting tomorrow, Wednesday May 28 at 7pm at the Trail Shop in Halifax on Quinpool Road. Come on out and hear what we accomplished in the last fiscal year and our upcoming plans. Attendees can also meet the candidates for the 2014/2015 executive and elect the new board. Following the AGM agenda, the Trail Shop is offering one hour of tax free shopping to CNS members in attendance for the meeting!

agm

Please note that the AGM is open to CNS members only. If you wish to attend but are not currently a member, please click here to purchase a membership now.

Main Face Trail Update

After meeting someone working outside on the land just behind the house that you pass as you hike up the first big hill, climbers have been asked to use a side trail that cuts off into the woods just before where the little greenhouse was last season.

The trail is marked very well with flagging tape and has been cleared of most branches and trees. It takes you directly up to the top of that first large hill instead of cutting around it through an area that is now being used as a Sugar-bush. It re-joins the trail that has always been used just as it begins to head down the section that is always muddy and wet, especially now in case you were wondering.

Happy climbing!

mainface

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Thursday Night Bouldering is back!!!

Every Thursday climbers will meet at the Armdale Rotary in the parking lot in front of St. James Church at 6pm sharp!  From there climbers will carpool to the climbing area scheduled for that evening.

Climbers of all skill levels are welcome! This is a great way to discover new bouldering spots and get to know other climbers.

Make sure you wear appropriate footwear as you will likely get your feet swamped at least once.  A flashlight or headlamp is always handy as we sometimes hike out after dark.  Dress in comfortable, weather appropriate clothing and bring climbing shoes, chalk and a crash pad if you have them.  Be prepared to chip in for gas if you’re catching a ride with someone – it’s always appreciated.

May
8 – Club Night at MEC*
15 – Corn & Bung
22 – Nouveau Riche
29 – Joey Ramone/Holiday
June
5– Jessie’s Diner
12 – Prospect
19 – Chrystal Crescent
26 – Polly’s Cove
July
3 – Jungle and Gros Poisson
10 – Sheet Harbour
17 – Chebucto Head/Chebucto Foot/Duncan’s Cove
24 – Lake and Satellite/Asteroids
31 – Thoughtful Spot
August
17 – Doghouse/Scrappy
14 – Area 51/Scoop/Mega
21 – Porcupine Fortress
28 – Memorial/Eggs/Godzilla

*Club Night is a great way to meet other climbers and stock up on shoes, pads, chalk etc. before the Thursday Night Bouldering Series starts!

deals

*** NOTE: We understand these areas may not cater to everyone. Therefore, if it is necessary, we may change the destination without notice. Please try to be at the rotary before departure at 6:00pm so you are in the loop! ***

 

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Growing Youth Climbing Scene

The NEW Wall at North East Kings Education Center!!!

Blank Wall - NKEC

Before

We built 406 square feet of climbing wall in 31 hours with 5 volunteers and the help of some O2 students, climbing youth and tech teachers.

Middle

Building

The wall is 29 feet long and 14 feet high with a slab and multiple angles, prows and arêtes designed by Adam using Google Sketch Up. This climbing wall is an amazing addition to the school allowing kids another opportunity to stay fit. It is also a great tool for teachers to teach youth problem solving and team work, while helping youth to build confidence and have fun.

 

The Youth Comp/Grand Opening

End with holds

Finished and Freshly Set

On March, 23, 2014 seventeen youth descended on the NKEC’s new climbing wall to experience the 45 quality problems set by the volunteers the previous day.  These youth ranged in age from 8-18 years old but were all pulling hard.  Their goal was to get as many points as possible during their 3 hours of climbing and many of the youth climbed right to the end!  Thanks to the great sponsors every youth went away with a prize (or two).

A special thanks to all the parents for coming out and supporting your kids, we couldn’t put on these events without you!

Climbing Kids

Youth Attack!

The North East Kings Education Center Climbing Wall and the Youth Competitions could not have happened if it was not for the hard work and dedication by Adam Connor and the other volunteers.  Without their help, the construction, setting and supervision of climbers could not have happened. Thank you Phil, Bekah, Heather x2 and Chris.

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CNS wants YOU (to take a position on the executive)!

Do you have a vision for the future of climbing in Nova Scotia? Are you motivated to get other people active in the sport you love? Do you need to pad your resume with volunteer experience so you can get into a graduate program or maybe even get a job after university? Look no further!

CNS is accepting nominations for all executive positions for elections at the annual general meeting on Wednesday May 28 2014. If you are considering a place on the ballot, you must be nominated (or nominate yourself) by emailing climbnovascotia@gmail.com. We need people to run for Access Chair, Secretary, and Membership Coordintor as the incumbents are not running for re-election!

A typical CNS executive meeting

A typical CNS executive meeting

Please include your name, the position you are interested in, and a short summary (300 word maximum) of your qualifications and why you want to sit on the board. Nominations will not be accepted after 17 April 2014.

Positions and descriptions are as follows:

  • President – Ensure alignment of CNS activities with organizational goals and funding qualification criterion, draft meeting agendas, chair monthly meetings, delegate tasks, oversee financials, attend events, deal with government stakeholders, website posts, answer emails, (many) other duties as assigned.
  • Treasurer – Manage financials, prepare budget, retain records, steer spending toward targets, attend monthly executive meetings, website posts, answer emails, other duties as assigned.
  • Membership Coordinator – Retain up-to-date membership list, mail correspondence and membership cards, attend monthly executive meetings, website posts, answer emails, other duties as assigned.
  • Communications Representative – Handle external matters, book event venues, postering, advertisement campaigns, approach sponsors, primary email responder, attend monthly executive meetings, website posts, other duties as assigned.
  • Access Chair – Monitor all climbing area access issues, uphold excellent relationships with landowners, organize clean and climbs, organize and execute trail maintenance, attend monthly executive meetings, website posts, answer emails, other duties as assigned.
  • Diversity Liaison – Social outreach, engagement of new climbers and underrepresented groups, organize and attend events, attend monthly executive meetings, website posts, answer emails, other duties as assigned.
  • Secretary – Attend monthly executive meetings, record and distribute meeting minutes, website posts, answer emails, other duties as assigned.

Executive members (with the exception of President) all have a vote in major Climb Nova Scotia undertakings and are expected to exercise their right to vote when called upon. All executive positions are a 1 year term, except for President, which is 2 years in duration.

Executive members are not paid (except in pizza), and typically spend up to 5 hours a week on CNS activities when there’s nothing happening, and more when we are busy. President tends to be busier.

If you want to help with CNS but aren’t interested in sitting on the board please let us know. There’s plenty to do and we can always use volunteers for specific projects!

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Toprope day recap

To save everyone from the onset of the winter blues, CNS thought that we’d remind you of a greener, brighter day from the summer when tank tops weren’t just for masochists and people could complain about too much sun and still be taken seriously.

On June 22, after more than few rain delays, 16 men and women came out to Sorrows End to get a day of rope climbing in without the hassle of lugging gear and setting anchors. Michelle Lloyd and a host of volunteers put on CNS Top Rope day to provide a safe, welcoming setting for people new (and old) to the sport of rope climbing to come out and try their hand at the fantastic cracks and face climbs at Sorrows End. Volunteers provided demonstrations on rope management, belay techniques and general safety awareness throughout the day to help everyone climb as safely as possible.

Sorrow's TR Day 2013, photo by Kerrie

Sorrow’s TR Day 2013, photo by Kerrie

The day was a rousing success. Everyone involved had a great time and the more experienced climbers had the pleasure of helping one of the participants get on their first ever climb on real rock, which is always fun to watch as it reminds the rest of us about why we were so excited to climb in the first place. Its experiences like these that help solidify Climb Nova Scotia’s reputation as being welcoming and inclusive to climbers of all experience levels.

Thanks again to Michelle Lloyd, all of the other volunteers and most importantly all of the climbers that came out and made it such a successful event!